Case 580ck coolant purged from rear of block

Case 580ck (1967) 188 diesel.

Just purchased it. Previous owner placed a new radiator on with 13 PSI cap (has red tab on top that can be lifted up for added psi control?).

Day 1: Filled radiator with 50/50 water/antifreeze (AF). A nipple at the top of the radiator spewed fluid and eventually settled down. Devised hose/clamp and let that go away from block. Working temp under 160.

Day 2: No AF in radiator. Put 2 gallons in and went to work. AF spewing from under radiator cap, loose hose burst from radiator to block. Working temp under 160.

Day 3: Put 50/50 (2 gallons) back in radiator. Temp under 160 and AF blew out the back of the block.

Upon looking closer, a metal disk roughly 1 1/2 inches blew out from the back of the block. Looked like JB Weld was on it but it had OEM paint over it. I understand that this is a pressure point in case of other failures.

Any advice? I would like to JB Weld it back in place and possibly get a lower PSI cap for the radiator and possibly and overfill bucket since it spews so much AF while it runs. Do I need to remove the fuel tank, etc to access it and pound it back to seat it or can I simply JB Weld it?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!!!!

No AF in my oil. Everything works other than that.

Best solution would be to replace the freeze plug, just put it in with some sealer. Unless the sealing surface is damaged, no need for JB Weld. I like the brass expandable type plug if there is room and the application is for a cup type plug. It has an acorn nut that expands it, goes in easier, seals tighter. Just measure the hole or old plug, get them at the auto supply.

The blowing of antifreeze while the engine is not over heated is concerning. That is a sign of a blown head gasket. Possibly it has been overheated in the past because of the leaking freeze plug. I would repair the leak, maybe replace the thermostat just to be on the safe side, try it again. Try leaving a couple inches of space below the rad cap, don't fill it completely full. A lower pressure cap won't fix it, go with the recommended cap. The lever on top of the cap, that is a safety pressure relief, to let off the pressure before opening the cap. It should be down to run.

Steve, those are NOT freeze plugs, even though they are sometimes mistakenly called that. They are core plugs from the original casting. That is where they remove the sand from casting. They are then machined to size and fitted with metal cup plugs to seal them.
Calling them freeze plugs implies that they will protect the block or other casting from cracking in the event of coolant freezing in the casting. They will not do that. If coolant freezes in a block, it will crack right along side a core plug, and even right through the diameter of the plug. I've seen too many do just that through the years. And too many folks thinking that the "freeze plugs" will protect the block.
Otherwise, your post is correct, in that the rubber expandable plugs do seal better than the metal ones. BUT, temperature changes, weather, and exposure to grease and oil will deteriorate the rubber ones. A good tight fitting metal cup type plug driven in with a coating of sealer on the seal surface is the best permanent repair.

When he said Freeze Plug, you knew what he was talking about.
When you said Core Plug, only you had a clue.

Just saying.

Thank all for their valuable input.

As far as the metal to cover the hole: I'm thinking of an appropriate sized snap-in ring much like for an electrical panel (snap button).

As far as the seal you would use... name it. Seal the inside edge, seat it and then plaster a fair amount over the covering with the additional seal?

There is about 1.25 to 1.5 inches between the back of the block (hole location) and a large metal piece that holds the exhaust and runs down underneath the pneumatic control box as well as butting up against the diesel tank. Very little space to do anything and would dislike the thought of undoing so much to seal this plug.

Thanks once again.

Jim, I guess calling them "freeze plugs" is a regional thing. I can see where that could be misleading, but mostly it's just what I've always called them! LOL I suspect if I were to go to the auto supply 'round here and ask for a core plug, I would probably get the thousand yard stare followed by "huhhh?"

I have seen them pushed out from freezing, mostly on marine engines that didn't get drained. Sometimes the block survived, some times it didn't!

And, the plug I recommended was a brass plug, not rubber.

http://www.dormanproducts.com/c-353-expansion-plugs-quick-seal-copper.aspx

They are a lot easier to get in if in an awkward place, and they are a permanent fix. I don't like the rubber ones, don't trust them. Like you said, they deteriorate, and they will not stay in unless the surface is completely clean and dry.

Go with this type plug:

http://www.dormanproducts.com/c-353-expansion-plugs-quick-seal-copper.aspx

Clean the hole, scrape it, sand it down to bare metal. Just a little sealer, like Permatex will work. This
type plug can be pushed into the hole with moderate effort. Just be careful to get it straight and don't push
it in too far, there is no getting it back out being in the place it is! Then snug the nut, it will be a
permanent fix.

You won't want to hear this but I had exactly the same problem on a 580CK. The problem is 1
or more cylinder sleeves are moving up and down in the block letting compression into the
colling system. Common problem with that engine. Solution is to have block machined and new
sleeves reseated.Have head decked at the same time.Install new antifreeze with diesel
additive to keep bubbles down.Good luck.
Lakeguy

Sulli, whether or not you have a sleeve sealing issue the plug shouldn't have blown out/be leaking.

You need to either replace the Welch plug, or as another poster suggested, use a repair plug that tightens in place, if there is enough room for one.

If you go with the OEM-style plug, I have attached instructions as to how to install them, by the company that makes them.

You are not going to need the tool used in a production, but it will give you an idea how to flatten it out after installation, which lock it in plug.

Clean the bore where the plug goes well, and use a small amount of Loctite and it won't weep coolant or push out.
Welch plug installation

Is 13 psi the correct radiator pressure for that tractor? Most farm equipment back then used around 4 psi. Excessive radiator pressure isn't the cause of those other problems, but it could make those problems worse.

suspect blown head gasket or worse putting compression in to cooling system. or maybe the freeze plug was leaking all the time, but fix it.. fill to rim while running and look for bubbles coming out of rim of radiator.. if it keeps expelling bubbles, you have a problem...

I have a 580sk
just went and looked it has a 4lb cap, looks origional