Partner K950 Concrete saw

Charles in Aus.

Well-known Member
[color=darkblue:1200714cdc]I posted this request for help in the Stationary engine section , the regulars must be on holiday as I have had no luck so far .
Seems to me that many of you know their way around small engines so I thought I would ask here .
[/color:1200714cdc]

I really need this saw to use for an essential job at my farm .
It was given to me as a non runner I believe it is the same as the Husqvarna 16 '' model with 95cc engine .
I have cleaned the plug , filters ; including the fuel filter in the tank and dismantled the carburrettor and cleaned it as well .
I can start the machine easily enough after some fuel is poured into the carburettor , two or three pulls sees it chug away but it cuts out almost straight away . I can get it to run a little longer and to quite high rpm if I trickle fuel into the open carb .
It has a Tillotson carburettor made in Ireland , the diaphragm has no holes in it but it does seem a little baggy , fuel lines are clear . I just can't get it to suck enough fuel to keep running . It is not a commonly used machine in Australia so any help or suggestions will be gratefully received .

mvphoto22611.jpg
 
Check the compression on it and if it's over 95 psi, clean that carb again and if it does the same thing, put a carb kit in it. If it's less than 95psi, it won't start well at all. I do think you missed something in the carb though.
 
I have a Partner K700 that quit running due to fuel system problems
about a year ago. When I took the carb apart, the inlet needle valve
had a rubber tip which had turned into a mushy blob, maybe due to
ethanol gasoline. A new carb kit got it running right again- it
should be easy to find a kit online. I remember there being some kind
of linkage to the diaphragm which may provide a pumping action. I
don't think that it would run without that linkage properly connected.
A new carb kit along with a shop manual or a rebuild instruction sheet
for the carb should help you get it going.
 
I rebuilt MANY of them that had a lot of hours
that would not run, or run poorly. Many of the
owners had done fuel filters and lines, air filters,
new carburetors, etc. The problem usually was
the crank seals were out, causing it to pull more
air through the crankcase than through the
carb. Usually they just wouldn't start at all, but a
couple did "run" although poorly, terrible throttle
up or no/poor idle. Usually, the offending crank
seal would have much more dust around it than
the other side from sucking air through it,
almost always a dead giveaway of bad crank
seal. The rebuild kit always came with new
crank seals and all gaskets. A couple even had
chunks of case and jug gaskets missing
causing no starts of the same method.

Ross
 
Thank you all , some very good advice and leads as to the problem . The leaky crank seal suggestion is a worry RBoots , lots of rebuild kits available but none here in Australia , between the exchange rate and postage from the US the cost is prohibitive . Would a good gob of grease around the seals stop enough air from leaking in for long enough to at least determine if this is the problem ?
I have never tested the compression on a small engine before Bo , do I do this the same as a big one ; air cleaner off ,throttle open and pull like crazy on the starter ? This machine has a decompression valve , it is almost impossible to pull over without it open . One glimmer of light , a kit for the carb. is only about $8 locally, seems the same carburettor is used on many chainsaws as well .
 
Charles, I'm not sure about the grease, I guess
it's worth a try since it's free. To do a
compression test I just hold the throttle open
and pull it over a few times, I don't know if that's
right or wrong, but works OK for me. I know
about the exchange rates, I bought a
motorcycle piston from England that was no
longer available or able to be found here in the
states. The shipping and all was twice as much
as the piston, luckily the piston was only $25!

Ross
 
Hello Charles in Aus

I would take a look at the fuel filter. Just blow in from the carb line. Bet you is part
of the problem,

Guido.
 
Husqvarna did absorb the Partner name , the dealers here are unfortunately the type that sell rather than repair . Stock answer is usually '' parts no longer available '' or '' computer says no ! ''.
Fuel filter was the first thing I cleaned Guido , next was to remove it completely while trying to determine the cause .
Carb kit is cheap enough , I will try a re clean and new kit first . I will probably have to resort to a big rock drill if I can't get the saw to work .
 
Hello Charles in Aus.

You can feed the carb from another fuel source. I take a long fuel line to do it.It will eliminate that part of the system. Taking the carb apart may be the next step. More often the not just a good clean will do the job.There is a screen inside the carb that usually gets plugged. May be all is wrong with the carb. Unless the diafhram looks bad, it usually is not the problem. Also the jet orifice may be clogged.
My last project,
Good luck,

Guido.
<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto22711.jpg"/>
 
It runs fairly well when fuel is trickled in through air inlet Guido ,just won't suck fuel up from the tank . I hadn't thought of attaching a secondary fuel tank . If I placed this higher than the carburettor then at least I can determine if the engine runs well enough to continue with it , and of course it will show up any blocked jets . By the way those jets are [u:21b139f3a0]small [/u:21b139f3a0]!
 
Hello Charles in Aus


Yes they are! Take few strands of copper wire,twist then together to clean them,

Guido.
 
(quoted from post at 23:55:27 06/15/15) It runs fairly well when fuel is trickled in through air inlet Guido ,just won't suck fuel up from the tank . I hadn't thought of attaching a secondary fuel tank . If I placed this higher than the carburettor then at least I can determine if the engine runs well enough to continue with it , and of course it will show up any blocked jets . By the way those jets are [u:c4dc2112fb]small [/u:c4dc2112fb]!

Hi, I have fixed this same problem this week. Just came across this and I am posting this to let you know what fixed it for me if you still don't have it running.

As this is a diaphragm fed carb the fuel pressure is important in order to pump fuel up to the carb. Take off the top part of the saw, which is the pot, piston, flywheel etc - It is around 4 screws just remove the spring mounts x 3 and one at the front on the bottom and it will pull right off, you can even leave the exhaust on.

Then you will have the Fuel tank separate, on top of the fuel cap there will be a nipple leading to the tank vent - Inspect this line for any cracks as mine was disintegrated which gave no pressure and therefore no fuel to the carb. Replacing this fixed the pressure &amp; fuel delivery to the carb, which now starts with one pull.

Good luck.
 

Thanks Nookster :D
Something to get on with and another possible solution . So I am not dismantling the engine, just separating the tank , handle and carburettor housings in order to get at the fuel hoses that run underneath ?
 
(quoted from post at 00:05:58 07/06/15)
Thanks Nookster :D
Something to get on with and another possible solution . So I am not dismantling the engine, just separating the tank , handle and carburettor housings in order to get at the fuel hoses that run underneath ?

Hi mate,

Yep, it is literally 4 screws then just give it a pull and it will come right apart. Everything stays together, dont need to take the carb, the handle or anything off just those 4 screws and the disconnect Fuel line that goes to the carb and the bottom tank part will come apart from the top part.

The vent hose runs from the nipple along a ridge under where the carb would sit and down the other side of the saw to vent gases, it looks like the other end should be connected but the only thing should be the pipe from the nipple &gt; vent valve &gt; open pipe (which lets gases out) this pipe just hangs down the side of the saw. You will see where it all clips in the grooves if it's not there already.
 
The offending carburettor shown here in pieces . The kit did not take long to fit , neither was it complicated or expensive to buy .
Next job is to investigate the pulse tube mentioned by Ian Beale and the fuel line explained by Nookster .

mvphoto23884.jpg


mvphoto23885.jpg


The corrosion I found under the diaphragm was easily cleaned but did not seem to have been the cause of the trouble .
 
Wow that is dirty! I would take out the welch plug and blast the jet with carb cleaner if your kit came with replacement welch plug (is it the Tillotson HS carb? which has no user tweak able H and L adjustment jets?)

I think you should be looking at an air leak, which is not allowing a proper vacuum and so can't supply enough fuel - so either the impulse line that goes into the top of the carb to the bottom right of the engine head (if looking at it from the trigger side), or the tank vent fuel line I mentioned before, I am 85% sure one of these will be your problem ;-)

Good luck!
 
A badly sprained wrist after a run in with a stroppy ram has caused a few delays :oops:
Following Nookster's advice I pulled the tank off and examined the vent and fuel supply lines carefully . Hidden underneath in an obscure place were a series of cracks in the delivery line , this may well be the problem as predicted by many . I bought some new silicon line and a filter today , wrist allowing I may be able to put it together this afternoon . Starting it may be an issue though , even with the decompression valve it packs a kick !
 
New fuel and vent lines as well as a new fuel filter installed . Reassembled it all and primed the carburettor , three pulls of the starter and some wincing in pain from the wrist and the saw started and ran really well with good power for about twenty minutes before I shut it down :)
A half hour later I tried to start it without priming and had the same short start symptoms , at least this time it started without having to have fuel poured into the carb. It starts on choke after a few pulls , runs well for forty seconds then stumbles and cuts out .
Twenty minutes running would seem to rule out crankcase seals , blocked jets and perished fuel lines .
I need to cut a drain into some soft rock at the front of my new barn to improve drainage . This saw is so close to running that I can almost smell the rock and water slurry!
Any ideas on what to do now ?
 
[size=18:cebe30995f] A big thank you to all those that offered assistance [/size:cebe30995f] :)

The concrete saw is running very well albeit a little smoky , but then what do you expect from a free saw rescued from the scrap heap . Bo ,Jacks, Rboots ,Guido ,Nookster and Ian Beale all took the time and patience to talk me through this . I almost gave up a few times but the thought of always being able to ask further questions kept me at it .
So a combination of a dirty magneto/ flywheel , perished fuel and vent lines , lousy filter and a carburettor full of poo all conspired to keep it from running .
Now I can stop the gallons of water pouring in under the door of my new barn and threatening my lovely old Ferguson tractors .


mvphoto25092.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 21:13:30 07/27/15) [size=18:0b279ec087] A big thank you to all those that offered assistance [/size:0b279ec087] :)

The concrete saw is running very well albeit a little smoky , but then what do you expect from a free saw rescued from the scrap heap . Bo ,Jacks, Rboots ,Guido ,Nookster and Ian Beale all took the time and patience to talk me through this . I almost gave up a few times but the thought of always being able to ask further questions kept me at it .
So a combination of a dirty magneto/ flywheel , perished fuel and vent lines , lousy filter and a carburettor full of poo all conspired to keep it from running .
Now I can stop the gallons of water pouring in under the door of my new barn and threatening my lovely old Ferguson tractors .


mvphoto25092.jpg

I just found this thread again to check your progress out of interest and I am glad you have got it working! The cracks in the fuel pipe would have stopped fuel being pumped up to the carb! A good all round clean and service and spark plug always goes a long way too, might be worth running a bit of wynns fuel system cleaner (or equivalent) through it for a tank or so, and maybe a few blasts of carb cleaner through the air filter while its running to get rid of that smoke, one tank of that and a bit of carb cleaner and it will be running smooth and smoke free ;-). Congrats on getting it going - Satisfying when it starts isn't it?!

P.s. You want nitrile fuel line as silicone will probably dissolve with time ;)
 

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