Old bandsaw-runs good, blade comes off

SDE

Well-known Member
They are selling an old band saw at work. Might be a DoAll from the 1940s. When I opened the cabinet door the blade is centered on the upper wheel, but it is not centered on the lower wheel. Is there a way to adjust that? It will not cut straight either. I think that it would, if the guides for the blade were thicker,so it would not allow the blade to move sideways so much. Any help is appreciated. I do not want to up my bid if the fix is more than just an adjustment.
Thank you
SDE
 
Not sure if you have a metal or wood cutting bandsaw. I have an old 10" woodcutting bandsaw, it was a Montgomery Wards but I think it was made for them by someone else. I got it for $5 at an auction and bought new tires for it. It worked for a while but then it started doing what you describe. The upper wheel runs on a bushing and it seems wobbly so I am hoping that a new bushing will put it back in business. In the meantime I have a 14" and an 18" bandsaw so it is not something I have to fix right away. Probably will be a winter project by the time I get to it. I would check that the wheel is true and the pivot is tight. You should be able to adjust tracking with a knob behind the upper wheel on a woodcutting saw, not sure on a metal one but I am sure it is there somewhere.
Zach
 
If you can look at it with the blade off, check the upper and lower wheel for up and down, side to side play. If there is, the upper bearing or gear box bearings are bad, or the wheel hub could be wallowed from running loose. That could be an expensive repair, especially if the wheel or gear box shaft is bad.

But then, there are many reasons the blade is not centered. The upper wheel angle is adjustable. Could be as simple as loose bolts or improper assembly.

The blade condition, blade type, size, teeth per inch, speed, and guides are all critical for proper operation. The blade needs to be matched to the material and type cutting being done. The guides must be matched to the blade width, be within wear limits, and properly adjusted... It all works together, sounds complicated but really it's not once it's properly set up. But a band saw that is not set up right will be an exercise in futility, short blade life, poor cutting, jumping off the wheels, etc!

Even though it's old, good chance parts and guides can still be bought. If this is a metal cutting saw, it could be a good investment. Doall is a reputable, serviceable brand.

This might also be a 3 phase motor, is that a concern?
 
It is a 220 volt-3ph. I was going to check out my options for getting a converter, but I forgot and do not have time now.
Thank you
Steve
 
Very good video. Unfortunately, I have to go now and only got to watch 18:00 min. of it.
Thank you
SDE
 
Unless the machine has been damaged in some way you can adjust that out. Having said that though the saw may need new tires before that is a possibility. You really need someone with experience at replacing tires. If the saw is larger than 14" urethane tires don't do very well but are easy to install. You just stretch them on like a rubber band but on larger saws tend the tires tend to walk off after using them for a while. A better tire would be a rubber tire but they need to be glued on the wheels and then trued and crowned. This is where the experience is needed. Just look the tires over real well. If the tires are bad they will show damage or an deep indentation where the blade ran.
 

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