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GT tactor front axle hole.

D

Dave Sherburne, NY

Member
I have a Case GT that started out with an 1 1/2" hole thru the cast axle and the brackets that holds it to the tractor. Now the holes are egg shaped and enlarged. I've been looking for a 1 9/16" reamer or some other method of enlarging the whole and lining them up, any ideas? Will a reamer work OK in cast iron. I've got a grandson who can make me whatever size pin I need to hold the axle on.
 
A high speed steel reamer will work. Run it dry at 100-150 r.p.m.'s. Cast iron is self lubricating when cutting.

Boring it on a mill would be better as you could retain the original location of the hole, but sometimes you have to use the tools that are available.
 
If you can bore it, best, or ream it, how about making a bushing to make back to original size, then in the future it would just take another bushing to fix it. Add a grease fitting to the pin with a hole out to the bushing from one end if it doesn't have one. Drill in from the end, then from the side drill in to meet the first hole, plan it so the second hole is in the middle of the bushing/bearing.
 
There was a grease fitting for the axle pin originally but I don't think it was ever used, still had a little plastic cap over it and a tough place to get to. I found on You tube what I think is a better way to make it last, and I will move the grease fitting to the center of the new pin where it will be clearly visible.

Thanks guys.
 
I've fixed the frame holes by welding a 1.5" shaft collar over the original hole, front and back. also, the frame is likely spread apart where the axle fits. Using a pin with a threaded portion that allows you to clamp it together will tighten that up. Sometimes that is enough to tighten it up. If not, boring and bushing the axle will. Of course using the shaft collar fix will require an longer than stock pin. I really like a welded tab with a bolt better than the stock pin with a bolt. That is what the earliest versions used from the factory.
 
A reamer is not the tool to use for this. A reamer is intended to be used in a slightly undersized,(1/64") round hole to bring it to a precision size. It is necessary that it be held straight, and very slowly fed through with plenty of lubrication. A reamer that size will take a very high torque motor to drive it, not something you can turn through by hand.

It would need to be bored in a mill, then resized with a bushing.
 
U mite go on ebay and find some good used parts reasonably that do not need remanufacturing?
 
Dave,
That is a common problem with those tractors. Reaming the hole wont fix the real problem. The metal on each side of the axle spreads out and allows things to move around and if you dont fix it a new pin wont be tight any longer than mowing the lawn once. There is a very nice fix for it that requires no machine work. Involves a hollow pin, a through bolt and thick washers that pulls everything back together. We have it on all of our Ingersolls. Link provided or have the grandson make you one. To your question, if you want to ream that hole you need to look at what is call a "Critchly" type adjustable reamer as they were designed for such work.
Case front axle pin fix
 
That's the fix I saw on U tube, and the fix I planned to use on my tractor. But an 1 1/2" pin will not work on mine because the axle and frame holes are almost 1 9/16 now so I figured to ream the holes to 1 9/16 and have my grandson make me a pin to fit. My other grandson was here tonight, and he works next door to a machine shop and will get their opinions tomorrow. If I call and remind him.
 
Dave,
Sorry my wording was kinda bad in that post. Fixing the hole is a prim and proper repair but for it to last you must also pull the sides back together either with the hollow pin and bolt or by other means. Outside of placing the tractor on a boring mill (grins) the adjustable Critchely type reamer will be the best choice, most well equipped shops have a set of them, if you were close you would be welcome to use mine.
 
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