Hole in gas tank repair.

Auto parts stores used to sell gas tank repair kits, I would check with one of those online.
 
(quoted from post at 17:04:00 07/25/16) Can a hole deliberately and maliciously punched into a gas tank be permanently repaired with JB weld ?

NO---If possible, I would repair with Bolt/screw and gasket.
Sealed with "SealAll".
 
No, JB will eventually melt off. Use Seal All. If needed saturate a bit of cloth with Seal All if hole is big.
 
Richard AZ,

I'm guessing it's a metal tank first. I used JB weld on a dirty/rusty/crumpled corner of a tank in the lower half, while it was dripping gas, the JB tank goo is still working years after.

D.
 
I recently repair a leak on the plastic gas tank on my zero turn mower. It has a nut recessed into the bottom of the tank for mounting and it was oozing gas. cleaned and dried, applied JB weld and let cure over night, so far so good.
 
I've had pretty good luck with this stuff: http://www.polymericsystems.com/epoxies-adhesives/epoxy-putty-tapes/kneadatite-blue-yellow.htm
 
This stuff works if you can find a local supplier I have used it a few times with success.

http://www.laco.com/repair-sealants/oyltite-stik-/
 
I would be more inclined to dry it out and weld a patch on the hole and use a fuel tank liner such as Red Kote. Just to patch a small hole you might use some Red Kote with some fiberglass cloth to plug the hole and then line the inside. JB Weld doesn't do well soaked in gas.
 
I buy the large tubes of JB Weld because I use a lot of it--But not to seal a gas or oil tank.
Surface prep and cleaning is very important with using JBW and I tried it twice, on fuel tanks and it failed both times.
I guess some people have had success, but I can't.
 
I blew up a gas tank once. Self-preservation being a rather basic instinct, it was an experience I'd rather not repeat.

When someone talks about welding on a gas tank, I get about a hundred yards away with my fingers in my ears.
 
You dry one out to where you are sure there are no fumes and then stick a lit rag on a long stick in the tank to see if it will ignite to be sure. If you have removed the sending unit and leave the filler neck open it shouldn't contain the gas enough to actually explode. The fumes may ignite but will just burn. I completely cut the bottom out of a riding mower gas tank one time and welded a new piece of sheet metal on it. If it's recently had gas in it I usually rinse it out with lacquer thinner and run an air hose in the tank with less than 5 psi air pressure for two or three days before doing anything with the tank.
 
Well, The gas tank on my '69 1 ton sprung a leak about 4-5 years ago. When I pulled it out to replace it, there was a JB-weld patch on the bottom. I had the truck since '93, so the patch was on there then and had lasted about 20 years before it failed. As far as I know, it was a pinhole, not a big hole.
 
That said, If it was me doing the repair, I would coat the inside with some kind of sealer after the patch cured.
 
I bought a tractor that quit running shortly after. The previous owner had glued the float in the carb to the arm with JB weld. It had melted and fallen off.
 
When gas fumes ignite it blows a flame out a couple feet out the filler neck or the sending unit hole for a split second. It's not near as violent than you think. The first time I did it I used a 10' stick and reached around a corner of a building to do it. Kinda had a chuckle worrying about nothing.
 
A friend wire welded the tank for me. ( professional welder ) He did a beautiful job. Didn't go bang. Purged it with CO2 somehow. I didn't see it done. I had other errands to run. He checked it for leaks. None detected. Put it back on filled it with fuel. No leaks.
 
I have repaired many using an old soldering copper. They are not used much these days, but are very effective in repairing metal fuel tanks.
 
I have sealed up cracks on gas tanks with it. You have to really clean up the metal good before hand.
 
If I wanted a permanent fix then I would weld, braze, or solder. Anything else is just a temporary patch that may or may not hold long enough.

As others have pointe out the key is getting all the gas out of the tank and even more importantly the fumes.

Some rinse the tanks repeatedly with water and then fill with water to displace any residual gas fumes.

I have heard of running a hose from the tailpaipe of a running car (or tractor) to let the exhast hydrocarbons dry the fumes out of an emptied fuel tank using CO from the exhaust to do it.
 

yes.. have done it with variable success.. From a 50 year patch still holding, to not so good on a plastic tank that was wet...

jb weld has 3 rules.

rule 1.. surface must be clean
rule 2. surface must be clean
rule 3. surface must be clean..


when ever the surface was clean, dry, and clean,, its always worked very well. when I could not get to the area to clean it,, its been a throw of the dice,, ,sometimes good, sometimes not so good.
 

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