Towing with a class C motor home

Dusty MI

Well-known Member
We have an '03 24' Itasca. It came new with 3000 tow 350 tongue weight hitch.
We got rear ended and the hitch was replaced by the dealer with a 5000/500 towing or 6000/750 weight distribution hitch. We tow our 20' flat bed trailer using a wd hitch, often towing almost 6000 lb. with 500 +/- on the tongue. This set up works well.

We are looking at a new 27' mh, we are concerned about towing with the wd hitch because the new mh has about the same wheel base, but about 3 more feet of over hang.

The sales man and a couple of techs at the dealership think we will be alright. Anyone on here have any experience like this?

When we bought the 24' 03, Winnebago was doing the frame extensions to Ford Spec. I would think that would be the same today.

Dusty
 
Dusty, too much frame extension beyond the rear axles coupled with a lot of tongue weight ON A CLASS C FRAME REALLY SCARES ME. However, I have no specs or data to back that up. Things I would consider would be rear air shocks to pick up the rear end a bit and then beefing up that added extended frame, but that would take some serious engineering and knowledgeable welding, neither of which I can offer any advice. As you see my current tow set up (my 29 Ft Class C) when we take the truck and golf cart to Florida has no tongue weight to speak of, so it doesn't worry me much, HOWEVER that trailer I saw at your RV park with your car loaded on has to be some serious tongue weight which would worry me on an extended frame longer Class C....

Hope to see you again this Winter.

John T
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John T, That is the rig I'm talking about, but we use a WD hitch and balance the trailer so it has about 500 lb. on the hitch before the spring bars are attached, which I believe transfers much of that weight to the mh front axel. But I'm sure that still adds stress to the mh frame. But last I knew Winnebago builds that frame extension to Ford specs.

Dusty
 
If its true "But last I knew Winnebago builds that frame extension to Ford specs." I would be a lot LESS worried. I've seen a ton of Class C's with tow hitches where the frame extensions were pure junk and wouldn't tow a "rubber chicken" You may still need lift air bags or air shocks to raise that rear end a few critical inches????

John T
 
Be careful on this one. I have known some of these that have had the roof crack from side to side due to frame flex if to much tongue weight.

Depends on what you are planning on towing. If a car on a car dolly you should be OK. If a boat or utility trailer be careful.
 
We done made the deal MAKE ROOM. Your truck and wifes car can sit on the street. I get Ribs, keys to shop, 200 Amp Electric Service for RV, unlimited water use, you get marginal legal advice lol

Hope to see you in January

John T
 
THis is a different truck then the one you took a sawzall and cut the wheel wells out, but maybe you can do this one also???

See you at Elnora

John T
 
I've had motorhomes and have towed since 1974. I've had several C's, many A's and some of those super long 17 passenger Dodge vans. I don't want the tail wagging the dog. Overhang (behind the rear axle) makes driving/towing scary and dangerous. Some MUST exist, of course, but I refuse to buy a motorhome with more than minimal overhang because of the driving and handling characteristics. For a big, heavy load such as you describe, I would NOT buy any longer class C than you already have. If you are determined to buy a longer class C, then it is probably high time you go to a tow dolly.
Good luck. kelly
 
I hope you have brakes on trailer.

Towing a 20 ft trailer with mh would be a little scarey, not to mention dangerous if you
are going through mountains.

BIL has a 40 ft diesel pusher monico. That's a little scary just going through mountains
on the way to Florida from Indiana. He wants to pull a jeep. Got a brake system from U-
haul, $1K. It pushes on Jeep's brake peddle
 
I have the Prodigy brake control. And also the break away system.
The first trailer I had was a 16' landscapers type trailer. It had the brake away system, which was just a battery and the brake away pin. There never was a draw so the battery was always fully charged.
I then went to my current 20' flat bed. It also has the brake away system but this one some how charges the battery when in use, I would guess through the running lights. But if I don't unplug the battery when not in use the battery will run down. It also has a button you can push to check the state of charge.
I've though of putting a diod in it to see if that would stop it from draining the battery when not in use.
Anyone have the same problem?

Dusty
 

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