Bleeding Anti-lock Brakes

Glenn F.

Member
Is there a trick to bleeding the anti-lock brakes on an '08 Impala? I replaced the front callipers as they were leaking. The master cylinder may have been okay' but well...it's been replaced. I can't get more than a dribble out of the he bleeders.

Thank you,
Glenn F.
 
From what I understand you have to have a scanner to be able to bleed the newer brakes. Have to be able to put it in the bleed mode.
 
Did you bench bleed the mc? If not, take it back off, get all the air out, try again. It may have air in the antilock pump now, can be hard to get it out.

I have reverse bled them with good success. A simple NEW, UNUSED, FLUSHED pump type oil can will work. Just fill it with brake fluid, pump until you get a solid stream, connect it to a clean bleeder screw with a short piece of vinyl tubing. Open the bleeder and pump until no bubbles come up in the mc. Be careful to keep the can full so not to put in any air! Continue with each wheel.
 
I just did mine and used a vacume pump with bleeder kit. Midiy vac ? or something like that. Not too high priced at parts stores.
 
Hello Glenn F,

Get A piece of hose that fits over the bleeder screw. Get a glass jar and put enough fluid to cover the hose coming from the bleeder......NOW just make sure the master cylinder is full. Go down and up with the bleeder open with the brake pedal until all bubbles are gone. You can use your hand or your foot. Keep checking the master cylinder so you won't run it low, and put air back in the system. Simple as that......

Guido.
 
The ABS system is a "pass through" or normally closed system allowing normal brake operation, if any air enters the normal brake circuits it should flow through. There is a procedure for bleeding ABS systems but that's mainly if you've had the ABS side of the system open or replaced the ABS hydraulic unit.

Basically if there was air in the ABS side of the system you would still have normal brake operation. If you have air in the normal side of the system it should bleed through the ABS system. A scan tool is require to do the automated ABS bleed procedure.
 
Got a Ranger I need to replace brake lines on, downhill from the ABS block.

Thinking I'm going to put plugs in the ABS block as I remove the old lines, keeping the MC full, so as not to get air in the block to begin with.

Dunno how it will work in practice, but sounds good.

Fred
 
I've always just gravity bled them.

Take the cap off the master cylinder, open the bleeder valve on each caliper or wheel cylinder in succession, and wait until a solid stream of fluid comes out of the bleeder valve, then close the valve. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder.
 
Is that one of GMs bright idea designs where the master cylinder is lower than the ABS unit ? If so they are a PITA to bleed , you need to bench bleed the master cylinder then hold it above the ABS unit or the lines from the MC to the ABS just trap air and you will be fighting it forever . Hold the MC up and crack the lines until air bubbles quit coming out then tighten them and do the normal bleed. You can bypass the need for a scan tool to do the ABS bleed if you have some gravel roads or parking lot ( ice and snow covered even better) just get going and slam on the brakes a few times so that the ABS activates , that will push the air out of the ABS unit on down to the calipers/wheel cylinders then you can bleed again normally and be good .learned that a long time ago at a Ford ABS class believe it or not .
 

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