Hot Water Heater

dzc3

Member
I have very hard water and get a lot of lime in the bottom of my hot water heater. This stuff is about the size of small road rock. I try and work it out when replacing the lower element. My question is can I cut a "hand hole" in the side of the tank? How should I go about this and what problems should I expect. The curve of the tank will make this an interesting project.
 
(quoted from post at 04:21:35 07/01/16) I have very hard water and get a lot of lime in the bottom of my hot water heater. This stuff is about the size of small road rock. I try and work it out when replacing the lower element. My question is can I cut a "hand hole" in the side of the tank? How should I go about this and what problems should I expect. The curve of the tank will make this an interesting project.
think cutting a hand hole in the tank would be problematic with leaks and increased corrosion resulting. A better option, IMHO, is to install a water softener where the water comes into the house.
 
How frequently do you blow-down the tank? Is the debris too large to exit the drain valve? For myself, I would be extremely hesitant to cut into the tank to improve access. It is a pressurized system and since the total pressure would be psi x the area of the access panel, the final pressure against that panel could be considerable. Also, any lining would be compromised.
 
Thanks for the responses I understand the pressure issues on the access panel 40PSI time about a 4" hole. Just wondered how to do it. The water softener idea would work but never had one and really don't like the additional expense.
 
Have you tried using a shop vac and adapting a piece of 3/4 pvc to it then remove bottom element and suck out all you can. I do this annually with mine and it has worked great for me. Sort of a pain but it works and extends the life of the element.
 
Cutting into the tank will cause problems alot worse than you have now. Try replaceing the drain valve with a "full port" ball valve and npt to hose adapter. That will alow some of the rocks to exit while flushing tank.
 
replace the valve and flush yearly. i also got a curved lower element. these steps have ended our problems.
 
You should also change the anode rod, maybe every year in your conditions. Available from Home Depot.com, shipped free to your local store for pickup or pay the freight to your house.
 

I have cleaned the lime out of a number of 15KW commercial heaters. You will find that there are very few pieces of any size. The scale forms on the elements, and the curve of the rods limits the size of the pieces that fall off. Remove both elements, put a hose in the top one and flush the lime out of the bottom one. Raise it up off the floor a little if you need to in order to get a tub under it. Put a softener in. I used to sell and rent softeners to restaurants and they always loved them. Don't go to any of the big companies, buy one on line and put it in yourself. It is easy as falling off a log. Plumb it in just before the water heater.
 
NO WAY would I cut a hole ! Most of them are lined inside with plastic !
Mine was like yours several years back. I worked thru the bottom element hole with a shop vac with some smaller tubing duct taped to the vac hose. My element went bad because the lime was clear up to it.
I also removed the stupid cheapo drain valve and installed a full sized ball valve with a garden hose adapter on it. I try to drain off the bottom at least every year. I get a little out but not too bad.
 
That is an ASME pressure rated vessel, you should make NO modifications.

Why not get a softener?
 
#1 why do you want to heat hot water?? It is a water heater hate them being called a hot water heater.
That said I too have hard water and when I replace the lower element I use my shop vacuum and I have a piece of metal tube that I made to fit the end of the vacuum so I can break up and suck out he lime stone. Do that works well but it does take a bit of time doing it.
 
You probably have iron in the water, traditional softeners are designed to remove lime, you can get treatment for the iron also.
 

remove the elements,, lay heater on ground with holes down..

take a hose and spray nozzle and spray into fill and outlet holes... roll heater slightly to allow all the "rocks" to come out.

most heaters have glass lined tanks, so dont drop, dont hit, and dont cut holes... or your tank will very very very soon rust out.

I have to clean the farm water heater every time it burns a bottom element. Clean out 20 lbs of rock and flush, new element and good to go for 5 years or so. so far no leaks...
 
(quoted from post at 06:47:28 07/01/16) Thanks for the responses I understand the pressure issues on the access panel 40PSI time about a 4" hole. Just wondered how to do it. The water softener idea would work but never had one and really don't like the additional expense.
dcz3 we as well have very hard water with high iron, to the point of when we moved here 10 years ago the shower pressure was so low it was not useable.
Installed a softener and a new water heater and it was some of the best money we spent.
Toilet tank went from a red mucky rusty mess to clear and normal.
Over time shower pressure increased to what is now very useable and normal.
No more stains in the sinks and bathtub.
Clothes come out cleaner.
Dishwasher works better.
Less soap needed for both.
Noticeable difference in power bill, the reason being that when the build-up in the tank gets bad it has an insulating effect and the element thermostat thinks the water is colder than it is and it cycles more often.
Have you noticed the water is getting hotter and hotter no matter how much you turn down the temp?
Salt wise it costs us about $100.00 per year, I think we save more than that in power alone.
Another bonus with the soft water is your skin.
For years in the winter my hands would get so dry working with solvents and fuel that I could make a fist and all my knuckles would crack open and bleed, with the softener that has completely stopped.

Takes a little to get used to the soft water in the shower but once you have it you will notice real fast if you run out of salt.
We have a separate tap in the kitchen that does not go through the softener that we use for drinking and cooking water.

I do not sell softeners or know anyone who does, I am just trying to get across how much we like ours.
 
I'll vote for a water softener as well. Another option would be go to gas water heater, but that might not be an option. I have never had a problem with a water heater since putting in a gas water heater, and softener, and I never drain, and they last until they rust out, but the only one that rusted out was about 25 years old. Many shudder at the thought of gas water heaters, but I have yet to hear real evidence they are dangerous, and I know I have been using them for 30 years without issue. Sure saves me a ton of work and expense swapping elements and heaters.
 
Ya never have figured out why people want to heat hot water or why people pay $ for water by buying the 50/50 mix if antifreeze and water. $8 or so for the 50/50 stuff and maybe $10 for the straight stuff you mix your own water into
 
(quoted from post at 18:32:51 07/01/16) OLD you and I must be related in some way. People just do not realize what they are saying.
have a "hot water heater" for sure! Two in series, first receives water line from meter, second one receives hot water from the first. If not using too much hot water, the second one seldom does any work, just a insulated storage tank, but if high use, both go to work. I didn't design it, it was just there & works!
 
(quoted from post at 17:45:34 07/01/16) Ya never have figured out why people want to heat hot water or why people pay $ for water by buying the 50/50 mix if antifreeze and water. $8 or so for the 50/50 stuff and maybe $10 for the straight stuff you mix your own water into

It's called convenuence old,same reason people buy hamburger meat already ground instead of grinding it themselves like you. Besides,the jugs look cool.
Get to class on time next week and we will go over heating water that some would subjectivly consider hot (like without ice cubes).
 
Something you might try, quick and simple. Take the original drain valve out, replace it with a full flow ball valve, hard plumbed to the drain or outside.

Make it a habit to blow down the tank once a month. Open the valve fully and suddenly, repeat a few times to create some turbulence in the bottom of the tank.

This works best with a new install, or a freshly cleaned tank.
 
in the last couple of years they have been phasing in new style drains that are straight out ball valve with hose connections
 
Just get a new water heater. Never heard of a hot water heater tho. If the water is already hot, why heat it?
 
(quoted from post at 04:18:08 07/02/16) Just get a new water heater. Never heard of a hot water heater tho. If the water is already hot, why heat it?

I used to work on hot water heaters in restaurants all the time. 140 degrees in, 180 degrees out. They are called booster heaters.
 
I wouldn't be too quick to act as site grammarian and spell check if your posts are somewhat flawed.
 

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