Spray Lube, WD-40, etc.

DelMN

Member
OK, what kind of spray lube does everyone prefer? I use Justice Bros and it works great for general stuff and pretty good for tight bolts. Have used WD40, Marvel but JB seems better.
 
This stuff is a world beater , and Australian made as well . A little more expensive than some but has lasting properties . Used in marine and weapon applications for corrosion resistance and superior lubrication .

http://www.inoxmx.com/
 
Depends on what the application is, many different types of lube...

I like PB Blaster for rust penetration, but typically use whatever I find first.

WD40 is not a lubricant! (W)ater (D)isplacement formula # (40) is what the name stands for. It was developed as a short term rust and corrosion preservative for storage.
 
I'm cheap, I buy WD40 by gallon. WD40 sells a spray bottle to put the oil in. If WD40 doesn't work, I get the tourch out, heat usually works.
 

my usual is ATF in a squirt can. my aerosol penetrating oil preference is one that the bearing supply sells but I don't remember the name. I use a lot of WD-40 but primarily for displacing moisture in those little pockets that tend to rust on cars and trucks. There are some places where WD-40 is just right as a lubricant, and other places such as in electro mechanical where it would be too heavy.
 
A 50/50 mix of ATF & DOT 3 brake fluid in a plastic spray bottle works well for loosening rusted nuts & bolts.
 
WD 40 is not really a lubricant, it's a water displacer, but it has it's uses. I have gotten some really good spray lube at Menards, I think it was Liquid Wrench, also they had some that was soy based.
 
the can of WD40 sitting in front of me says "Lubricates moving parts such as hinges ,wheels, rollers, chains, gears. Penetrates to free stuck parts like nuts, bolts, valves, locks". it goes on to say it drives out moisture too. It must be of some value as a lube.
 
WD-40 is good for some stuff. I have started trying it on leather to soften it up. I hate that new straw spout as it sprays a stream on either setting.
For stuff rusted up I have found PB blaster to do better than many others.
 
I'm too cheap for WD-40, so I get the Walmart
version for a lite lubricant. For penetrating
oil, I like 50-50 ATF and Acetone.
 
That's where WD-40 got its name. It was the 40th formula for water dispersal that the U.S. Navy tested. It's not, nor was it ever intended to be, a lubricant. Its original intent was to displace water on ignition systems.

I used to sell Justice Brothers products, and I'd say they're among the best. Doing demos at county fairs, etc., I could take a viscosity tester and make WD-40 look like tap water compared to the equivalent JB-80.
 
Neighbor had a mantis tiller, 2 cycle, that sat for years. She wanted me to get it running. I took carb apart. Carb was all gummed up oil that was left behind as the gas evaporated. I used wd40 as a carb cleaner. It softened up the oil. I used compressed air to clean out the jets. Put it back together and it ran just fine. So wd40 may not be an oil, but it can mix with oil.
 
I've been real happy with KROIL . My buddy is a plumber , he knows rusty stuff better than most folks , and he gave me a can . I'm convinced !
 
George, back when I was still peddling freight, I dropped off a pallet load of gallons of WD40 at a place that worked on small engines. When I asked what they did with all that WD40 the guy told me that every spring they get a lot of mowers, weed-eaters, etc. that won't run, usually because the owners leave old gas in them. He told me that they always dump a cup full of WD40 into the gas tank, suck it into the carb via starter and choke, and let it set over night. He told me that was all 1/3 of them ever need. He said they put a new plug in them and send them home. The WD40 will burn so they don't even worry about flushing it out. gm
 
WD-40 is not really a lube. W stands for water and D stand for displacement. The 40 stand for 40 tries to get it right.
My self the best lube I have found is simple ATF in a pumper oil can. I have tried the others and will stick with ATF it works better and cost a whole lot less
 
correct on WD-40, it is a good cutting oil when drilling !
I like Tri-Flo and it is a little hard to fine.
 
Once WD 40 has done its job of displacing water, it leaves a waxy film behind which seals off any more water. This water proofing film can act as a lubricant, albeit a poor one. In cold temperatures the film becomes hard, too hard to allow fine mechanisms to function. Don't use WD 40 on locks exposed to the cold. CRC makes a good silicon spray lube.
 
WD 40 was a product of missile research, overnight condensation on cold metal missile surfaces would throw their trajectory off when launched . As rightly stated the 40th solution tried seemed to work the best at displacing this water .
 
Not heard of it. I do know back in the day I had more then one distributor cap get blown up by spraying WD-40 in to them to dry them out and not wiping them dry enough
 
There are two products that I liked but can't find anybody that handles it an more. Both of the product came from Cyclo. One was called Break away and the other is Z Lube. They both had a 10 year shelf life.
 
(quoted from post at 14:55:16 01/23/15) Old do you remember a product called 5-5-6 it did a better than WD40 for displacing moisture.

I bet that you are thinking of CRC-556. I used to use that I think before WD-40.
 
(quoted from post at 20:07:42 01/23/15)
(quoted from post at 14:55:16 01/23/15) Old do you remember a product called 5-5-6 it did a better than WD40 for displacing moisture.

I bet that you are thinking of CRC-556. I used to use that I think before WD-40.

CRC-56, used gallons of it int he gun shop back in the 70's and 80's. Had a distinct smell.

For general lube, diesel and whatever oil I got works pretty fair. ATF is a superior cleaner-lube and ATF/Acetone is about the best penatrant you can get. WD 40 still works good for a lot of stuff and you can sometimes get it real cheap. Heck, 3 in 1 oil works pretty good for a lot if stuff. I remember when 3-1 oil was the standard.
 
Well, WD40 is a carb cleaner too. I used it only because I was out of carb cleaner. Guess there is no need for me to buy any more cleaner. When I put the carb back together I was able to use the old diafram too. Thanks for the info.
 
I like twice as good(JB80) for general lube, tapping and drilling but there are better rust cutters out there like GM heat valve lube, some only work to get the fire started in the barrel stove.
 
I use Kroil on most everything that is stuck. Mite be more expensive than other brands, but it works fast and uses less. Have used it for fifteen + yrs.
P B Blaster has worked good for me also. Not much difference in cost. I haven't used WD40 for 25 years or longer. clint
 
I'm going with the Kroil crowd. I've tried a lot of them, but that stuff beats them all. Kinda spendy, and smells funny, but it just works.
 
A year or so ago,I stopped at a little hardware store in a community near me to pick up a can of penetrant. He only had a couple cans and it was pricey, but it would have cost me more to drive to town in the other direction. Got home and began reading the instructions, this stuff FREEZES whatever you need to get loose, instead of just soaking in. Remember, the idea is to break rust loose, if you heat it and let it cool, the expansion and contraction will help break it loose. This stuff just eliminates the heat part and goes straight to the contraction part, by freezing it. I tried it on an EGR valve fitting and it broke it loose rather quickly. it is called, "Next Dimension, Super Rust Breaker" Manufactured by AMREP, INC. OF MARIETTA, GA. Basically it is similar to freon.
 
I use FREE, made by Certified Labs, this stuff works great on rusted and corroded plumbing, bolts, etc.. Only thing is you have to have an account with Certified Labs to get it. I use this stuff at work a lot. This company has lots of specialty lubes, and other products. Their food grade lube is the best I have ever used, a must in healthcare maintenance.
 
Good thing they got WD-40 to work on the 40th try, it'd sound kind of odd hearing grab me that can of WD-39. Lol I wonder if they quit on the 40th try or tried to improove it and pushed tested to the 41st try!?!?

My uncle had an '82 ford diesel pickup that he'd use WD-40 instead of starting fluid if it wouldn't start in the winter, he claimed it worked good and caused less harm to the engine.
 
WD-40 is NEITHER a lube or a penetrant. It is supposed to be used to reduce corrosion (rust). Spray it on gears and sprockets that have to be left outside.
 
(quoted from post at 08:25:52 01/25/15)

My uncle had an '82 ford diesel pickup that he'd use WD-40 instead of starting fluid if it wouldn't start in the winter, he claimed it worked good and caused less harm to the engine.

I've used propane from a small propane torch to help start my 17 hp garden tractor.

Dusty
 
I use WD40 on locks and machining aluminum. JD General Purpose spray lube is pretty good penetrating oil, but I will use atf and acetone, or PB. I have had great success with Kroil, when I can get it. It has even allowed me to get out galled parts
 
(quoted from post at 13:11:13 01/25/15) WD-40 is NEITHER a lube or a penetrant. It is supposed to be used to reduce corrosion (rust). Spray it on gears and sprockets that have to be left outside.
WD-40 is no more of a lube or a penetrant then kerosene. It also prevents rust about the same as kerosene.

Wanna guess what WD-40 is made from?
 
I used to use Conklin Rustbomb and Luboil.Too expencive at almost $10.00/ can.And I'm a Conklin distributor!! I now use PB Blaster. Often on sale at local NAPA for $3-4 can.
 
(quoted from post at 22:43:46 01/25/15)
(quoted from post at 13:11:13 01/25/15) WD-40 is NEITHER a lube or a penetrant. It is supposed to be used to reduce corrosion (rust). Spray it on gears and sprockets that have to be left outside.
WD-40 is no more of a lube or a penetrant then kerosene. It also prevents rust about the same as kerosene.

Wanna guess what WD-40 is made from?

WD-40 can gunk up locks and other close fit moving parts.

I use it only for moisture displacement.
 
(quoted from post at 05:44:58 01/26/15)
(quoted from post at 22:43:46 01/25/15)
(quoted from post at 13:11:13 01/25/15) WD-40 is NEITHER a lube or a penetrant. It is supposed to be used to reduce corrosion (rust). Spray it on gears and sprockets that have to be left outside.
WD-40 is no more of a lube or a penetrant then kerosene. It also prevents rust about the same as kerosene.

Wanna guess what WD-40 is made from?

WD-40 can gunk up locks and other close fit moving parts.

I use it only for moisture displacement.

Ya, kerosene can gunk up locks and close fitting moving parts too. Thats not a coincidence....
 

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