Torque Wrenches

Lakeguy

Member
Today I pulled the chevy 6 cylinder out of my I/O boat after blowing 3 head gaskets. The motor was getting tired and I had one out of a scrapped boat.I tore the spare down, replaced the seals and installed a new Head gasket. last month I purchased a used SK beam type torque wrench at an auction and it required a lot more effort to torque the head bolts to 95 ft lbs than it had with my Williams click type wrench. When I put the SK on the motor with the blown head gasket the head bolts turned 1/2 to 2/3 before registering the proper torque. Lesson learned, my 2 click type are going in for recalibration. Do you trust yours?
 
yes mine goes in every year for checking. do yourself a favor, when you get them back recheck the torque on the head. those beam type get weak at the flex point and give false readings
 
I don't know of any place around here that calibrates torque wrenches so I bought one of these gizmos from Amazon.

ACDelco ARM602-4 1/2-Inch Torque Measurement Adapter 4-147.6 ft-lbs

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-4-Measurement-Adapter-4-147-6/dp/B004VYURT0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1429832828&sr=8-1&keywords=torque+meter

It works like a champ. It not only allowed me to check my two torque wrenches, it also allows me to use any socket driver as a torque wrench.

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto19733.jpg"/>
 
Learned years ago to ONLY test a beam type torque wrench due to the fact few click type ever get calibrated from the factory and I even have 2 beam type to compare to each other so be sure
 
As a shadetree mechanic I don't use my click type torque wrenches as much as a professional but I recently sent one in for recalibration. It had never been calibrated since I bought it from a Mac tool dealer (it was a Mac brand) years ago. However, when it was certified and returned, they noted that it was originally still within specs so I have full confidence in this particular one.
 
I get mine recalibrated every other year or so. If you don't... it will probably be out of spec. I still trust it more than a beam type. Even if it's off a bit, at least it's off by the same amount on each one. A beam is still only a guess.

Rod
 
There's lots of cheap torque wrenches out there. I'm holding out for a snap on or Mac. It may be good new but for how long?

Clickers need to be zeroed for storage. SK says to return it to the lowest calibration. That's how they ship them.
 
Do you trust yours. YES

The local snap-on truck has a checker on board my SK's have always been dead nuts :D I have wore out a few and would hesitate on buying a use one.
 
I use a beam style torque wrench to check the calibration of my Snap-On click style wrenches. In over 30 years I have not found the calibration to change on any of the three that I have.
 
Out of the box they come with a calibration certificate. A.C. Delco also offers a recalibration service for $25 which includes return shipping.
 
I have a 3/8 Snap-On and always zero it out any time it's not in use even if it's going to be 10 minutes before next use.
 
My son is a aircraft AME and all aircraft maintainec workshops have torgue wrench calibrators He tests mine wen ever i need never had problems with my clic type
 
No! The other thing I like about the beam is you can see where you are and where you are going. With the snapper, you just sit in suspended animation till it goes click, wondering if it's going to click before you twist the bolt in half.

On cal, the beam has no "mechanism" requiring recalibration. The beam is a beam and isn't about to change any time soon.

Mark
 
Yes, I do trust mine. I have Snap-on torque wrenches, and they have stayed in calibration for as long as I have owned them. As to the beam vs. click type, I say this much:
The beam is hard to read while using the higher end of the scale. You need to get your line of sight in line with the indicator to read accurately and to avoid parallax error. Then there are those tight spots like the rear head on a front drive V-6. Go ahead! Try to read a beam while holding 75 ft-lbs or so! That is the whole reason that the clickers were invented. Even on an old straight 8 flathead, it is HARD TO READ a beam while holding the correct(?) torque. And, if it is not correctly in your line of sight, parallax error can throw your reading off by as much as 15 ft-lbs.
 
I prefer my click type wrenches but the beam style has its place too. When setting bearing preload you can't read rolling torque with a click style.
 
True. I have both types. Just posting my preference and don't remember the last time I had to use the beam in an awkward situation.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top