husqvarna 2100cd chainsaw parts needed

I would start at Bailys.com they seem to have a lot of stuff for chainsaws I would call them though the website is kinda of a pain
 

Ebay. I have a 2100 too. Parts are fairly common but you have to keep looking for exactly what you want as the saws get older. 2100/2101 parts are pretty available.
 
Jack's Small Engine Parts online is a good source for chainsaw and weedeater type engine parts. Treated me right.
 



It's a great saw. 6.0 CI of power. I built this one out of parts back when I was selling and wrenching on Husky. Sawed out a small barns worth of lumber with it and a chainsaw mill, cut all sorts of firewood and cleared land with it. Mine is down right now due to a bad coil or flywheel, can't figure out which. That period was when Husky was at it's peak IMO. The XP is little better as far as refinements, but it's the same basis saw.
 
How's your woodruff key? Perfectly square? I'd assume the engine stops by grounding some turns in the magneto (?) with the operate switch
in the kill position. Might pull the end of that wire out in the open, touching nothing and see if it will run.......mounting spot could be cruded up
enough to ground out when switch is in the operate mode.
 

Way past that Mark. Ground wire has been isolated and checked for faults, plug wire checked, different coil tried, still no sparky. Flywheel has good "stick" on the magnet and there's no trigger module on a 2100. I suppose i could have gotten 2 bad coils, stinks if I did. They aren't cheap. And yeah I checked for ground between the case and jug too.
 
Assume the air gap is not the problem......Ok, what constitutes a bad coil? Coil is a piece of insulated wire soldered (supposedly) to some tag
wire (HV terminal and kill switch) or terminal. The varnish keeps the turns isolated from each other.

The core is laminated iron, also treated on the flat sides so that the lams don't short to each other. Separate vs single core lam makes for a
better coil. Possibly edges were not ground off properly and some filings from one are shorting to another. Volt per lam depends on the
number of lams and if one shorts, like turns the coil does all that it can to bring that voltage into spec, meaning that most all of the energy in
the coil will be consumed there and not available for external work.

On the kill wire, that's how you shut the thing down. You short out some turns and the coil does as stated above in an attempt to get the
volt/turn back up to what it should be and the output (HV) essentially falls to zero.

Otherwise, don't know and can't help since you apparently already covered the easy stuff.
 

Yup. I did the easy stuff Mark. I'm pretty sure it's 2 bad coils. I have a 165R brush cutter that uses the same engine. I guess I'm going to have to trade parts and see whats what.
 

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