Full Choke to run

I have a Farmall Super A...When I first purchased I would pull the choke out to start and then push back in...throttle took care of power after that. NOW I can only get started and stay running with the CHOKE fully pulled out. What is causing this?

Thanks
FRBoy
 
Do you make sure you always run it out of fuel (ie shut the fuel off) if you are not going to start it again for a few days? If not you probably have plugged the main jet of the carb.
 

A fairly standard symptom of fuel starvation . Look at the flow to the carburettor if this is ok then try cleaning the jets .
 
How do I go about that...there is good gas supply to
carb...i also have not been turning gas valve off....it will also just shut down after 20 min of running. Walk away for few min and start right up again. seafoam any good? Is it true crossing plug
wire so tractor backfires helps?
 
Your carb needs cleaning. Take it apart and clean all the insides plus every hole you find. Pull all the needles out. When you pull a needle out, run it in and count the turns and when you put it back, run it in and then out that number of turns.
 
You might be getting good gas flow to the carb but not good gas flow into the carb. If you let it sit, the slow fuel flow refills the carb bowl and while it isn't enough fuel to keep it running forever, the little that flows into the carb will make what is in the bowl last longer. Remove the fuel connection from the carb and verify that you have good flow there. If so, remove the carb and look in where the fuel line connects and see if the screen there is plugged.
 
Pull the carb drain plug out of the bottom of the carb and let the gas flow a few minutes. It should fill a pint jar in 3 or so minutes. Do not know it that carb has an adjustable main jet or not but if it does open it up a bit if it does not then it will have a cover plug remove it and spray carb cleaner in to the main jet with the drain plug removed
 
Here's the deal. If you have gas flow to the carb but little to the cylinders, the blockage is in the carb. You have a high speed circuit and a low speed circuit. Your high speed ciruit is plugged up with lacquers and other junk. So, the gas flow is restricted and you need to reestablish the gas/air mix and the only way to do that is cut off the air with a closed off choke and then it runs..sorta. Any time you run half choke or full choke and you have gas flow to the carb, then the carb needs cleaning 98% of the time. Try it and report back.
 
Id it's not the carburetor, the air filter could be clogged somewhere. Check the filter and air tubes.
 
Crossing plug wires will surely cause an engine to backfire, but will NOT help a thing. Matter of fact, it could possibly cause damage, or cause a fire. Time was, I would buy carburetor cleaner in gallon cans from NAPA, but it became so expensive that now when I need to clean a carburetor, I purchase three or four spray cans at Wally World. Those little straws that come with it do a great job of cleaning passages. Just make sure you have plenty of ventilation.
 
(reply to post at 15:30:06 09/09/15)

"Here's the deal." Don't go tearing into the carburetor or ignition until you have established that there is FLOW of Fuel to the carburetor as Old has posted, by removing the drain plug. Presence of gas does NOT equal flow.
 
If that carb. has adjustable load and idle screws it may just only need adjusted ? Some times they do drift.
 

Had similar symptoms on a JD2010 gas. Turned out the ignition switch was bad.

Sometimes the gas outlet in the tank gets clogged from crud in the bottom of the tank. Best cure is to remove and clean tank. A temporary and usually long term fix is to take filler cap OFF, disconnect line, and blow back into tank, briefly.

KEH
 
If it just dies after twenty minutes it's not got good flow to the carburetor. Probably has debris in the tank restricting flow. Sometimes a floating nest of trash.
 
My old Farm all Cub had a fuel bowl between the gas tank outlet and the carburetor inlet. Check to see if yours has "trash" in it. Shut off the fuel valve, remove the fuel bowl and clean it out. Get a small container and hold it under the fuel outlet, turn the fuel valve on for a couple of seconds then close it. Then remove and clean out the carb using spray can carb cleaner like some of the other gentlemen have already advised. The cleaner you can keep the fuel bowl, the cleaner the carb will stay. The fuel bowl kinda sorta worked like a fuel filter. The last couple of years, before every time I would use the Cub, I would remove and clean out the fuel bowl.
Good fortune!
Scott
 
These guys all have good points, but I will put in my 2 cents worth. A massive air leak will also cause that problem. Only when the air is completely shut off from the normal(air cleaner)flow does the motor run. Check for intake manifold or carb bolts that have vibrated loose, or a gasket that is blown. Spraying a small amount of brake cleaner or penetrating oil around the flanges with the engine running will diagnose this problem. Once the air leak is fixed, it will run with the choke open again.
 
With your comment...I noticed I have a yellow brown substance in the canister of my air cleaner. Color like black coffee with alot of cream added. And its full to the top of canister...should it be and why is it that odd color...should it not be oil color?
FRB
 
the bowl has consistent dirt and impurities at the bottom...When I turn the valve on to refill I see this uneven flow out of the "little" spickets that the bowl surrounds and a gurgling noise inside the tank. I now see I have a leak dripping at the bottom of the carb...not the nut at the bottom but next to it...thinking its coming from the back side of carb...now the tractor won't start even with full choke...it usually would take right off first crank.

thanks
 

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