Garage Insulation

So got a bunch of R-12 batt insulation cheap , have 4 inches lose in it now , so go across the loose stuff ? paper side up to the roof or down to ceiling ? Just want beef it up a little , so I can do more stuff in garage in winter.
the spacing is all over the board , suppose to be 24 inches , it's NOT , builder was pretty cheap
Thanks Wayne
 
Paper down only if you put in multiple slices throught the paper to let out the humidity. Or, better yet, pull the paper off. If you don't, the humidity will build up in the loose insulation.
 
I was told to never use crafted, paper, insulation in attic. I would remove the paper for attic insulation. I pay $.50 per cubic ft, that's 12 inches deep, for someone to blow my attics with fiberglass. You can't buy insulation that cheap, not to mention there are no gaps like there will be using batts and I'm doing any work.
 
The paper always goes toward the interior of the building, regardless of whether the insulation is in the walls or ceiling. Don't remove it, cut it or any other such nonsense; it's there for a reason.

The paper is intended to serve as a vapor barrier so moisture from the warm, humid interior doesn't condense in the cooler insulation. Vapor barrier isn't as important for attic insulation because most attics are ventilated well enough that any moisture in the insulation will vent to the outside. (That's why Tyvek wrap has replaced tar paper for sealing exterior walls: Tyvek lets moisture escape.)
 
(quoted from post at 04:33:51 11/13/15) The paper always goes toward the interior of the building, regardless of whether the insulation is in the walls or ceiling. Don't remove it, cut it or any other such nonsense; it's there for a reason.

The paper is intended to serve as a vapor barrier so moisture from the warm, humid interior doesn't condense in the cooler insulation. Vapor barrier isn't as important for attic insulation because most attics are ventilated well enough that any moisture in the insulation will vent to the outside. (That's why Tyvek wrap has replaced tar paper for sealing exterior walls: Tyvek lets moisture escape.)

Cutting the paper when installing over existing insulation is not nonsense it is necessary.
 
>He already has loose insulation.

Yes, but laying batt insulation over existing blown insulation isn't going to work very well; too many gaps. Better to scoop out the loose insulation between the ceiling joists, lay down the batt against the ceiling and drag the blown insulation back over the batt. It's a lot more work, but blown insulation will fill up any gaps in the batt insulation, plus it will cover the ceiling joists.
 
You take backer off anytime your laying insulation over the old insulation. When I built our house in the late 70's a foot of insulation in attic was the standard around here at that time. A few years I back was reading that now in this area 20 inches is the standard. I went down and bought the 12 inch non backed rolls of insulation and put over the other insulation and it made a big difference in heating and cooling. When I built my house the insulation was foil backed.
 
The paper always goes toward the interior of the building
Recent studies have shown putting the vapor barrier to the out side is better in hot humid areas.
When your main thing is heating the vapor barrier goes to the inside
But if you run your A/C in December like we do the vapor barrier goes to the outside.

Tyvek lets moisture escape
Tyvek will only let moisture escape in the vapor form
Tar paper will let moisture escape in the liquid form also.
 
(quoted from post at 17:03:35 11/15/15) The paper always goes toward the interior of the building
Recent studies have shown putting the vapor barrier to the out side is better in hot humid areas.
In 1978 we were building pipeline control rooms in Nigeria (somewhat hot and humid), never need heat, and I suggested to the HVAC guys that we should put the vapor barrier to the outside so we didn't get insulation soaked with condensation. They said that's not the way it's done. They couldn't think it through.
 
I've heard that if there is no vapor barrier in a wall that is already insulated, then you can paint the wall with 2 coats of aluminum paint.

Dusty
 
(quoted from post at 06:06:26 11/16/15) I've heard that if there is no vapor barrier in a wall that is already insulated, then you can paint the wall with 2 coats of aluminum paint.

Dusty

Maybe. Years ago I read of vapor barrier paint.
 
My dad was a successful contractor in southern Canada. He said that the vapor barrier always went on the warm side. Of course in Canada, that would be the inside, but in some hot and humid lands, well, I guess it would be the outside.
 

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