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This made me laugh !

Works just fine--I've done it many times--works especially well with the old wind-the-rope-and-pull engines. I did make a special adapter for my drill, however--turned down a chunk of half-inch square key stock in my mini-lathe so it would chuck up, ground 3 flats to grab the chuck jaws, and peened over the end so when I pull it off the flywheel nut it comes. Did that after finding out the hard way a socket stings when it comes off going a couple thousand RPM! Hardly OSHA approved, but still preferable to wind/pull/wind/pull/wind/pull until your shoulder feels like you pitched the World Series all by yourself.
 
I tried that with a Stihl 028 saw that I could not get to start. With the intermittent firing and backfiring, it stripped the gears out of an old Black and Decker Commercial VSR drill that was in very good shape before that day..
 
I used to do that all the time when I was a McCulloch chain saw dealer.

I also have a huge 1/2" drive electric drill that's so big it will spin a freshly built V6 engine on an engine stand to check oil pressure before dropping the engine in the vehicle and firing it up. (Spark plugs removed).
 
One of the electrical contractors that I worked with would use a big right angle drill to start a 4 cylinder Wisconsin engine on a big Target concrete saw.
 
(quoted from post at 21:21:40 11/05/15) I used to do that all the time when I was a McCulloch chain saw dealer.

I also have a huge 1/2" drive electric drill that's so big it will spin a freshly built V6 engine on an engine stand to check oil pressure before dropping the engine in the vehicle and firing it up. (Spark plugs removed).
Click to expand...

They actually do that in the engine plant. It also records the torque to turn, there is a factory limit on that. Of course, it's all automated, so nobody holding a drill!!
 
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