Steel cutting hole saw. Where to find

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So since I have not been able to find a part for a sickle mower I figure I'll just make one. Problem is I need a hole that is say 2 inches. So can a guy buy a hole saw form a hard ware store or such that will cut steel??
 
Certainly can...You may need an arbor that fits in the drill chuck, then can buy individual circular blades as you want to expand the set. Can"t think of the name, but white in color, bimetal blades.
 
the milwaukee bi metal hole saw blades do a decent job. use a drill press at slow speed, plenty of oil to keep the blade cool.
 
I had a similar problem trying to cut linkage pin holes into a dozer blade attachment for my loader .
One inch twist drill prices were outrageous , a friend suggested a hole saw . I was dubious , 10mm steel seemed too thick and tough for one . I bought a 25mm saw from e bay for $15 , it just tore through the steel without a moments hesitation or chatter . I took it slowly and kept coolant on it but probably didn't need to .
There are a few types but the best have tungsten steel tips to the teeth , they look too coarse to cut well but they certainly work .
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A quality bi-metal hole saw will cut steel on a limited basis. Best if you can get it in a drill press, but a good slow speed hand drill will work. Use cutting oil, very slow speed, lots of pressure. Be careful!
 
What are you cutting? If it's sheet metal, a plain old hole saw for wood is good for a hole or two. If it's thicker, you need a bi-metal saw.
 
Greenlee makes some with a carbide tip for sheetmetal, but the wood/metal ones from Milwaukee, for example, will work if the speed is kept down. Greenlee is an electrical tool brand which I'm pretty sure you already know, so an electrical wholesaler would have them. Pretty much I'm repeating what everyone else has said.
 
I used a Lennox hole saw to cut 2" holes in a stove. Made four cuts through 1/4 steel and another four through 3/16.
Goes without saying that I used lots of cutting oil and ran slow.
Used it a few days later to saw wood.
 
As others have said. Lennox makes some great bimetal hole saws. I've used the ones from my set to cut holes in material as thick as 3/4 inch without any problem. I say that with the caveat that I had the pieces in a vice in my mill, or was running the saw with my mag base drill. In either instance I could control both the speed, and the feed, much better than you'd be able to do by hand.
 
As others are saying, use a bi-metal hole saw.

I've drilled through 1 inch thick plate before. Go slow and keep it oiled. By slow I mean RPM.
A drill press or mill is ideal if you are drilling more than 1/4" thick.

Sometimes it may snag or hit a hard spot in the metal and tear up the teeth with a ~crunch~.
If that happens take the blade to your bench grinder and grind on the back side of each tooth until you have an edge again. It will actually cut better then for metal as it will not have as much rake angle.
 
Must be something wrong with me because I find the bi medal hole saws cut a lot better if you don't use any oil. I have saws from 3/4 to 4 1/2 inches. Most of my use lately has been in a drill press at the slowest speed.
 
To pile on to what others have said.
Some of my Lennox holesaws have at least 50 holes in similar work behind them but I will warn you the learning curve for using them is steep, and harsh. Hand drilling is almost a guarantied failure, flimsy drill presses are not much better. Its one of those deals where yes it can be done but if you not intricate about it then your in for fits.
The steel must be either mild or machinable. I use the Lennox brand saws on the pinned type mandrel. You must use a drill press and the work must be clamped. The spindle speed must be slow enough that the chips are not blue. A trick that helps a lot is to drill a 1/4" pilot hole, then remove the pilot bit from the saw mandrel and replace it with a 1/4" blank rod, this keeps the pilot hole from being cut by the flutes on the bit. Once you start cutting regulate pressure so it keeps cutting. Dont remove pressure from the saw unless it stops cutting because that allows chips under the saw and it wont cut until they are cleared. If the saw quits moving stop immediately and remove the chips from the cut. Letting it grind away when not cutting will ruin the saw quickly as will light pressure that doesn't pull chips. Stockless than 3/8 you can lube the saw with whatever oil is laying about. Anything over that you will run into troubles as the other posted said as the oil wont let the chips up past the saw. Don't know why, just know he is right. On deep holes use I use kerosene or diesel fuel, or maybe very light oil or a bot of oil mixed in fuel oil would work? In good machinable steel and a sharp saw I actually run them dry with excellent results using a light air blast to keep chips out of the way. This works only with a ridged set up, sharp saws, solid pilot, and free machiningg steels.
 

If the drill press is wimpy, oil will reduce friction to help it along in thick steel. Oil does seem help reduce chatter sometimes.
 
I have a cheap Buffalo drill press but it is pretty heavy and a stand up unit so guess I'll find out later today how good it will be for cutting a hole as big as I need
 
If it comes in a small box it will have a speed chart . You must pay attention to the chart. Once the saw ": flat spots" on the cutting edge it will be useless . The key is not to let any of the work or saw overheat. An inexperineced guy can ": flat spot " the saw in less than 1 hole running too fast.Slow and steady .
 
I always keep my drill press at the slowest speed it will go so in that respect I should be ok.
 
Too slow is not good either . You need the chart . If it doesn't come with one go on the Lenox website. An even cutting pressure is needed also.
 
Are they really that inexpensive or did you stumble into a deal ?

It looks expensive !

We have an older craftsman adjustable hole saw that uses a 1/4" sq. shank lathe bit mounted on an adjustable arm. /does a decent job on thinner stuff.
 
The hole I need to cut is 2-3/4. Not sure if the Buffalo drill press I have has any thing to tell me what speed it it turning at what belt setting
 
Do you have anybody nearby with a plasma cutter?
A piece of pipe for a guide and it is a two minute job.
Probably cost you less than the bit and no cursing.
 
No one around that I know of with one. Now if I still worked at Tracker Marine like I did years ago doing this would be easy. I worked in maintenance so had access to almost any machine they had in the place
 
I tried to go to that link but after waiting 15 minutes for it to load I gave up. Some how dial up and many web sites are not friendly to each other
 

Here it is , no special deal , our dollar is dreadful at the moment . AUS$ 1.35 to the US$ , AUS$ 2.30 to the English pound !

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tungsten-Carbide-Hole-Saw-for-cutting-in-stainless-steel-metals-25mm-dia-/111769665641?
 

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