*Another* question for Mr. Billy Shafer

CenTex Farmall

Well-known Member
I'm working on a new-to-me Lincweld 225 with Onan which I believe is a CCK. I haven't heard it run yet. It spins up ok on 24v but no pop, not even a try. Compression is there but I haven't checked it.

The spark appears to be weak. I cleaned and set the points at .020. I changed out the odd ball plugs for two good used ones I have. I pulled the flywheel and polished the mag lamination ends.

I'm showing about 10K ohm between the two plug leads, is that in the ballpark? How much compression should I get on a test?

I have an 4kw Onan generator, also unknown (was given to me) that is an OCCK. Would that engine bolt up to the welder if the one on it can't be revived? The welder is an earlier one and I'm not sure if it has a tapered crank or not. Would the OCCK have a tapered crank or a flange? Will the OCCK run at 3K RPM?
 
10K sounds about right.I will have to get the test manual out. Rarely see a bad coil. If it has been sitting awhile. You should check the carb. Make sure the needle and seat are operating. Choke does have to be fully closed on start up.

Compression should be 100-120. Valves should be checked. Intake .007 Exhaust .016.

Generator engines have a tapered shaft. Welder engines have a flat shaft. The 4.0 engine would need some internal items changed to get to 3600 RPM.
 
Dribble a little gas into the carb when cranking. That should tell you if it is a fuel or ignition problem.
 
Billy, I can't comment on the coils but I worked at Lincoln 41 years. I'm pretty sure the Onans used a tapered shaft. The Wisconsin driven Weldanpowers had a straight shaft. It's been a long time since those were phased out, though.
 
I've got 90 lbs of compression on both cylinders. At this point I was just pouring a splash of fuel into the carb throat rather than use the tank. I tried both with choke closed and open. Throttle is opening and functional.

Still no noise. I tried a different known good condenser and no change. Perhaps the flywheel magnets have gotten too weak over time. Usually if something will turn I can make it run. I may not win on this one!
 
You have compression, which means valves and rings are working.

The ignition on mine is battery, is yours a magneto?
 
Yeah, this one has a "waste spark" type magneto and the points are in a box on top the engine. It's an earlier one. Lincoln sent me the schematics based the generator frame number and the prints are from 1967. It also has pulley for rope starting.

Whomever used it last had it cabled for a single battery so I'm not sure how they got enough rpm to start but the cables had obviously been on there a long time.

What sidelined it is that somehow the rheostat for the fine control got broken; the pieces were in a baggy with the machine. Otherwise than the battery hookup change the wiring hasn't been altered. Even if it ran poorly, if I knew for sure it would weld I could simply set it up to operate off of a pto or belt drive.
 
That is true. They used what I call a plastic point rod. They will wear to one side.Most of the time you can file them flat and reset the points.
 
You could be right Mike. I was thinking CCK used on the Miller welders. Just scraped two that had flat shafts. If I had the model and serial number. I could get the build sheet. Which tells what it left the factory with.
 
That hadn't occurred to me but it makes sense; I already have points that trigger at the proper time and the system is simple enough. I will think about that. Good idea.
 
Here is a link to a 4 pack coil, works for 4 cylinders with wasted spark, use half.

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ign-4-four-tower-coil-pack/
 
Hello Cen Tex Farmall,

Just hit the points up with a file first. Clean the points by drawing clean paper through them a few times, put pressure on the paper as you do that. You might get lucky..........

Guido.
 
I did break out my points file and give them a dusting off. I checked across them with the old ohmmeter and all showed well! The paper idea is good!
 

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