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JL Ray

Member
For the last year and half I have been removing broken bolts in a new to me way. At work we have some big blow mold machines that break bolt from time to time. Who hasn't ran into one of those? They are normal on the head area of the machine where the bolts are anywhere from .75 to 1.5 in diameter and its in steel that's 350 to 400 degrees. Always grade 8 Allen caps. Previously we got the hammer and punch out or welded a smaller bolt or nut to the broken bolts. We have found with great success that the best way to remove them is with a air operated tool engraver. Yea the little thing you used to engraver your name on your hand tools. Quick and easy to use even upside down like we normally are. The only issue that you need to watch out for is hitting the thread itself. The electric unit also, work just not as good.
 
Oh how I miss working indoors on factory
equipment! Often stuff broke like that I
would just touch with a left handed center
drill or old endmill and spin it out. In
the world of tractors and equipment
nowadays tho it seems every stuck bolt
requires a far bit of heat and torque to
remove. Might be a good trick on internal
engine bolts especially as no chips would
be made.
 
I am gonna try that next time, I never would thought that would work. Now I can't wait to break a bolt off LOL.
 
I will pass another one on. I was having an awful time removing the 5/8 carriage type bolts that hold the center to the rim on Ford 2n with Hat rims. I tried pb blaster and a BFH and didn't have much luck. I tried my air hammer/chisel with a pointed tool in it and it drove them all out slick as a whistle.
 
There do the same thing that a little electric engraver does when you engrave your name on your hand tools. It's just sir operated. They both have a harden point which vibrates and that is what make the engraving marks.
 
Hello Dr sportster,

An air powered scraper will work just fine! An air hammer with a pointed tip is a little better though,

Guido.
 
I take it they're shearing and not breaking from torque? I used to work in motor manufacturing. We used hi-temp copper based anti-seize on the threads of the rotor casting molds. Not easy to twist off a 3/4 socket head.
 
If your Grade 8 bolts are shearing, you may need to upgrade to Titanium Grade 11 bolts.

Doc
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Q and A time. Poppa Noel is correct, also know as pencil engraver. Mike(NEOhio): The bolts are breaking from being stretched. The day of my first post we broke 19 of 24, 3/4-10 bolts. The other 5 were stretched and thrown out. Also being we are inside, yes no rust and yes copper coated. This area of the machine is taken apart every two or three weeks. Dr sportster: Yes. Dr. Walt; We know we could make this area stronger but have elected to leave it as is since its an area that is easiest to work on and can be removed if needed.
We are the typical blow molder. We have a job come along that are outside the machines capabilities, so we build something on to make the job run. This weeks break was due to a processor person trying to start the machine before it was up to heat and having a program set up wrong. This area where we broke could have saw 7,500 pounds of hyd pressure (this is what our safety's are set at) from the plasticize HDPE material on a 16 inch diameter surface plus they compounded the issue with a 18 inch hydraulic cylinder with 2500 psi pushing on it from up top. Something had to give.
 
The grade 11 titanium bolt is not comparing to a grade 8 steel bolt it is just a grade of titanium. Grade 11 is corrosion resistant and an alloy.
 

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