Pics of split rims on 1971 chevy c-30

Hey folks,

I posted below on the possibility of swapping the wheels on my new (to me) dump truck. it has split rims.

The tires are 7.50/16 lt.

Interested in suggestions or thoughts.

BTW the truck is a 1971 c-30 custom with a 350 v-8 and standard tranny with granny low and reverse.

It is manual steering now but I plan on converting to power with parts from a donor truck.

Thanks,

Brad
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Hello Brad Buchanan,

The truck looks good, BUT them rims sure have to go!

Guido.
 
Yeah, no reason to get rid of those. I ran those on all of my school buses right up until the last new one in '87. They don't ride as smooth as they never did balance, but there are some beads or something they can put in them if it really worries you.

I wouldn't get rid of those at all. Tire places can change those no problem. It's not like they are the widow makers I still run on my grain truck. Heck, the Coop still works on those.

Paint them up purdy and run her.
 
If that was my truck, I'd start looking for newer ones to upgrade But would wear those out before changing them out. Nothing wrong with those rims that a coat of paint can't help.
 
I have 2 C-10 with cabs like that and 2 C-20s with the same cab. The one I have are 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton. One of the C-20s I want to turn into a mine semi 10 wheels and all. Plus add an Aux transmission to it which would give it 16 forward gears
 
The wheels on the Chevy truck are not split rims. The old split rims were 2 sections each part being half the wheel. The wheel shown are very common and are not dangerous if you use caution when inflating the tire. If you are concerned you can wrap a chain around it or put it in a cage. Use a lock on chuck and turn the air on after you place the tire upside down and step away. I have changed many of them and never had one fail. They require inner tubes and liners.
 
Actually, the rims look in pretty good shape. When I was in the Army, we used to take wire brushes to them on our 2.5 and 5-tons, the whole rim inside and out, paying special attention to the snap rings and where they met the rims to clean them, then paint them...completely before putting the new tires on. Its particularly important to clean the snap rings and rims where they meet. The one thing that scared me about splits was after putting the new tires on, waiting for the snap ring to pop with the bead. Used to put chains around them, and put into a cage with the tire and rim against the cage next to me, snap ring facing away, and say a quiet prayer as I filled them by reaching through to the valve stem from the backside of the rim. I never had one fail, but still.

That's a real good looking truck. You did real well. Mine was red. I almost forgot that once worked on a 1967 one ton camper out of California that broke down on the interstate. It had a 348 in it. 350 didn't come out until 1968, and in '67 the 327 was well in its stride, but when I popped the hood there was no mistaking the Mark I style of the 348/409, but his was a 348. Surprised me. I didn't think they still made them that late, but there it was lurking out from under the hood and it sure was broken.

Good luck in your decision and with your truck. Its sharp, and a real work horse.

Mark
 
I would run them until the tires are shot and get rid of those rims then. Guy I grew up with who worked at a tire store for years was killed with one. 90 lbs of air pushing on a split is more than my nerves can stand.
 
The # one reason I got rid if mine was I got a bad set of tires that would not balance out, I thought it was in the rims but it was the tires... I was tired of having to remove the tire to fix a flat so it was worth the swap...

To answer Hollander cross over "NO DODGE/FORD RIMS" will inter change... My book is old and does not cover past about 1985...

You will need rims that fit 1971 to 1981 chevy trucks, some GMC rims will work bit limited to a few years are what the Hollander book list... These rims come in 6" are 6 1/2" wide...

Some other terms you need to consider are in this post..

hub-centric
"coined"
"skirted" lug nut

"Long story short, even though the bolt-patterns are the same, there are numerous variables involved that can lead to un-safe conditions, when using wheels that are not specifically designed for the particular truck, regardless of what Bubba down at the pool-hall claims."

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?19491-Dually-wheel-differences
 
Brad- You are right they are split rims with the lock ring on them - don't let these guys kid you. The have never had 1 blow apart 5 minutes after you fixed it and bolted it back on the truck. They never had 1 blow apart in the cage while you are airing it up. They have never had 1 blow apart laying on the ground beside while you are moving the jack to put it on the truck-with the parts landing on the flat roof of the tire shop 15 feet above you. They have never had 1 blow apart going down the road with the lock ring destroying the siding on some ones front porch. I've seen all of these and more. They NEED to go before someone gets hurt or killed. Do not let these guys kid you. As I said before-You should be able to buy 16" steel tubeless dually rims at most truck salvage yards.
 
What's the big deal with these rims.

Those are not Firestone RH-5 split (widow maker) rims.

Those are common locking ring rims that you pretty much have to use if you are running tubes in your tires.

If you change them out to one piece rims you have to use tubeless tires.
 
In the next to the last picture shows why you need to get new rims for the truck. Rust between the rim and center to the point its pushing the center up so time for new ones. Ford used (Chevy did too) 2 different rim width on there 1 piece rims, One is for 215/75R16 and the other one for the 235/75R16 for truck tires so the rims are about an inch different in width. The narrow ones will work great for 7.50x16" tires to fit there profile, problem is 7.50x16 tires are getting hard to find. So if you plan on keeping the truck I would go wider rims and go with the 235/75or85 x 16 tires 10 ply tires on the truck for the load ability they have. Going with the wider rims gives you the chance to use the 235x16 (witch is taller) or use a 225x16 (witch is shorter and wider) depending on the gear raito of the truck to help with road speed and power. I hope this helps. Bandit
 
I agree that they can be dangerous, but only in the hands of people who are dangerous. If you take the time to clean and inspect them before you put them together they are not dangerous. A old tire guy told me that the guys today are so used to the tubeless tires that don't take the time to clean and inspect the old style rims and that is where the problem lies. I agree that if you don't know what you are to look for to use them safely get rid of them.

Bob
 
I am posting a link that will help you in anyway you might need help on that very nice C30. I had a 1970 C30 myself. I went to wrecking yard and found 16 inch chevy wheels and the flat bolt rings that need to slip over the studs. Stay away from the wheels that are around 2000 or newer as they have a bigger center hole. Watch out that you don't get the older 16.5 inch wheels that I think were stopped being used around late 70's or early 80's. I had to look for awhile before I located some because in my area those are desirable wheels and a lot went to the scraper already, but they are still out there.
Just noticed the grill on your truck. That is a 69 or 70 grill but it is possible it was changed out at some point. Chevy changed the front brakes from drum to disc in 71 also, so if it is 71 it should have the disc brakes.
67 to 72 chevy truck website
 
(quoted from post at 10:05:15 07/19/15) Brad- You are right they are split rims with the lock ring on them - don't let these guys kid you. The have never had 1 blow apart 5 minutes after you fixed it and bolted it back on the truck. They never had 1 blow apart in the cage while you are airing it up. They have never had 1 blow apart laying on the ground beside while you are moving the jack to put it on the truck-with the parts landing on the flat roof of the tire shop 15 feet above you. They have never had 1 blow apart going down the road with the lock ring destroying the siding on some ones front porch. I've seen all of these and more. They NEED to go before someone gets hurt or killed. Do not let these guys kid you. As I said before-You should be able to buy 16" steel tubeless dually rims at most truck salvage yards.

You are 100% correct. Those type of rims are an accident waiting to happen, and someone is going to get hurt, or worse, killed.
 
It's fine if you wish to replace them, but they are not the Widowmaker bad ones.

Nothing wrong with a split ring style like you have. They use the edge of the tire to hold the pieces together, and one can inspect the ring pieces easily from just looking at the tire.

The bad ones are the split rims, the lower left corner in the pic. These you can't easily see if they are alighted right, nor inspect for rust and damage, and the tire sidewall is not keeping them pressed together. Only this style is a bad design.

All the other designs are still good and fine.

Paul
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At one time in my life I acquired the nickname Truck-tire. I have changed a lot of tires that used the "locking Ring" system that your truck uses/has on it now.

They are not the true split rims that some people refer to as "suicides" but they are locking ring type rims. Over time when change/handled by people that beat the ring to break the bead the locking ring becomes deformed/bent and can become very dangerous.

If I remember your locking ring rims are actually called safety (ring) rims. It was supposed to be an improvement over the older spit rims. I cant remember if it was a selling point or a gimmick to get people to accept the rims.

But I do know a lot of school buses used the very same style of rims that you have on your truck for the supposed safety.

Most tire shops today would not change or repair the tires on your truck nor would they balance the front tires with the rims you currently have.

From the pictures you shared you may have a problem occurring in the last picture with rust. Hard to say from a picture.

Personally I would not be concerned with the rims unless a problem began to occur but that's me. I know how to change them and own the crowfoot bar needed to remove the outer ring.

The options are up to you, if you are concerned then I would start looking for replacement rims for at least the front.

This way you can have the front tires balanced.

If you can find good used one piece rims for the back then over time you can replace them.

please remember that most shops today will not repair or balance a tire mounted on a locking ring rim for a pickup truck. Plus I doubt they would know how to remove the ring.

Just my thoughts. Be safe
 
Pictures of actual split rim.....not at all likely that he has these on his Chebby!

 
I'll tell you what my tire guy told me. Go to a commercial tire shop.
Your local Goodyear, or Merchant's tire shop probably won't have that tire in their computer, or want to fool with split rims. Take your truck, or one of your rims where the real trucks go, and get their opinion, and prices. If your rims aren't safe they will tell you. Just bought 2 6.50 x 16's for the front of my pickup, I have 7.50's on the rear.
 
As in taking a 1969 Chev C-10 and mak8ing it look like a mini big rig. Put 2 rear drive axles under the rear of it and have a 5th wheel plate and build a flat bed trailer for it so it looks like an 18 wheeler just small in size
 
Get yourself different rims and put tubeless rims on. Split rims of that age can't be trusted. We did some repairs on split rims, took them out to the farmer's place bolted them on his truck and brought his truck back to the shop, the left inside dual blew apart, cut the brake line lost all the brake fluid and had no brakes. It wasn't fun and to think we thru them off the back of a pickup truck when we unloaded them.
 
Great truck you have there . I had a 72 Chev with 17x750 lock ring rims. , as has been clearly stated , rust is the lock rings enemy. I had one blow apart on me taking a corner, at low speed ,loaded. Not fun ! I dropped the truck down to common one piece 16" rims. Through the speed-o out of wack, but so what .I drove on with no more problems.
 
A good friend of mine buried another buddy of his in Iowa last week. He was airing up an old, wore out split rim on the truck when it blew apart. Nuff said
 
Hello Kerry50,

We inflated those rascals in a cage!

Like I said. They've got to go.....!!!!!

Guido.
 
(quoted from post at 08:12:34 07/20/15) Hello Kerry50,

We inflated those rascals in a cage!

Like I said. They've got to go.....!!!!!

Guido.
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Same thing on my 71 F350,but I've got six one-piece rims for it now. Two are on the truck and four in the barn waiting for me although they are all painted up nice after sandblasting. I'm glad this thread came up so I would be more motivated. I read on the rim of a known one piece that fit and found others with same nomenclature. It was Accuride ########.
 
those aren't split rims and they aren't that dangerous. I've had a brand new Michelin spare blow out inside a company van before while I was driving it. It was mounted to the wall of the van and had never been on the ground. So that makes tires dangerous to.....maybe you better get some solid rubber tires.
 
(quoted from post at 13:09:04 07/20/15) those aren't split rims and they aren't that dangerous. I've had a brand new Michelin spare blow out inside a company van before while I was driving it. It was mounted to the wall of the van and had never been on the ground. So that makes tires dangerous to.....maybe you better get some solid rubber tires.
have concluded that 70% of the posters wouldn't know a split rim if it bit them on the rear! To those, anything other than a one piece wheel is a split rim. Wrong! Could at least get the terminology right.
 

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