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Rounded of bolt heads on intake manifold of '97 F-150

B

bjr

Member
I'm posting here because it's a tool related problem. I'm pulling V-6 engine out of a '97 Ford F-150 cab forward design and need
to remove the upper intake manifold (to gain access to inject wires and fuel line connections). Have all but two bolts out and
have round off the heads on the remaining two. I've been using a 8 mm six point socket. Now, what are my alternatives here. Is
there a better socket design I should try such as the spline socket. Or should I try, maybe a dremel tool to grind off the heads
of the screws as they're down between the aluminum runners of the manifold and one on the back side under the cowling area. I've
measured the bolt diameter and it's 0.227", that's between a M5 and M6, so is this a special bolt built by Ford or what?
Frustrated. bjr
 
If you can gain a straight shot to the bolt head take a hammer and beat on it until it swells up enough to make the socket hold better. Also the hammering effect helps loosen them.
I have also driven the next smaller size onto rounded off bolts.
 
A 5/16" is very slightly smaller, only by .003", but every little bit helps. Like Mike says, mushroom them out a little if possible. Also grind the bevel off the end of the socket so you get maximum contact. A new name brand 6 point socket is your best choice.

I would only cut the head off as a last resort, and only on one side. With the shank of the bolt still in the manifold it might not lift off.
 
I am not a Ford man but if the bolt goes into an aluminum part it will help to sharply strike on the bolt head. Many times I have only been able to get a steel bolt out of an aluminum part by first beating on the bolt.
 
For that type of work I use 6 point sockets, if that don't work I try the next size down in metric.
I just did that with a 9/16 nut that was rounded over. I had to drive a 13 MM socket on but got the not off.
 
(quoted from post at 10:09:07 04/18/16) I'm posting here because it's a tool related problem. I'm pulling V-6 engine out of a '97 Ford F-150 cab forward design and need
to remove the upper intake manifold (to gain access to inject wires and fuel line connections). Have all but two bolts out and
have round off the heads on the remaining two. I've been using a 8 mm six point socket. Now, what are my alternatives here. Is
there a better socket design I should try such as the spline socket. Or should I try, maybe a dremel tool to grind off the heads
of the screws as they're down between the aluminum runners of the manifold and one on the back side under the cowling area. I've
measured the bolt diameter and it's 0.227", that's between a M5 and M6, so is this a special bolt built by Ford or what?
Frustrated. bjr
Click to expand...
ust did a google search and there is a 5.5 mm socket out there. Maybe that's what it is.
 

Also known as a twist socket...

https://store.snapon.com/Twist-Impa...Fractional-Metric-1-4-drive-22pc-P644174.aspx

I have the 1/4" set and 3/8" set plus the Irwin set... They can be worth there weight in gold. They have saved me hundreds in the time they have saved me...


To the poster BTDT when I see they are stuck I put a 1/4" air gun on them and rattle them good in both directions when I see I am getting no were I rattle them at a low setting with a 3/8" air gun when i see I am getting no were I turn up the power they are coming are breaking... So far I have never broke one what you will find is the bolt shank is corroded to the intake. I don't even wont to talk about the outcome if the bolt head breaks off.. If it does I make a call "you will need a intake cuzz I am getting ready to break it all to ell to get if off"...

I have broke a hand full of Ford intake bolts off on different Ford engines and I never got to the point they were close to snug... I could not see a thing wrong with them When that happens I install ALL NEW BOLTS because it will happen on another bolt :evil:
 
I have not had much luck with the spline sockets, seems most of the time a stripped bolt is too stripped for the splines to grab, maybe if the corners are barely rounded then it might work.

You can get those twist sockets, extractors pretty much anywhere. They are basically the female version of an easy-out. I have a set of std and metric, shallow and deep and they work good most of the time. I always tap them on firmly and use a hand ratchet to remove. If the bolt head is really stripped or soft then it might work.
 
Oh, and a couple other things, when you get the upper intake manifold off, look in every other intake port and you will see a circular boss with a hole in it (orifice). Those holes will probably have carbon gunk on them, you need to clean those out. Those are the EGR ports for each cylinder. When they stop up, usually one or two of them will stay open and all the egr flow will be directed to that cylinder and cause a misfire. Also check the intake manifold runner control (IMRC) linkage at the back of the lower intake on each side. There are little white plastic clips that hold to the linkage rods onto the IMRC butterfly shafts and they are known to break. You can find the clips at the dealer or most auto parts stores.
 

Good catch it would pay to replace those clips new are old... I would go after the heater hoses also they are a PITA even with the intake off...
 
To all that replied: Thank you ever so much, as all the suggestions were, very helpful. Yesterday I borrowed a small angle head die grinder with a smaller cut-off wheel and ground off the bolt head, and, 15 minutes later the manifold was off and the cut of bolt shank was removed with a small set of Vice Grip style pliers. The remaining fuel lines and wire harness clips were released and the engine remove without any further problems. It's setting on the floor just in front of the truck now. That was the culmination of six days of effort. Again thank you. bjr
 
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