Nat gas water heater getting cooler

redtom · Jan 5, 2015

My showers are needing the faucet set at a hotter setting-the whole family. My water heater is only 2 yrs old and seems to be burning properly. I don't know what setting I had it on but believe I put it on the "normal" avg setting. Everyone is having to turn it up a little. I moved the heater to the next hotter setting and will see what happens. I have good soft city water so I wouldn't think scale was the problem. Any tips?

NEsota · Jan 5, 2015

If the water entering the heater is colder than it was, then what exits the heater will be cooler also. The longer the draw the more pronounced the affect will be.

Jon Hagen · Jan 5, 2015

I just got my first gas water heater, having had electric all my life. I wanted a LP fired model because I read that gas heater recovery is much faster than an electric model. So far I have not been able to run out , even doing laundry, dish washer and long hot shower at the same time.
On the "normal" setting (120 degrees), I was not happy with the water temp compared to my old electric. I bumped the temp up to the next mark(130 degrees) and am happy with it now.
Maybe your gas valve thermostat has weakened a bit over two years, giving cooler water. The fix may be just turning it up a bit as you have done.

Charles in Aus. · Jan 5, 2015

If you have a gas cooker turn on a few jets to high . Leave them burning and turn on the hot tap to the kitchen sink while observing the tips of the flames. If there is an appreciable dip in the height of the flames when the tap is turned on then your gas supply may be at fault . Water sometimes enters gas lines that can cause this but most times the gas company is playing games somewhere.

504 · Jan 5, 2015

Most (not all) city water plants add lime to coat the insides of the pipes(making lead pipes safe)and that is what scales up the inside of the water heaters. More gov in action.

Stephen Newell · Jan 6, 2015

I agree with NEsoat. We always have to turn the heater up during winter to compensate for the ice water going into the heater.

showcrop · Jan 6, 2015

You don't say where you live but of course if your basement is 25 degrees lower in temp now than a few months ago you will loose a lot more heat in transmission to your shower. The heater will hear to the same temp regardless of incoming water temp unless you draw for extended lengths of time. Teenaged daughter?

504, I would love to see where you got that information!!! I bet the last of the lead pipes were pulled out 50 years ago.

ypop · Jan 6, 2015

2 years ago I pulled out a lead pipe in a friends moms house he was getting ready to sell.
Ypop

Stan in Oly, WA · Jan 6, 2015

I don't think I've ever come across an actual lead pipe in a plumbing system. The closest would be the lead and oakum around 4" cast iron drain pipe connections at the soil stack. Was it part of the supply plumbing? Where was the house (what part of the country) and when was it built? That's really interesting.

Stan

johnlobb · Jan 6, 2015

The cooler water entering your heater this time of year could be a factor, but this could be a broken dip tube. The dip tube injects the cold water down to the bottom of the heater so the water is mixed up. When you draw water, you draw from the top so if your dip tube is broken, the water will make a U turn as it enters the tank from the top and go right out the hot water outlet. Turn water off, drain a little and take cold water inlet apart at the top of the tank and lift dip tube out (if you can). If you can lift it out a foot or so, it is good.

Stan in Oly, WA · Jan 6, 2015

In response to johnlobb's information about dip tubes, I would like to add a few words. I once worked maintenance at an apartment complex where several water heater dip tubes failed at about the same time. I found it difficult to find replacement dip tubes but relatively easy to make them myself. By reducing the outside diameter of a few inches of a length of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC electrical conduit, I was able to insert it firmly inside the 3/4" nipple of the cold water inlet. I considered the connection to be secure enough to withstand the heating and cooling of the steel fitting, and none of them failed while I was there. It would be easy enough to secure it mechanically, however.

Stan

ss55 · Jan 6, 2015

That's common in winter. Turn up the heater a notch to compensate, and run the kitchen tap until the water is hot before turning on the dishwasher. Insulation on long hot water pipes will get hotter water out to the farthest taps.

Russ from MN · Jan 6, 2015

The water heater is thermostatic controlled, the water should be the same temperature regardless of the incoming temperature. Do you have a long run of un-insulated copper tubing leading to the point of use? That could cool the water if that area is colder than in the summer. All water lines should be insulated.

JML755 · Jan 6, 2015

(quoted from post at 11:40:19 01/06/15) I don't think I've ever come across an actual lead pipe in a plumbing system. The closest would be the lead and oakum around 4" cast iron drain pipe connections at the soil stack. Was it part of the supply plumbing? Where was the house (what part of the country) and when was it built? That's really interesting.

Stan

Daughter just had a house inspection (last month) for a potential house purchase in Chicago suburb where the certified inspector stated "lead pipe" water supply. I called him and questioned that. He says there are lead supply pipes still all over the area. Next house she looked at to buy in the area did NOT have lead pipes on the water supply. Guess it depends when the pipes were laid.

Dusty MI · Jan 6, 2015

(quoted from post at 12:10:47 01/06/15) In response to johnlobb's information about dip tubes, I would like to add a few words. I once worked maintenance at an apartment complex where several water heater dip tubes failed at about the same time. I found it difficult to find replacement dip tubes but relatively easy to make them myself. By reducing the outside diameter of a few inches of a length of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC electrical conduit, I was able to insert it firmly inside the 3/4" nipple of the cold water inlet. I considered the connection to be secure enough to withstand the heating and cooling of the steel fitting, and none of them failed while I was there. It would be easy enough to secure it mechanically, however.

Stan

A few years ago there was a problem with some water heaters that the dip tubes were failing. I don't remember what year, or what make, but I think there was a recall or the manufacture was providing new dip tubes.

GBCMAN · Jan 6, 2015

Just an idea.
Maybe sediment has built up in the bottom of the heater insulating the heat transfer.
May try draining the tank off at the bottom valve with water hose to see if it helps.

Stan in Oly, WA · Jan 7, 2015

That was my initial response too, but on second thought, colder/winter water entering the tank would make a difference pretty soon during extended use, like a shower. There's got to be some amount of mixing going on just from the pressure of the stream of water that's directed toward the bottom of the tank, even though it enters from a point close to the bottom.

Stan

Dusty MI · Jan 7, 2015

Water from a well stays pretty much the same temperature the year around.

Dusty

jeffcat · Jan 7, 2015

Just had a problem wuth my gas heater. It was getting HOTTER. After you see that episode of myth busters and the water heater blowing up. Check you TP valve by holding a bucket under it and lift the handle. Water and some mud will come out. Then you want to flush your heater. Hook a garden hose to the bottom valve about 2 inches from the heater's bottom. LET HER RIP. Flush it out good. One tip off is your water heater will krackel when you start filling the waher machine and the heater turns on.

JML755 · Jan 9, 2015

My NG 50 gal water heater is 16 yrs old. Water has not been as hot and I've been having to clean out some debris at the faucets that plug up the flow more often lately. Happens on the faucets that use the hot water the most (kitchen, shower). The screens will plug up with bits of white plastic material. The larger pieces have perforations in them. Makes me think it's the liner of the tank that's deteriorating. Has anyone experienced this same thing? At its age, I figure it's better to do it sooner rather than wait to have it fail at the most inopportune time.

Sammy in Kansas · Jan 10, 2015

If it is say just the Tub and shower valve, and it is a newer valve, you may have to adjust it. If it says posi temp and posi pressure, they have the set at factory where you can't not get burnt by hot water and no matter how high you turn up the water heater, you will not get hotter water out of that newer style faucet until you adjust the faucet itself. The small chucks of plastic debris in faucet screen sometimes mean the dip tube (which is the plastic tube inside the water heater on the cold side that carries incoming water down to the burner) is or has failed. They had a recall on them back 20-25 years ago and I have had a couple fail recently. If that happens, you will run out of hot water quicker and the water will not be as hot because it is allowing the cold water that enters the tank mix with the hot water leaving the tank and again not matter how high you turn the heater up, is not going to make much difference. I had one about 6 months ago that had no dip tube left in it, as it had deteriorated until nothing was left and all those plastic bits had either settled in the bottom of tank or flushed out thru faucets. Hope this helps. I try to stay away from those posi temp and pressure faucets if you are on well water. They seem to gum up and not be worth 10 cents after a short while just food for the thought.

Sammy in Kansas · Jan 10, 2015

Sorry, I did not read all posts before I replied and dip tubes have already been discussed.

Nat gas water heater getting cooler

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