Solder Wire, Soldering, etc.

Glenn F.

Member
I've successfully sweated a few copper pipes and soldered a few
wire connections but I really know very little about soldering.
For example, is the same solder wire used for copper pipe as
copper wiring? Does one use flux in both applications? I know
things have to be clean. I guess what I'm looking for is
soldering 101. Anything you folks can share would be beneficial
to me.

Thank you,
Glenn F.
 
Pluming requires acid core solder flux and lead free solder, electrical soldering requires rosin core flux and either lead free or normal 60/40 solder (if your lucky enough to find any). Like any type soldering, cleaning with wire brush or light sandpaper first is the best thing you could do. If you use youtube then there alot of good soldering 101 videos.
 
You can tell by the smell when it is heated. Acid core smells like acid, rosin core like rosin. There is also solid solder with no core.
 
The more lead in the number the softer, more tin harder. As I recall plumbing solder, solid core used with acid flux, or acid core as Rusty pointed out is 60-40, tin-lead content.

63-37 (tin-lead makeup)is a common rosin core solder used in electrical assembly in industry. It flows nice and smooth at lower temperatures, keeping high heat off delicate components, makes a good electrical joint, and cleans up nicely for the inspectors.

If a strong soldered joint is needed, 95-5 is used (with external flux) requiring higher heat to melt the extra tin.

Solder adheres best to clean, non-oxidized surfaces to assist the flux in ensuring a good bond. Surface can be smooth, or deliberately roughed up. Copper pipe used in plumbing, normally has the surface oxidation removed prior to assembly which leaves a slightly roughed up surface. Good joints are smooth and well "flowed". Cold, improper, unreliable joints, bad electrical conducting joints, are coarse, grainy, and lumpy. Heat is usually applied to the subject to be soldered with the flux on the solder wire if non cored, for electrical or in the case of plumbing pipe, the flux can be rubbed on the pipe connections prior to mating.

The solder is placed in contact with the subject and when at sufficient temperature, the solder will melt onto it and flow smoothly. Sometimes as an aid to get things going, the solder wire is applied to the heat source (soldering iron tip if using one, or wave the flame over it if brazing pipe) to improve the thermal conductivity between the iron and the subject, or preheat the solder with the flame, and then the fluxed solder wire is applied back to the subject as before and when the temp is right, will flow smoothly.

On pipe joints, you need enough but not too much. Practice makes perfect. I used to pull off a 2 circles of the pipe length of solder wire and when that was absorbed, working around the circumference of the joint as it melted, quit.

That's about what I know about it.
 
(quoted from post at 15:38:02 08/16/16) You can tell by the smell when it is heated. Acid core smells like acid, rosin core like rosin. There is also solid solder with no core.

Thank you Captain Obvious! Hee, hee.
 
(quoted from post at 07:53:48 08/16/16)
(quoted from post at 15:38:02 08/16/16) You can tell by the smell when it is heated. Acid core smells like acid, rosin core like rosin. There is also solid solder with no core.
Thank you Captain Obvious! Hee, hee.

Not obvious to me and I've been around both many times. Do you have a big nose, furry ears and a tail? LOL
 
As people have said acid core for pipes and rosin core for wiring. Back in the day when I was in the Navy I was micro mini qualified so I did a ton of soldering on some small circuit boards and components. Some of the stuff I did back in the day I could not longer do because I do not think I could see the stuff due it being so small
 
I use rosin core for building toys. There is a BIG difference in brands. The cheap stuff won't flow well.I had some from the farm supply store. The brand name was KT. It worked for soldering battery cables. Was not worth carp for toys. My joints always had solder balls. Solder would not flow.

Ace hardware is were I buy my solder. I can't remember the name. It flows very well and makes a nice joint.
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There are several kinds of soldering. Electrical requires a non-acid flux - usually rosin - for corrosion free joints. Plumbing usually uses an acid flux to "etch" the surface to improve bonding. Refrigeration and some other applications use a silver alloy solder that varies in content by application. Refrigeration uses a high silver content that also has a high melting point, and uses a fluorine based flux.
You can distinguish rosin core solder by the smell when heated. It will have an electrical quality to it - like a burning electrical component. Acid core will have a really piercing and pungent smell to it that will make you want to run the other way. Silver solder flux fumes are toxic, and should be avoided.
 
Big differences in solder brands/composition indeed!

I use Kester 60/40 rosin core exclusively for both electrical and toys. It's more expensive than generic hardware store solder. But it's worth the extra cost!
 
Cut it and if it is solid inside with no sign of a hollow core then it is for plumbing where you add flux from a tin .Prep pipe with wire brush apply flux by hand.
 
Solder balls means too cold or not enough flux. I have a 250W iron for battery cables and use solder by the bar dipped acid powder flux.

I can't say that in good faith looking at the quality of your work. Beautiful "toy"??????? Doesn't look like it to me. Looks like a couple of very necessary work implements with which you did a fabulous job of designing and constructing.

You have my curiosity aroused. What material are you soldering? Why solder vs brazing with brass or silver solder if non ferrous material? Did you do that work? Where did you get the idea/plans?

I think I just realized something. That 9400 IS a toy and that explains the solder. Nice job none the less. My current toy is the U.S. Constitution at 28", wooden kit. Finishing the main part of the ship and starting on the masts, sails, and rigging. Lots of fun modeling. Do you do trains too? I do N scale and my pride and joy is a tribute to Willie Nelson's " A Train Called the City of New Orleans" (an Illinois Central special) and the NOLA to Chicago 4'x8' layout.
 
Solder is plenty hot enough to turn it from a solid to a liquid. I hAve an industrial gun. Cheap brands do not 'flow' just stays in a puddle. I use Alphafry. It costs $18 a pound. The cheap KT solder is only about $8 a pound.

I have also used Oately and Johnson solder. Neither work as good as the Alphafry. The tiny joints I use Miniatronics solder. It is low heat and works very well.

I don't have a pattern for the toy blades. I just use photos from sales brochures.

There are two different blades in the photos. One is a four way movement. The other is a six way movement.

Each cylinder is hand made from seven parts. The tube and 90degrees hose fittings are soldered together.

I painted one blade today. I only build,restore farm toys.
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I salute you sir! Beautiful design and workmanship. If that isn't "Museum Quality" I'd like to know what is.
 

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