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ONAN welder generator

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Richard from SE AZ

Member
I have an ONAN welder generator that I used 2 yrs ago but now will not start, No fire to plugs. Need to try and find manual for it. Will someone please explain these numbers for me that are on the info plate.
6.000K 331E/8474L Want to get it started to put it on the market. No longer need it.
 
Can not help with the manual but if it is like the Lincoln I have with the onan engine you need to clean or replace the points. When the one I have has no spark it is always the points
 
I have one that gets used every couple of years also. I agree that it is the points. But when you sell it you will soon find you did need it after all. TDF
 
Don't have my code book handy. But it is a 6.0 CCK the rest is option/production codes and the L is the spec code. Spec code is what you need when looking up parts. But if has been sitting for two years. I agree clean the points. They tend to glaze over. The CCK was the best engine Onan made. Cast iron block and would run forever if taken care of.

Onan tech since 1980.
 
Yep understand the hot thing. Here it is in the low 90s but so humid you can not walk 50 yards with out starting to drip sweat
 
Hello Richard from SE AZ,

I wish you were closer, I would take that welder off your hands. My buzz box from Monkey Ward has been my go to unit. I sure would like to have a dc welder. Just clean the points on the beast, it will probably fire tight up. That would be music to my ears. Did I mention that I would like to have such a machine?

Guido.
 
The old Lincoln I have will fire up most of the time with one or two pulls of the starter rope but the problem is they sure do pull over hard. Been toying with the idea of putting a large pulley on the front of it and use an old starter with a pulley on it to spin it over
 
Hey Rich
How do I take the wheel with the cooling blades off of the shaft. It will not budge. Tapped all around it with a hammer. No go. Hell of a place to put the coil and dist.
 
The only thing under the flywheel. Is the magneto coil and stator. Points are in the small box behind the carb. Has no distributor. There should be two puller bolt holes on the flywheel. Probably need to let the shaft soak. Before trying to pull the wheel.
 
On most of those the only way to change the plug wires is to replace the mag and that can get costly
 
If that's the case with the plug wires then there is no point in going any further. Can you tell me what the point gap is?? The smallest blade I have is .008 and the gap on it now is smaller that that. Blade goes in tight.
 
Should be two coils under the front cover. Not under the flywheel.Email me I can send you the information from the service manual.
 
The gap should probably be right around 0.025 but I am not 100% of what it should be I know that is what I set mine at
 
Ok found the problem. Spec A-G had the normal coil outside the fly wheel.Beginning with spec H to L the coil was under the fly wheel. With the plug wires held into the coil with clips.They can be changed without changing the coil. With spec M and later they went back to the normal style coil.

To get the wheel off. Remove the center bolt and install a puller. Using the bolt holes.I would let it soak awhile.
 
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