husqvarna chainsaw nightmare

ztrmower

Member
i know this is not quite correct topic but ready to pull what hair have left out. husqvarna 350 chainsaw came in few months back to get going, just now getting to unit who nows when last ran hate these type projects first place . any way saw i got to run only on idle and just bogs on throttle response. took carb out total junked up, waste time try clean that so pitched it threw on new carb, new fuel lines. guess what did not gain da?? thing. also removed spark arrest to make sure that was not issue no help. still as if not done anything. what am i not seeing. compression fine nice spark, starts easy just will not stay run or has no throttle. by passed fuel tank and ran off my testing tank same thing. think new carb has issue,cause still think its fuel related cause choke makes diff. anybody see what i am not
 
I had a Poulan that would run, but not rev like it should. I found the exhaust slots where muffler mated to the cylinder were clogged. Slots were only about size of a screw driver flat blade tip
 
My first thoughts too is to remove the muffler and look at the ports. Had a lawn boy do that.
 
There is an anti spark screen in the muffler. That is the first thing that gives trouble on a new saw. They plug up with carbon and won't let the saw revive up.
 

Has that one got an intake boot or a block? Look at it either way. Flywheel key sheared or mangled? Try a different plug? New carb probably means a Zama, is it set right? I had a brand new one with the gaskets in the pump side reversed. Bogging usually means exhaust or timing if it's not the carb. The muffler might look clear but might be clogged inside.
 
Had to install a new piston and jug on a 55 rancher one time and had the same problem. After much head scratching I found the new base gasket was partially covering the carb-fuel pump vacuum port from the crankcase. Opened up the gasket no more problems.
 
My next door neighbor bought a brand new Husqvarna chain saw about a year and a half ago. This POS has been in the shop the majority of the time he had it. It always takes him 1/2 hour to start it and after running for 10 mins it quits and will not run again for quite a while. He tried to return it, but they said he had it too long. Yeah, it was in your shop the majority of the time. On the other hand, my Dolmar 510 runs like a champ and starts easily, both saws bought around the same time. This Dolmar might be the best product I have ever bought in my life..
 
The guys below have about covered all the mechanical stuff to check. If you still don't get it running, I'd suspect a faulty ignition unit. I have seen the pulse hole for the carb plugged several times over the years by buggered up intake gaskets as mentioned below, so make sure you check that out.
 
I have a small husky saw that I couldn't get to run. I took it in and the mechanic said it had an air leak. He said he could fix it but it could cost more than the saw was worth. I brought it home and tore it down on the way back together I found a split tube. Parts list called it a impulse coupler, about two dollars. Runs better than it has lately. I appreciated him not spending a lot of time on it He probably would have found it quicker, but I told him not to spend too much on it Tommy
 
Hi, I know the hair pulling syndrome! Mine had a smll hole in fuel line. Wouldn't rev up. ED WILL
 
Heads up also check the chain drive socket. Its weird but our wore out and would run for a bit then the chain would slip out of the groove and not spin. Try and run the saw without the chain/bar. If the problem persists then its obviously nots that.
 
Run both adjustment screws out TWO TURNS and go leaner from there.
Be absolutely sure carb is getting impulse!
 
to check the crank seals take off the clutch & stuff until you can see the bare case. Start the saw & turn it on its side with the crank pointing straight up. With an eyedropper or straw drop gasoline on the crankshaft at the seal. If it revs up on its own, the seals are bad.
 
Mike M and Virgil point out the exhaust ports- a 2 stroke minor maintenance problem inherent in design that gets overlooked many times. Carbon buildup on upper edge of exhaust port is about like what a 4 stroke would get when cam lobes get worn down- nearest analogy I can think of to explain the very narrow fluid transfer time that results. Old 2 stroke dirt bikes with premix had this problem and the riders knew it, decoking was a common procedure, my old Suzi T500 ran better, faster after the decoke and baffle clean, final adjustment of oil pump. Tree trimmer I know does annual decoke and exhaust check on his saws- some have been starting and idling but lack of cutting power normally expected means first check spark plug, then exhaust. RN
 

I don't quite understand why some brands are considered bulletproof and others not so good. ALL the brands buy their carbs, ignitions, spark plugs, fuel hose from the same small group of vendors. And if you read small engine forums, 80% of the problems are in those parts they buy from the vendors, not the piston, cylinder, crank assembly, that the OEM actually makes and assembles.

So why is a Stihl, Dolmar, or other high end saw considered as superior to a consumer grade saw that is using the same carbs, ignitions, fuel hoses as the pro stuff? I figure you could get 40 hours of use out of the consumer saw before things started going south. But I doubt most peeps with a consumer saw gets to 40 hours before they can't get it start or run correctly. That's been my experience, yet I see the Stihl guys claiming they can leave the saw with gas in it for a year and it starts on the first pull. Everytime.

It's like those Dillion fools on the reloading forums.....
 
The difference is the quality of the parts and the age of
the saw. Most of the parts are made by the same vendor.But
they are not the same exact part. Saws sold in discount
stores have cheaper lower quality parts.

Newer saws have to meet tougher clean air standards.
That's why the carb will plug up faster when left sitting
with fuel in it than a old saw will.

I have two generators. One was made in 1974. The other one
in 2000. In 2014 we had a storm on Father's day. My 1974
generator had not ran in 10+ years. I put gas in it and it
started on the second pull. My other generator made in
2000 last ran in 06. It would not start without cleaning
the carburetor. I had drained it completely in 06.
 

Like tractorguy says, it's quality of components and assembly, plus design. Some saws are simply better designed from the start and are going to start better, run better, last longer. "New" does not equal "better". And most lines had consumer grade saws, better and top grade saws. A Stihl 011 is a far cry from a Stihl 041 or 028. Huskys 136 was a different animal than the 266. A Poulan 3416 is a bottom of the line consumer saw while a 4200 was a pro saw that will last and last. But people rarely want to pay for a top of the line saw. I don't even look at pro saws anymore, not the new ones. I buy the older, reliable saws that parts abound for. I just resurrected an 041 the other day and have a JD 65 (Echo 650) almost done. There's a Pioneer P-50, McCulloch 7-10 and Sachs 143 waiting for a chance to cut wood too. Quality parts, intelligent design, quality assembly. There isn't a bargain basement saw out there that will still be cutting wood 50 years later like my Mac 300.

That's why people brag or rag on a particular model from a particular maker.
 
I have two Dolmar saws - a 101 and a 35. They really are the finest crafted pieces of machinery I have seen. Those things can run screaming in my hands all day and I don't once feel a vibration. They will cut through anything without bogging and always start on the third pull. I'd recommend one to my dead grandmother.
 
(quoted from post at 05:42:16 02/01/16) I have two Dolmar saws - a 101 and a 35. They really are the finest crafted pieces of machinery I have seen. Those things can run screaming in my hands all day and I don't once feel a vibration. They will cut through anything without bogging and always start on the third pull. I'd recommend one to my dead grandmother.
I have worked on chainsaws for over 50 years and, for my time and money, I prefer Dolmar/Makita over any.
 

I have 3 Sachs Dolmars. Outstanding saws, but under rated. Another under rated but good saw is Echo. They are put together with a different mindset than the German saws, but they are good, sold saws.
 
(quoted from post at 15:19:57 02/01/16)
I have 3 Sachs Dolmars. Outstanding saws, but under rated. Another under rated but good saw is Echo. They are put together with a different mindset than the German saws, but they are good, sold saws.

I will have to agree with you about Echo. Some people argue that Echo is better then D/M and I just remind them that our local Home Depot sells Echo but, if you rent a chainsaw, you will get a Makita.
 

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