Log splitter oops (pic)

Old560

Member
Read the post below thought I'd post a picture of my splitter a year ago.
a212009.jpg
 

The control valve is mounted to the frame rather than the cylinder/ram on my splitter. I have not had a problem with bending the ram.....lol
 
When the ram is on the cylinder shaft, knotty crooked grain wood will put side pressures on the wedge and cause the wedge to twist which in turn bends the shaft. When I split wood with my stationary wedge splitter, you can see the wedge twisting and turning as it tries to split the tough stuff.
 
There's no U-bolt just a pin in the back of the cylinder and a pin on the front of the ram. I straightened it but the first log it went through it bent again the Anvil was loose ended up replacing the cylinder cheaper that way. This year I'm having to replace the engine. I split between 15 and 20 cords a year
 
Looks like your wedge is guided pretty well. Can you add vertical pin connection from the rod end to the wedge? If you have enough play to let the cylinder wiggle a little on both ends it will put less load on the rod. I put undersize pins on both ends of mine to give it a little flex room.
 
That's the way mine is.

I never thought that if the wedge was on the ram it could bend the ram.
 
I agree with the ubolt idea. You need something like a large ubolt or welded strap to hold the front end of the cylinder steady. It will need to be pretty beefy to hold things steady. The way it is now the only thing is a front and rear pin.... that's more than 4 feet (assuming 24 inch cylinder) with no support in the middle and many tons of force between those two pins. If you hit a knot and stop the cylinder that force gets can get transferred sideways and bend your cylinder.
 
If that wedge can move that much it is wore out. That wedge should be kept tight enough for it slide but not wobble on machine.
 
That works fine for splitter that is used laying down but doesn't work if you stand splitter up. That flat surface on ground works better.
 

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