Cracked gun stock.

I have a .222 with a walnut stock on it and it cracked. I have some pictures showing whats going on and will upload them as soon as my phone cooperates. Is it as simple as glueing it where it cracked and putting it in a vice to dry or do I need to take further action? It is a smaller rifle but still a rifle none the less. The stock was hand checkered and possible even carved by my pap who is no longer around. Needless to say I need to keep the stock with the gun for sentimental value. I can get a syringe to push glue into all the possible places it is cracked but I am looking for the input of others. Thanks
 
Good 2 part clear epoxy. Some brass all- thread or knurled rod glued into holes if it is through the wrist or a similar high stress area.
 

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto26146.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto26147.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto26148.jpg"/>
 
Gorilla Glue is really good on broken wood like that. Follow the directions exactly. It's water activated and doesn't seem right at first. Good stuff.
 
I would do like the RG stated I would use a slow cure epoxy. Put it as far in the split as possible and give it just a couple minutes with the crack held open and let gravity move it down a little more. I used to have a piece of latex tubing that I bought for clamping cracked gun stocks. The more you wrapped the tighter it clamped. If you plan on using firing the gun it you may want to pin it also as stated by RG. Good luck.
 
If it is a clean break that hasn't been glued before a carpenters yellow glue would be the best adhesive to use. If the joint pulls up tight it will be stronger than before it was broken. If it has been glued before then a two part epoxy would be the best adhesive.
 
You're going to have one shot at doing it right. You'll need to think very carefully how you're going to clamp it as the glue sets. You'll want the cracks to be exposed when it's clamped so you can clean up any glue that is squeezed out.

I would probably use a thin, slow-setting expoxy, like WEST. Coat the surfaces using a brush, then wait a few minutes for the glue to soak in before clamping.

Carpenter's glue (PVA, e.g. Titebond II) would probably work, but the break in the action area looks like it's going to need all the help it can get.

I'm not a fan of polyurethane glues like Gorilla Glue. They expand as they cure and can make a real mess.
 
I was told that glue like carpenters glue is a water base glue, and that if you wet the area that is to be glued first, that the glue will flow better into where it needs to be.

Dusty
 
(quoted from post at 21:54:01 08/16/15)
&lt;image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto26146.jpg"/&gt;

&lt;image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto26147.jpg"/&gt;

&lt;image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto26148.jpg"/&gt;


That stock isn't cracked, that stock is BROKEN. You can try gluing, pinning and doweling it yourself, but if you want a nice job done find a GOOD gunsmith who does that kind of work. I've seen dozens and dozens of stocks with repairs that really aren't well done. One busted up that bad needs a lot more than a little glue.
 
How wide is that crack? Can you close the crack with just hand pressure? It looks like the wood cracked to relieve internal stress; if that is the case, you may have to apply some steam to the part that you want to get back in place and clamp it while it is still damp and let it dry with the clamps in place.

Do you know anyone who could loan you some screw type woodworking clamps? Or a woodworker that could help you or advise on how to repair that.

I recommend that you have the wood dry when you apply the woodworking glue. For this application, I recommend Tirebond III, as it has more open time to allow you to get the clamps in the right place and clamp the wood into place. Titebond II sets up pretty fast unless you are in real humid conditions. Once the wood is glued into place, leave the clamps on for 24 hours - that joint will be stronger than the original wood if glued properly.

Just wipe off any squeeze out glue with a damp cloth as soon as you are satisfied with the clamp job, before the glue can set up, so you don't have to scrape the hardened glue off the finish.
 
I agree with Bret 4207 The stock is broken not cracked. Find a very capable gunsmith that has experienced broken stocks. Have him repair it, then buy a good synthetic stock for the rifle. Put the wood stock in a closet or some other safe place as a remembrance of your Father. If you choose to try to repair it yourself go into Midway USA, I think Larry has a video on how to repair a cracked stock. He may also have the right bonding agent to use. Which ever way you go I would not use that stock again other then to display. Shooting is fun, Randy
 
I had one worse than that [think 5 pieces] on a 308.
With nothing to loose I used plenty of white wood glue and what seemed like 20 C-clamps.
Let it sit for a few days to dry real good then un-clamped it and cleaned up the excess glue.
Have been using it like that for 5 years now and it is holding great.
You need a magnifying glass to see where the breaks were.
Be sue to dry fit everything before you glue it as you may have to pull a few chips or do a bit of sanding so everything lines up right.
 
I should mention in the pictures I am putting pressure on the stock to show where it's cracked. When the stock has no pressure and when the barrel is mounted you cannot see the cracks. Any pressure applied to it is causing it to move. This all happened when the gun sling broke causing it to fall on harder ground sideways. I have shot it since but only once. I dot believe there is a lot of pressure on these areas. And they are the weak spot as its hollowed from the clip. Also I have titebond III at home but can get other stuff if it's better.
 
I repaired a broken gun stock (tripped and fell on frozen ground) about 40 years ago. Glued with Elmer's carpenter glue....removed the action, glued the break, wrapped with a whole roll of masking tape and put in the closet. Took it out 2 months later, sanded the glue lines, put the action on and went on my way. It is still holding, and you would never know it had been broken if I didn't point it out to you.
 
glued AND doweled would be my choice.. however with the break ( not crack! ) going thru so much thin webbing, dowling will be difficult, and IMHO.. not worth it as a cost exercise.

if it's repaired, that many dowels needed to really stabilize that stock will then need to have correct walnut plugs made to cap the holes.

IMHO.. that stock is done.

you might just glue and clean it and keep it in case the gun ever needs to just be a wall hanger in 80 years..
 
Might try here: www.boydsgunstocks.com They are in Mitchell SD. I know 2 people that have replaced their stocks and were very happy with the results. Good luck.

Mike
 
I put a laminated stock on my SS XS7 Marlin. Really dressed it up and it fit perfectly right out of the box. They cut the checkering - its not pressed.
 
hard to tell from that picture,but if the wood all fits together tightly I think you'll be fine gluing it.

the wood itself would probably break apart before the glue joint.

But I'd use titebond II for dark wood. It's made for darker woods like walnut, and will be less obvious than a white glue in wider joints or gaps.

Titebond II is also waterproof - not that you're going to soak your rifle in water - but an all day hunt in the rain could undo regular wood glue.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top