Battery Corrosion Inhibitors

Ted in NE-OH

Well-known Member
Do the red and green felt pieces that you put under the battery connectors really work to stop battery terminal corrosion on tractors??
 
Lately I have been using Fluid Film to spray on the connectors. It's only been 6 months so it's to soon to tell but they still look clean.
 
I actually think the felts wick moisture under the connections and make them corrode worse. I just have been using Fluid Film on battery cables now for close to twenty years. It works as good as anything else I have tried. It is way better than the "Terminal Protectors" That are the red sticky spray. They do little or nothing.

I first got to using it on flat battery studs on lawn mower batteries. We had a lot of mowers sold along the Mississippi river. The high humidity made the cables corrode badly and would even ruin the copper cable end. They would corrode the end back inside the insulation. So you would have an end that looked good but actually was restricting the current from the battery. Been using Fluid Film ever since. It is easy to spray around the cables/terminals after they are installed unlike grease that you can not get real good coverage under the cable end.
 
The felts are a waste of money. Buy good quality batteries and don't use those bolt on battery lugs. Like already said. coat with grease and you won't have any problems.
 
I cleaned my terminals real good and for a change put some of that red spray on terminal protector. After a few months I noticed that I was having a problem cranking the engines. I took the terminals apart and the red stuff had gotten between the posts and the connections. I don't use it anymore. Wire brushes aren't good for the terminals, use water and baking soda instead. It neutralizes acid and cleans the terminals.

Mark
 
I don't have much faith in them.

Typically, a good, healthy, clean battery, coupled to a properly functioning electrical system, won't have a lot of corrosion problems.

If the battery is borderline, it will tend to produce more gas, which contaminates the top with acid. An electrical system that has a drain will cause the battery to partially or completely discharge when parked. Then when it's started, the charging system will try to "fast charge" the battery, causing it to gas. So will a charging system that is over charging, or the necessity to regularly use a battery charger.

If either of the posts are broken loose from the case, acid will seep up into the connection.

Oil, dirt, coolant, anything settling on top of the battery encourages corrosion.

Over filling the battery is a sure way to corrode the terminals. If the caps are removable, and you've been filling the cells to the bottom of the split ring, try letting the level drop to just where the plates are covered. This is important for off road vehicles, or anything that rides rough. The splashing gets acid on top of the battery, which finds it's way to the terminals.

Good, factory made cable ends are more corrosion resistant than the clamp-on replacements. Those are really for emergency use, not intended for permanent installation.
 
This worked for me on my 1952 Chevy pickup with the 6 volt battery located under the passenger side floorboards. Had trouble with corrosion particularly with the hold down frame. I used some rubber isolators under the hold down fame on the mounting studs and more on the top before I placed the nuts on. Two years now and no corrosion. I believe this stopped a small eddy current that was causing corrosion.
 
Gun grease is about the best thing going.been using it for over 30 years. I coat the post then push the clamp righ tdown over the grease.
Now if you go to the batteries like my semi uses with the 3/8th's stud on top you will not clean those in about 5 years. I never need to clean them on the truck till I replace the battery. I have been using them on everything I can get then in and don't clean terminals. They start in the winter too.
 
yes, if you soak them in a good sticky oil like chain saw bar & chain oil. Remember, the felt serves no purpose other than as a wick to hold protective oil. around the post and cable clamp.
 
I use them along with battery terminal protector spray and have no problems with corrosion. I use to use grease but after on for several years they are cover in dirt and crud. The protective coating dries and crud doesn't stick to it.
 
The thing to remember is that corrosion on the outside of the terminals, where you can see it, doesn't hurt a thing. It's corrosion where the post and terminal come in contact that you have to worry about. It's very common to have a terminal that looks good on the outside but is in bad shape on the inside. I like to put a dab of anti-seize compound on battery posts. It prevents corrosion, but unlike grease or terminal spray it's conductive.
 
There is a grease that you can use that is conductive its called NO-OX-ID "A Special" it is an electrical grease and stops corrosion.
 
I'll second the "No-Ox." Electricians at work gave me a squeeze bottle of it for the main lugs on my breaker panel. So far, I've only used it on battery terminals!
 

Don't overfill. Don't over charge. Don't tighten battery clamps with one wrench which ruptures the seal around the posts. Strap down so the battery doesn't bounce.
 

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