Mounting toung jack revisited.

Adirondack case guy

Well-known Member
I pulled a Frank Sanatra and did it "my way". Flange on bottom, but at this point I can rotate the chassis 360, so no overhead welding.
Next question--- I welded it in the RH side veiwing it from rear. Is that right !!!!.
Just busting all you guys, HeHe.
Here are some pics of the chassis from today.
The body is 10' long and the pole of the chassis is 10' long and set 3' forward of the back of dump body and the rear hinge point of the body is at the rear, so I don't loose any dump heidth when dumping, thus the extension welded to the rear of the axle.I'm not finished with the rear extension. The square tube seting on frame will be cut to length and welded in to extend the pole back to the rear and I will add some diaginal braceing .
Bro in Wyoming promised me some warm weather in a couple of days, so I can get some paint on the chassis, but local weather watchers are predicting cold weather with acumilating snow tomarrow. Hope he comes thru.
Loren
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I look forward to reading about your projects , they are always really interesting . :)

In Australia the convention is to mount the jack or jockey wheel on the right side of the trailer drawbar , I suspect this is down to laziness as you then don't have to cross the drawbar to operate it when leaving the driver's side . Remember we drive on the ' wrong ' side down here .
All that said mounted on the right in the US might mean you have to circle the trailer to use it but it does mean that you are further out of the way of traffic in case you need to use it on the roadside .
 
I see you take advice about the same as you give it. I'm thinking about x'ing you off both lists! Looks like it's coming along well. That tongue should be strong enough. Hope that hoist system we talked about works out for you. And thanks for the chat today. Your phone go dead or you just hang up on me? Lol
 
No way it can hold the tongue up with the flange on the wrong side!! LOL
I have several of those jacks around the place and I do have a suggestion due to the load your going to be placing upon it. The snap ring on the pivot will not tolerate heavy usage and disengage at the most un-opportune moment. Other than the most light duty usages I remove them and weld a ring to retain the jack. They can cut from the proper sized pipe or made on a lathe of you have that capability.
 
I have at least 4 of them on trailers and have never had a snap ring let go, but they are not from HF. If that ever happened to me I would put a little clip between the holes in the ends of the snap ring.
 
Depends on which side of the tractor you dismount from. If you have a left hand cab door on your tractor now you will have to reach across the tongue to pull the pin to rotate the jack up for transport. Trailer looks nice. Wish I could build stuff as fast as you do.
 
BTW, I just tossed wood on this 3 wheel cart and thought again that you could add
"stock racks" to the trailer you've been using and get a big load. Also I got knit gloves from Harbor Freight, they fit either hand comfortably. Next time I'm there I'll look for more.
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One reason I can see to put the flange on top, is if you had a really deep frame, to make sure the top of the jack is high enough to let your knuckles clear when cranking.
 
Just had the snap ring give on our sprayer
jack. It was empty (1000 gal) crealed
about a week after I parked it.
 

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