2003 gmc 2500hd 4x4 ABS sensor

All,

I am attempting to clear the ABS light on the dash, the code reader says front right sensor circuit.

Am I foolish to replace just the sensor ($65)? I was told that the ABS ring and sensor is part of the hub, and it may also be the culprit ($165).

Truck has a few miles shy of 300K. My goal is to sell this truck. My thinking is with that many miles, a fresh bearing is also a decent selling point.

D.
 
Fixing that light in the dash to not light will make it not "on" too...Just sayin'...at 300K it aint gonna matter for too long anyhow.
 
Is the sensor and the ring clean. Mud and crap can effect how they work. Begin with giving the sensor a good cleaning with some brake cleaner, the ring as well , if its rusty that will affect the performance, a dremel tool or emery cloth can clean up the ring. Just an idea, we used to run into this at the shop I worked at,sometimes cleaning was all that was needed.
 
Michael,

That particular sensor had a small dab of grease on the pickup end. Looked clean to my untrained eye.

The toothed ring looked silver, no rust that I saw. However, I ddi not witness the entire diameter, just looked into the small hole and saw some clean teeth.

D.
 

On the last one I replaced the sensor did not fix it :shock:
No problem I will replace the hub it comes with a new sensor take the new sensor off and install the new/used put the new sensor in the original box and send it back for credit...

The new/used sensor would not fit the replacement hub :evil: I was stuck with it... You could swap the sensors if the part number is the same and see if the issues follows the sensor...
 
The bearings in the hubs of my 4x4 were bad kept coding out abs sensors. Truck also has a abs sensor on drive shaft and mice had chewed insulation off wires to it and road salt got to wires. Had to put new harness on it.
 

BTW If I buy a hub/brg asy its OEM are MOOG... I have had my share of the other junk I leave it for the poor folks that get stuck with the issues they bring.
 
If the bearing is loose, the ring will hit the sensor and ruin it. If the bearing is tight and no evidence of the sensor rubbing, the hub should still be good.
 
If those are the ones that slip into the knuckle, rust can make the sensor difficult to remove because it tends to crush the plastic sensor body. May just be the sensor, but check the hub bearing for looseness too.
 
Ah the anti stop brakes ! I really don't like them !

Dodge really had a stupid system on the 1996 Ram 2500. Unhooked the module to disable it and turn off the lights and the brakes worked better than they ever did.
 
(quoted from post at 16:44:30 11/24/15) All,

I am attempting to clear the ABS light on the dash, the code reader says front right sensor circuit.

Am I foolish to replace just the sensor ($65)? I was told that the ABS ring and sensor is part of the hub, and it may also be the culprit ($165).

Truck has a few miles shy of 300K. My goal is to sell this truck. My thinking is with that many miles, a fresh bearing is also a decent selling point.

D.

The ABS on my 2001 gave trouble. I pulled the fuse and put black tape over the dash lights. Best thing I ever did to that truck. On dry surfaces, the truck will STOP in a much shorter distance than with functioning ABS.
 
A lot of those GM trucks had recalls on those sensors, rust would build up under the sensors and raise them up enough to cause the problems. I found a tack puller worked the best to gently pry them out while twisting them, then stuff a small piece of paper towel in the whole and grind the rust off with a red twist lock disc in a die grinder, prime and paint the boss around the whole, remove paper towel, clean any rust off the sensor, stuff a screw driver full of grease down the hole and reassemble. We did a slug of those and they fixed them all unless they had a loose bearing or a broken wire. Broken wires can be hard to find.
 
swap the sensor with the one on the right front and clear the code, see if the problem moves to the right front. if so, bad sensor. also you can check the sensor with a dvom meter, if i remember set the meter to ac voltage and spin the wheel. you should get a voltage reading from the sensor.
 
Yes Hobo, like the complete lower A frame assy. I bought a couple of years
ago online for my wifes Impala. $80 bucks each, with ball joints already
installed. No grease fittings-drivers side has already failed.
 
X2 If this is the problem, it should also be causing the antilocks to activate when you are tying to stop on a good surface. You will feel it in the brake pedal, and hear it. I have fixed a dozen vehicles where this was the problem, and I am not a mechanic.
 
(quoted from post at 21:45:12 11/25/15) Yes Hobo, like the complete lower A frame assy. I bought a couple of years
ago online for my wifes Impala. $80 bucks each, with ball joints already
installed. No grease fittings-drivers side has already failed.

I just rebuilt the front end on a 88 toyota 4X4 for a customer that brought a kit off ebay for $89... I had to mill out the bolt holes for the lower ball joint the Pittman arm did not fit and while I was greasing one of the upper ball joints it jacket the ball/stud out of its socket.... I knew better than to even go there :(

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-...nly-To-3-31-89-/320886215418?fits=Make:Toyota
 
Which test is failing? If the light comes on before moving the vehicle it will be a sensor or wiring problem. If the light comes on when the vehicle gets to about 6 - 8 mph before it fails it a problem with sensing the tone ring correctly.
 
Is it a 'sensor circuit' code, or 'signal missing' code? Very distinct difference. GAB is talking about the recall GM did for a number of years on trucks. Rust would build up under the sensor and push it away from the tone ring causing the signal to drop out usually about 5 to 7 mph causing unwanted ABS activation. You can test the sensor with an ohm meter. the resistance should be between 800 to 1400 ohms.
 

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