Shop interior wall material?

Butch(OH)

Well-known Member
We will soon be moving to a new place and the 48 x 24 building that will become my shop was built for a machine shed. I would call it "conventional??" construction. Cement blocks on footer 2 blocks above grade then a sill plate and 2x6 walls, rafters 4 foot on center, standing seam roof, wood "car siding" on the outside. We are going to install a ceiling , insulate etc but am undecided on wall material. I have seen dry wall, sanded one side ply wood and white metal used and when I price them out nothing sticks out so it's strictly a whats the best? question. Building will be full time heated and likely air conditioned.

Thanks for input
 
Plywood painted white makes a nice wall as then you can hang anything anywhere on it. This would have to be VERY expensive today ! I went with White metal inside liner panel. It is a little cheaper than outer siding. Fireproof and can hose it all down if needed. I HATE drywall !!! can't stand the stuff. Just to fragile.
I saw one guy used some sort of vinyl soffet panels or something on his worked out nice. Another fellow built his whole building from garage door panels.
 
I would use the white steel called liner panel. You could put one or two sheets (horizontal) of a darker color around the bottom if you like. I have always used sheetrock but it's a lot of work to finish it, which I do myself. With steel when it's on it's done! I would never use a flammable material in a shop.
 
Insulate and you could then hang pegboard in some areas and thin plywood in others. lots of options.
 
White steel liner is the only way to go. Looks great, is price competitive, flame retardant, and the pressure washer makes it look like new again.
 
I don't know, maybe yours is more build-able, but 4' O.C. rafters can be a real pain as I have experienced. One our barns has 50' common trusses at that spacing and when I rebuilt almost half of it after a snow collapse, we kept the 4' spacing, something I'll never do again. Easy to fall through from up top. 1/2 as many trusses = savings, but I'd have to really think about dealing with it and trusting even full, not nominal 2"x4" perlins while working on top with that space between. Scissor lift from the ground would have helped, but we did it all off ladders and climbing.
 
White steel liner is the only way to go. Looks great, is price competitive, flame retardant, and the pressure washer makes it look like new again.
 
Metal walls reflect a lot of noise. We used OSB and painted with good waskable paint before installing and then just touched up. It looks good but it has only been 5 years.
 
I've done 4 Morton buildings now, 1 building then 2 additions, 1 at a time, and then 1 more new building, at a new to us home. All with USB sheeting on the inside.
This last one I painted the USB sheets before I hung them.
In all the buildings I have no ceilings, but they are well insulated, even the bottom side of the roof.
The first one went up in 1983, the last in 2012. Never a problem with any of them.

I ran 2x4s horizontal on 2' centers flush between the posts to nail the USB sheets on.

Dusty
 
I have 2 courses of block and 2x4 stud walls between my poles. OSB painted white and 4 inch insulation in the walls. When I get a ceiling in, It will be very comfortable. We go from 0 degrees to 100 plus here.
Richard in NW SC
 
I used steel on the inside of mine. I used Menards Dura panel as it was a little cheaper than their regular liner panel. Not as thick as the premium panels they sell but it isn't out in the weather which helps. You can price some of them out on their website. I bought all the panels when they had 11% off and used what I "saved" (lol) to buy the plastic liner panels for my rolling door.
 
My vote is, OSB painted white on the walls Liner panels for ceiling with joists 3'OC and 14 inches of fiberglass blown in over the top. Working good for me. gobble
 
My pole barn was designed for snow loads, trusses 2 'OC. OSB decking, no purlans.

AS for siding, I have a heated garage that is drywalled. Wouldn't want drywall unless it's heated and kept dry.

As for a work shop, drywall can be easily damaged. I like the idea of using nails over peg board, to hang things on the wall, so OSB would have my vote, not to mention it would hold up better to nicks and dings. Metal would just dent.
 
OSB over rolled insulation on the walls and a white tin ceiling with blown in insulation. It is not painted, something I debate but painted OSB looks like painted OSB.
 
5/8 drywall may be a pain but it makes the best wall. Forever repairable, noise stays outside (or inside), fire barrior for two hours and feels like your working in your living room.
 
Depends on how nice you want it to look. Me, I don't want OSB anywhere that shows. Drywall is OK, but I like to be able to drive a screw wherever I want to support lighter weights. Don't even like to hang a picture in drywall. My preference for my shop was T-lll exterior siding panels, 4" ridges. I like the rough-cut surface, and I like the uniform appearance of the finished job. You can leave it natural (I varnished mine) or paint it. I found a discount store that sold very slightly blemished sheets at a good reduction in price. I also recently used it as the exposed ceiling on a 12 x 24 patio cover I built.
 
The cheaper grade of steel works fine, goes up quick and is maintenance free. It's tougher to just hang stuff at random on a steel wall. I have sometimes made little brackets that can be screwed onto the steel with a couple of metal screws if I can't hang it on where a nailer is backing it up. A sheet of plywood can be screwed to the metal wall if you need a place to drive in rows of long screws for hanging washers, wrenches, etc.
 
Do you guys put a vapor barrier over the inside metal prior to putting the rolled insulation under the osb, or is the vapor barrier on the osb side of the wall?

John
 
(quoted from post at 07:02:38 07/26/15) Do you guys put a vapor barrier over the inside metal prior to putting the rolled insulation under the osb, or is the vapor barrier on the osb side of the wall?

John


I use the fiber glass that has the vapor barrier with it next to the OSB
 

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