I'm planning on building a dog run sometime in the next few weeks and I think 1/8" cable will work just fine but I wonder which would be better, coated or uncoated. I don't know how the coating will stand up to the repeated wear of the pulley or how UV might affect it. Any thoughts or ideas from someone who has made one? I'm planning on making mine close to 200' long to give my pooch plenty of room.
- Thread starter Sidekick
- Start date
I have to put one up every once in a while when watching my daughter's almost 200lb chocolate Lab. I use nylon chokers around two trees and 3/8 inch wire rope, (not coated) with an eye in each end. I use a come-a-long at one end so I can tighten the wire rope up as it droops. I learned real quick not to use a pulley! I found a small shackle with the pin moused works better than a pulley.
spacecadet9
Member
Our run is about 60' long with 1/8" coated cable and a pulley. One end is into the 4x8 header of our carport, the other end is connected to a tree. Originally when the dog would 'charge' an invading critter it sounded like the carport was coming down. I put 4 bungies on the carport end to cure that problem, they also keep tension on the cable. The pulley is like a small snatch block, the sides are open on one end and the sheave can be removed by pulling the axle. Ice can build up on the cable and if thick enough it will impede the pulley range. If you're going 200' the middle will sag unless you tighten it up like a piano string.
The pulley / snatch block always seems to rotate, and not come back where the bail is on the bottom. Sheave weighs more than the bail. Guess a guy could add a little weight to the bail to force it to rotate correctly. Use a 3/4 inch CM or Crosby shackle and it will take quite some time for the wire rope to hacksaw through the shackle.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I had a crazy a$$ husky, on a run, for a coupla years, she kept breakin the 3/16 cable, so I put a garage door spring, on one end! Funniest thing to see that 70 lb husky hit the end of the reach of the chain, then launch herself backwards, about 6 feet, when that spring caught up with her! She wore out about 3 heavy duty snatch blocks, in the 10 years I had her!
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I had a crazy a$$ husky, on a run, for a coupla years, she kept breakin the 3/16 cable, so I put a garage door spring, on one end! Funniest thing to see that 70 lb husky hit the end of the reach of the chain, then launch herself backwards, about 6 feet, when that spring caught up with her! She wore out about 3 heavy duty snatch blocks, in the 10 years I had her!
Fergienewbee
Well-known Member
A 200-foot long cable would give me some thoughts about sag, especially with 1/8" cable. Why such a long run? I have a 3/16" cable on my 16' training table and it sags a bit in the middle.
Larry
Larry
showcrop
Well-known Member
When I was a kid we had a beagle for probably about ten years on a run that was about 50 ft. It was made of single strand galvanized steel which was retired telephone wire from when there was a separate wire for each customer. It would probably be hard to find wire like that now. We didn't have a pulley but had to put a new sliding ring on it every 3-4 years.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known Member
Cable run is illegal in my county. Too much chance for the dog to be attacked by other dogs, coyote, etc, and unable to get away.
Charles
Charles
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I have about 150' of 1/2" stainless steel cable with a trolley on it between two telephone poles. It's fixed on both ends to keep cable tight. Have a spring in the cable so when the dog comes to the end of his chain he doesn't have a dead jolt. I have a 100lb. Black Lab.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I have about 150' of 1/2" stainless steel cable with a trolley on it between two telephone poles. It's fixed on both ends to keep cable tight. Have a spring in the cable so when the dog comes to the end of his chain he doesn't have a dead jolt. I have a 100lb. Black Lab.
I've got a black lab weighing in around 70 lbs and I use a 1/8 coated cable strung between two trees. Like others have said, mine also has a spring on one end, and the other is attached solid around the tree. I put the run about 7 years ago and even after him being on it nearly every day the majority of the coating is still on it. The pulley I put on it broke through the axel about 3 years in and he had a nice run around the neighborhood, 'til he decided to come home, with 15 feet of cable trailing behind him. From that point on all I do is hook the snap hook over the cable. Been doing that for the 4 years since the pulley broke and it's worn maybe 1/4 of the way through the hook. I'll probably change it before too long just so the cable doesn't get worn out riding in the notch. I guess the weight of the dog, and how much time he spends actually running the length of the cable will vary the life expectancy of a hook.
One thing to watch out for is to make sure your dog has plenty of water situated in an area where it's not liable to get caught up in the cable and get knocked over. It took me a week or so of putting buckets of water in several different places, after getting mine set up, to get one placed that he wouldn't knock over within a few minutes. Even now it's straight out from the run, toward one end, and he has maybe 2 feet of slack cable left when he gets to it. Unfortunately he will still knock it over on occasion if he gets too excited over something. But he has a house to get in, and plenty of shade during the summer so on the rare occasion that he goes without water for a few hours it doesn't seem to bother him.
One thing to watch out for is to make sure your dog has plenty of water situated in an area where it's not liable to get caught up in the cable and get knocked over. It took me a week or so of putting buckets of water in several different places, after getting mine set up, to get one placed that he wouldn't knock over within a few minutes. Even now it's straight out from the run, toward one end, and he has maybe 2 feet of slack cable left when he gets to it. Unfortunately he will still knock it over on occasion if he gets too excited over something. But he has a house to get in, and plenty of shade during the summer so on the rare occasion that he goes without water for a few hours it doesn't seem to bother him.
Between myself, my parents who have property right behind me, and several neighbors who don't care, mine would have several hundred acres to roam around on if he wanted to. Unfortunately all if takes is for him to decide to cross the road, roam out a little further, or whatever, to be on someone's property that does care. In that case he gets his butt locked up, I have to call around to find him, and it costs an arm and a leg to get him "out of jail", depending on how many days he is locked up.
When mine was allowed to roam free he stayed around home 99.9% of the time. This also held true with the other 8 dogs I've had in the last 20 years that ran free all of their lives. The problem comes in when you get a call from someone who lives 8 miles away saying they just found your dog, you see them 4 miles from the house setting in a field looking at you as you are headed to town, etc, etc. In years past this wasn't a problem but as too many 'city folk' moved into the country it quickly became a problem since they freak out when they see a dog that isn't theirs in their yard, wether he's acting agressive or not, and automatically call the pound.
Then there's always the situatin I'm in where I had a dog that ran free, legally, for the first two years I had him. Then the County decided that due to the problems listed above with the invading 'city folk', their Rotweillers, etc, that they needed a "leash law" that covered anyone who owned less than 5 acres, even if the animal had a hundred acres to freely roam around on. Personally I hate keeping mine cabled up but for right now it's for his own good. That is until I can find a shock collar that will keep his stubborn a$$ within the confines of the 4.5 acre area I put an invisible fence around.
That said, given the known area just my one dog roamed, knowing that dogs will routinely travel that far and further(( especially if there is a female in heat)), and based on your assertion, in order to own a dog a person would need to own a minimum of 49 square miles, or 31,360 acres to even think about owning a dog.
Do you own that much land ???????????
When mine was allowed to roam free he stayed around home 99.9% of the time. This also held true with the other 8 dogs I've had in the last 20 years that ran free all of their lives. The problem comes in when you get a call from someone who lives 8 miles away saying they just found your dog, you see them 4 miles from the house setting in a field looking at you as you are headed to town, etc, etc. In years past this wasn't a problem but as too many 'city folk' moved into the country it quickly became a problem since they freak out when they see a dog that isn't theirs in their yard, wether he's acting agressive or not, and automatically call the pound.
Then there's always the situatin I'm in where I had a dog that ran free, legally, for the first two years I had him. Then the County decided that due to the problems listed above with the invading 'city folk', their Rotweillers, etc, that they needed a "leash law" that covered anyone who owned less than 5 acres, even if the animal had a hundred acres to freely roam around on. Personally I hate keeping mine cabled up but for right now it's for his own good. That is until I can find a shock collar that will keep his stubborn a$$ within the confines of the 4.5 acre area I put an invisible fence around.
That said, given the known area just my one dog roamed, knowing that dogs will routinely travel that far and further(( especially if there is a female in heat)), and based on your assertion, in order to own a dog a person would need to own a minimum of 49 square miles, or 31,360 acres to even think about owning a dog.
Do you own that much land ???????????
I have made several using high tensile fence wire rather than cable. It is strong and is smoother than cable. You can use just a simple slip ring rather than a pulley. The high tensile wire seems to have enough galvanize in it to not rust either. The cost is much lower than good cable too.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Not to start an argument, but if you ever had tinitus, you wouldn't wish it on anyone except your MIL and for sure not your best friend which is what one of them cable runs usually lead to.... I read something once about something that is supposed to be a good choice of materials to minimize the effect......
I've seen dogs drive themselves nuts running back and forth chasing and/or running from the sound which you won't necessarily hear to the point that they weren't worth anything else but running back and forth.
A pully with a lubeable set of bearings will be a real good start.
Good Luck.
You know, after googling, I can't really find anything so bad anymore.... My experience was 20+ years ago and folks were prolly just snapping the chain hook over the wire (which would make a screach to drive anyone that had to constantly hear it crazy)... Also, the dogs themselves were prolly as inbred as the folks that had em on a chain to begin with.....
Think if I was to do it, I'd go with a pully big enough (4 inches?) that it wouldn't zoom so fast it made a high pitch noise and if I noticed a change in the dog's temperament, stop using it.
I've seen dogs drive themselves nuts running back and forth chasing and/or running from the sound which you won't necessarily hear to the point that they weren't worth anything else but running back and forth.
A pully with a lubeable set of bearings will be a real good start.
Good Luck.
You know, after googling, I can't really find anything so bad anymore.... My experience was 20+ years ago and folks were prolly just snapping the chain hook over the wire (which would make a screach to drive anyone that had to constantly hear it crazy)... Also, the dogs themselves were prolly as inbred as the folks that had em on a chain to begin with.....
Think if I was to do it, I'd go with a pully big enough (4 inches?) that it wouldn't zoom so fast it made a high pitch noise and if I noticed a change in the dog's temperament, stop using it.
One more thing I thought of that might help you, when we had horses and went for weekend or week long trail rides we would hi-line the horses at night. We used 3/4-inch bungee cord, you can buy it by the roll at the hardware store. I would half hitch it around the large snaps, and use dental floss to mouse the tail end of the bungee cord. Just give the dog / horse enough bungee cord to reach the ground. This way they're not walking on the cord all the time.
Marry Christmas! :wink:
Marry Christmas! :wink:
Tim Casbolt
Member
I use a 50' coated cable from Tractor Supply. Works fine. No problems of any kind since March. Although he (25 lb. Puggle) does wear out chains every few months.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
gotta see that dog.... got any pics????
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Yeah, I forgot to mention, I also ran a bout 8' of copper lightening rod wire down to a good ground post, to keep coconut from getting fried, if lightening were to strike. Always a good idea!
I have had an overhead dog run for my 45# part husky for about 6 years now. At first I put in 3/16" coated steel wire rope. I immediately found out why you don't want coated wire rope. The clamps don't hold worth a flip. When you strip back the plastic coating the wire rusts and then snaps. My dog has torn through the wire at least 6 times.
I just switched to 1/4" SS cable (part of an antenna I got off of ebay). Much better.
Everything should be triple clamped and you should use thimbles at each end.
I used telephone poles with the overhead wire at 8'. Each one has a guy wire to a ground screw. I even had to add 240# of concrete to my ground anchors to get them to hold for the dog. Last week she managed to bend a 1/4" SS eye to almost straight. I am now upgrading to 3/8" hardware.
All for a 45# dog.
Cliff(VA)
I just switched to 1/4" SS cable (part of an antenna I got off of ebay). Much better.
Everything should be triple clamped and you should use thimbles at each end.
I used telephone poles with the overhead wire at 8'. Each one has a guy wire to a ground screw. I even had to add 240# of concrete to my ground anchors to get them to hold for the dog. Last week she managed to bend a 1/4" SS eye to almost straight. I am now upgrading to 3/8" hardware.
All for a 45# dog.
Cliff(VA)
Hello, I was reading your reply to dog cable run and you had stated that you have a spring on one end of the tree and none on the other side.....How does this work with tension? I'm going to have a really long cable so I will need to make it really tight due to the weight of the cable....I was thinking of having one turnbuckle on each end of the tree and a spring on the dog "leash" part.
So how does its stay tight with the spring when tightening the cable? I'm new to this.
Thank you for your input. Have a great day, v
So how does its stay tight with the spring when tightening the cable? I'm new to this.
Thank you for your input. Have a great day, v
YOU ARE DOING IT ALL WRONG!!! 
Just kidding. My dog runs are on the ground and here is how they are constructed.
I took 2 big long eye bolts about 12 – 14 inches long. Attached an end of a 3/8 cable to each and drove them into the ground. Attached the dog leash to the cable with S hooks a lot larger than the cable so it will slide along the cable. Cable and all are on the ground and is easy to mow over as long as you go parallel with the cable.
:shock:
Just kidding. My dog runs are on the ground and here is how they are constructed. I took 2 big long eye bolts about 12 – 14 inches long. Attached an end of a 3/8 cable to each and drove them into the ground. Attached the dog leash to the cable with S hooks a lot larger than the cable so it will slide along the cable. Cable and all are on the ground and is easy to mow over as long as you go parallel with the cable.
:shock:
Dave H (MI)
Well-known Member
I did that also but it did not work for long. It's been a couple of years but the dog somehow got the better of it eventually and was loose.
(quoted from post at 17:22:08 03/25/15) YOU ARE DOING IT ALL WRONG!!!
I took 2 big long eye bolts about 12 – 14 inches long. Attached an end of a 3/8 cable to each and drove them into the ground. Attached the dog leash to the cable with S hooks a lot larger than the cable so it will slide along the cable. Cable and all are on the ground and is easy to mow over as long as you go parallel with the cable.
:shock:
I agree keep the cable on the ground. I use them for goats and calves too. move them on the bank to keep it mowed.
My first dog had cable on ground with with repair chain link to slide on cable. It did not work out well because he would wear out 3-4 repair links a year from sliding on ground (Grit and dirt hard in links). Latter I went with cable fastened to two telephone poles and a trolley and dog would wear out a trolley about every year and half. Cable on ground does not work well if you get a lot of snow in winter.
DENNIS MIN
Member
Pburchett,
The mellow yellow female lab loved the overhead run she had. Used a pulley and allowed about five feet short on each end using a cable clamp.
Dog loved the ability to get shade or sun when she wanted.
D.
The mellow yellow female lab loved the overhead run she had. Used a pulley and allowed about five feet short on each end using a cable clamp.
Dog loved the ability to get shade or sun when she wanted.
D.
I've got a Lab that has had to be on a run for going on 10 years now, due to constantly running off and getting into trouble. I tried the invisible fence, and he would run right through it. What I found works is the red vinyl coated cable that they have for runs at places like Home Depot. It's a 75 foot cable with a spring tensioner at one end, and also has about a 10 foot lead, and a trolley. I simply hook the cable up to my existing tie in points, between two trees, and about 6 feet off the ground, using the tensioner made on one end of the longer cable. For him to run I use a piece of chain with nothing but a heavy snap hook on both ends. I started using the snap hooks when he broke the trolley, and have never had a problem with it coming lose, or anything else. In fact it actually has a worn spot in it from running on the cable. The cables tend to last about 3 years before breaking. In fact ever break I've had has been at the end that has the eye already made into it when purchased. I could just put another eye in it, but by the three year mark I simply spend the $20 or so dollars and get a whole new setup.
I have around 100 ft. of 1/8" cable I bought at Rural King years ago off the chain and cable racks. I use the eyes and clamps made for it and hook both ends to something high enough I can walk under. For a trolley I soon learned the ones sold in stores do not last. Co worker told me he would use 2 pieces of good steel and sandwich a bearing in the middle. Like an alternator bearing on one end and bolt a chain in the other. Use a real chain too in a small size. Not the ones they sell for dogs as those are junk. I used to use the swivel clip on the end with the jaws that bypass but lately the springs inside of those don't last. This will make a good heavy duty long lasting setup.
P.S. Those vinyl covered cable kits sold for pets are JUNK TOO ! Using one of those on the lead to the dog is a disaster for the dog. With a few kinks and twists it will soon start to fray apart. My dogs face was getting all scratched up and I did not notice the cables sticking out. Next day the whole thing broke and away he went down across the road and into the neighbors above ground swimming pool. Neighbor was ticked ! said the dog would of drowned if he didn't come home to fish it out of there.
P.S. Those vinyl covered cable kits sold for pets are JUNK TOO ! Using one of those on the lead to the dog is a disaster for the dog. With a few kinks and twists it will soon start to fray apart. My dogs face was getting all scratched up and I did not notice the cables sticking out. Next day the whole thing broke and away he went down across the road and into the neighbors above ground swimming pool. Neighbor was ticked ! said the dog would of drowned if he didn't come home to fish it out of there.
Your right, the kit, as a whole, isn't good for anything but a small dog, mainly because the trolley is junk. As far as the cable lead, the wire is OK, but like you said a few kinks and broken wires, and it's no good since it can hurt both the dog and you.
That aside, the cable used in the kit is no different than the cable you buy off the spool, and I have tried both. In fact the first one I put up came off the spool, and was the uncoated type. It only lasted about a year and a half before it broke. When I went back to the store for more I happened to see the kit, and the cost for the whole kit was less than the cost for the wire alone when you had to buy it by the foot, especially if you wanted the vinyl coated stuff. So, I gave it a try and, like I said, the cable is just as good, if not better for the run. Beyond that you are much better off doing something else for a trolley (if used) and then use a decent chain for the lead.
That aside, the cable used in the kit is no different than the cable you buy off the spool, and I have tried both. In fact the first one I put up came off the spool, and was the uncoated type. It only lasted about a year and a half before it broke. When I went back to the store for more I happened to see the kit, and the cost for the whole kit was less than the cost for the wire alone when you had to buy it by the foot, especially if you wanted the vinyl coated stuff. So, I gave it a try and, like I said, the cable is just as good, if not better for the run. Beyond that you are much better off doing something else for a trolley (if used) and then use a decent chain for the lead.
showcrop
Well-known Member
When I was a kid we had a beagle on a run for a good number of years. It was not cable but single strand wire. At that time it was old telephone wire. 12 gauge galv. steel. It never wore nor broke. More recently the same type of wire is used for high tensile elec. fence wire, although the last time I got some high tensile fence wire it was aluminum. To slide the chain on the wire we had a heavy steel ring that was about 5/16 and about three inches in diam. It never wore because it kept bouncing around. The whole set-up was very low maintenance even though it really took a beating.
Yep - I use #9 galvanized wire on an 80 ft. run with a small pulley - the tie from the pulley to the collar is 3/8" nylon rope with the last 3 feet to the collar being light chain (young dog, liked to chew) - there are 1/8" cable clamps at each end that prevent him from going around the tree or pole that supports either end of the trolley wire - it's about 13' off of the ground and has lasted over 10 years
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