Chainsaw repair time

David G · Feb 22, 2015

I have a Husqvarna 137 chain saw, that has a lot of hours on it, but runs great. It is not oiling now. I am still taking it apart and cleaning up, but anyone ever worked on them?

Randy Shoe · Feb 22, 2015

I haven't ever worked on a husky that small but think they all oil on the same order. Take clutch off and behind it is a little metal oiler gear and a plastic worm gear that runs off the smaller metal one. The plastic worm gear may be worn and striped or the set screw that holds the metal gear tight on it's shaft could have backed out. Not a big job, might pay to look. As I remember, clutch turns off CCW. Use air wrench. Hope I'm not steering you wrong. I ran huskys for many years cutting commercial timber and then switched to Stihl twenty years ago. Make sure oil tank filter is not plugged first.

T.R.K. · Feb 22, 2015

1. The clutch goes off clockwise. there will be an arrow on it.
2. There will probably not be a setscrew on the worm gear. It will be either a friction fit to the crankshaft or will have notches that drive off the clutch bell.
3. When I replace the oil pump, I put the rubber hoses to and from it in too. If the customer has used regular motor oil, the additives tend to attack the rubber so it does not seal around the pump anymore.

David G · Feb 22, 2015

It looks to me like the pinion gear is metal and the oil pump is plastic, so I would assume that is probably the issue.

Geo-TH,In · Feb 23, 2015

NO, haven't worked on it. My chainsaw oiler doesn't like extremely cold thick oil. I add a little ATF to thin oil winter time bar oil. Then it works great with thinner oil, chain is very oily. I figure thinner oil is better than no oil.

Bret4207 · Feb 23, 2015

Worked on quite a few over the years. THis time of year first thing to check is oil viscosity. You need winter grade B+C oil in the cold. You can thin it with diesel, ATF, whatever too. Beyond that, first thing is to see if the bar oil holes are blocked. Happens over time. Clean the bar groove and oil holes. It's a good time to deburr the bar too. Check the oil outlet by the studs for blockage. If none of that is the issue, you need to check the pump. Not unusual for the plastic gear to strip, especially if using summer B+C oil in winter. Pretty easy to replace the pump. If that isn't the issue, and you should see a stripped or seized pump easily, then it could be the line in the oil tank or the filter on the line. It could also be the filter has ice in it. I'd get it warm first and try it again.

David G · Feb 23, 2015

I keep the oil inside where it is heated, started this fall with the problem.

David G · Feb 23, 2015

How do you deburr the bar?

Jiles · Feb 23, 2015

(quoted from post at 16:32:53 02/23/15) How do you deburr the bar?

The way I debur a chainsaw bar, is with a belt sander with bar clamped in a vise. If you use a file, consider that bars are hardened.
As far as the oil pump, I believe it is the same saw as a 141, only smaller.
With that being said, the pump is removable after removing the clutch. As stated, it is left hand thread and crankshaft must be kept from turning. The metal worm gear is a press fit on crankshaft and doesn't require removal.
Biggest job is clutch removal and I can go into detail if you wish.

Bret4207 · Feb 23, 2015

Is the saw kept where it's warm and does the oil issue start after it;s been outside or all the time?

Deburring is just running a file at an angle along the edge of the bar where the burr builds up. Bars are tempered, but not "hardened" and cut pretty easy with a decent file.

johnlobb · Feb 23, 2015

If your gonna remove the clutch, a good way to keep the nut from turning is to remove the spark plug, then thread some clothesline into the inside of the cylinder through the spark plug hole. That will keep the crank from turning. Put the piston down to bottom dead center first.

Jiles · Feb 23, 2015

(quoted from post at 19:26:33 02/23/15)
Is the saw kept where it's warm and does the oil issue start after it;s been outside or all the time?

Deburring is just running a file at an angle along the edge of the bar where the burr builds up. [b:01ce7b94df]Bars are tempered, but not "hardened" [/b:01ce7b94df]and cut pretty easy with a decent file.

[b:01ce7b94df]Tempering[/b:01ce7b94df] is a process of heat treating, which is used to increase the toughness of iron-based alloys.[b:01ce7b94df] Tempering is usually performed after hardening, to reduce some of the excess hardness[/b:01ce7b94df].

Geo-TH,In · Feb 23, 2015

I would drain the oil, remove the bar, then see if #1 diesel to flush out the system before I took it apart.

D beatty · Feb 23, 2015

I would also give the oil tank and bar a good cleaning first before taking it all apart. No matter how good you clean around cap stuff still gets in tank. It doesn't take much dirt and dust to plug holes on bar.

Bret4207 · Feb 24, 2015

(quoted from post at 15:42:19 02/23/15)

(quoted from post at 19:26:33 02/23/15)
Is the saw kept where it's warm and does the oil issue start after it;s been outside or all the time?

Deburring is just running a file at an angle along the edge of the bar where the burr builds up. [b:93b2737c1a]Bars are tempered, but not "hardened" [/b:93b2737c1a]and cut pretty easy with a decent file.

Click to expand...

[b:93b2737c1a]Tempering[/b:93b2737c1a] is a process of heat treating, which is used to increase the toughness of iron-based alloys.[b:93b2737c1a] Tempering is usually performed after hardening, to reduce some of the excess hardness[/b:93b2737c1a].

Jiles, not to argue, but I've never seen a bar I couldn't deburr with a decent file. "Hardened" implies that it's going to be tough to cut with a file or drill. They aren't hardened. Some aren't even tempered at all I don't think. If you can't deburr with a file, the file is probably shot. A belt or disc grinder works fine, but some folks tend to go way too far with power tools. That's why I recommend a file. Usually all you have is a tiny burr that's a 5 stroke problem to fix.

Jiles · Feb 24, 2015

(quoted from post at 13:37:47 02/24/15)

(quoted from post at 15:42:19 02/23/15)

(quoted from post at 19:26:33 02/23/15)
Is the saw kept where it's warm and does the oil issue start after it;s been outside or all the time?

Deburring is just running a file at an angle along the edge of the bar where the burr builds up. [b:26fa3b3ba2]Bars are tempered, but not "hardened" [/b:26fa3b3ba2]and cut pretty easy with a decent file.

Click to expand...

[b:26fa3b3ba2]Tempering[/b:26fa3b3ba2] is a process of heat treating, which is used to increase the toughness of iron-based alloys.[b:26fa3b3ba2] Tempering is usually performed after hardening, to reduce some of the excess hardness[/b:26fa3b3ba2].

Click to expand...

Jiles, not to argue, but I've never seen a bar I couldn't deburr with a decent file. "Hardened" implies that it's going to be tough to cut with a file or drill. They aren't hardened. Some aren't even tempered at all I don't think. If you can't deburr with a file, the file is probably shot. A belt or disc grinder works fine, but some folks tend to go way too far with power tools. That's why I recommend a file. Usually all you have is a tiny burr that's a 5 stroke problem to fix.

Where in my post did I say a file could not be used?
I guess, over the years, I have deburred hundreds of bars.
When I do a job, I try to do a thorough job. This included filing the top groove flat as well as deburring the corners.
Edge can be filed really easy with a file, but try to file the top flat.
I do not argue on a forum. I am a retired Tool & Die Maker and consider any metal that has been through a heat treating process to be hardened don't know what a bar would be on Rockwell Scale in hardness?
Interesting that you brought this up--never been questioned before.
We just have a different understanding of "Hardened Metal", but can still be friends.

Bret4207 · Feb 25, 2015

(quoted from post at 15:52:01 02/24/15)

(quoted from post at 13:37:47 02/24/15)

(quoted from post at 15:42:19 02/23/15)

(quoted from post at 19:26:33 02/23/15)
Is the saw kept where it's warm and does the oil issue start after it;s been outside or all the time?

Deburring is just running a file at an angle along the edge of the bar where the burr builds up. [b:8c17693290]Bars are tempered, but not "hardened" [/b:8c17693290]and cut pretty easy with a decent file.

Click to expand...

[b:8c17693290]Tempering[/b:8c17693290] is a process of heat treating, which is used to increase the toughness of iron-based alloys.[b:8c17693290] Tempering is usually performed after hardening, to reduce some of the excess hardness[/b:8c17693290].

Click to expand...

Jiles, not to argue, but I've never seen a bar I couldn't deburr with a decent file. "Hardened" implies that it's going to be tough to cut with a file or drill. They aren't hardened. Some aren't even tempered at all I don't think. If you can't deburr with a file, the file is probably shot. A belt or disc grinder works fine, but some folks tend to go way too far with power tools. That's why I recommend a file. Usually all you have is a tiny burr that's a 5 stroke problem to fix.

Click to expand...

Where in my post did I say a file could not be used?
I guess, over the years, I have deburred hundreds of bars.
When I do a job, I try to do a thorough job. This included filing the top groove flat as well as deburring the corners.
Edge can be filed really easy with a file, but try to file the top flat.
I do not argue on a forum. I am a retired Tool & Die Maker and consider any metal that has been through a heat treating process to be hardened don't know what a bar would be on Rockwell Scale in hardness?
Interesting that you brought this up--never been questioned before.
We just have a different understanding of "Hardened Metal", but can still be friends.

Well. that's the problem with the internet- you can read the words a guy is writing, but you can't hear the inflection or "read" what he's getting at. I thought you were implying he'd need a grinder or abrasive disc to deburr a bar. Now I getchya! I've always deburred any bar that needed it that came through my shop, cleaned the bar groove and oil holes, greased the roller tip if it's got one. A lot of people don't even know to that.

Chainsaw repair time

David G

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Randy Shoe

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T.R.K.

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David G

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Geo-TH,In

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Bret4207

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David G

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David G

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Jiles

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Bret4207

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johnlobb

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Jiles

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D beatty

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