I hate chain saws

old

Well-known Member
So I took what should have been my good running chain saw out to fire it up and cut a little fire wood. Well it will start and run a moment or two then die. Try to give it throttle and it dies. Choke will not stay on when you throttle it up. Can not be because it is cold out it is stored in the house so it is warm. Tried the other saw and it will not even try to fire. Guess I'll try new plugs in each saw and see how it goes. Both saws are Poulan brand saws. The one ran good last time I ran it but not today
 
I had a similar problem with a small pruning chainsaw the other week . Ran perfectly last time I used it, only a week prior . Same symptoms , turned out to be a perished fuel line allow it to suck air rather than fuel . $5 worth of silicon fuel line repaired it right away .
 
Old: Why are you using a Poulan chainsaw? If you want a good saw get a Sthil or Husqvarna saw. My saws some times sit for six months and start right up and run good.
Remember the old saying. You get what you pay for.
Brian
 
I have what I had the money to buy at the time as for one that other was given to me by my dad. Does not go to what the saw brand is it goes to the fact that it does not run when it did run just fine.
 
Yes, try new plugs. Try fresh gas mix too. The other guy is correct, the fuel lines don't last long at all with ethanol blend in them.
 
I know what you mean.. I have a Poulan but it was nearing the end of its life so I bought a new Dolmar 51 last spring and I love it, just had to get the starting drill down. My neighbor just after me bought a new Husqvarna and has had a battle with starting it, says it takes him 20 minutes to get it going. That gets really old. He was using 50-1 oil mix and did say with a 32-1 mix it starts easier.
 
I do not use the fuel with alcohol in it in this or any of my 2 cycle engines or the motorcycles either. Had half a tank in the one saw that tries to run and topped it off with fresh mix of gas/oil
 
Old,
If we can agree on only one think it's I hate chainsaws too and all 2 cycles.

A few years ago I decided I'm too old to start chainsaws. Just pulling on the starter rope my right arm and shoulder would hurt for day. So I purchased a easy starting 3500 w Rv genny. I chose Rv model because it puts all it output in one place, 120v and 30 amps. Then after researching electric chainsaws, I discovered WORX makes the best one 4 hp, 18 inch. The only place in town that sells them is Sears under the craftsman's name. Waited for it to go on sale for $100.

I just use chainsaw for cleaning up the place, not cutting firewood. The chainsaw came with an extra chain. The one chain was used up and the other just about. I looked at how much it would cost for 2 chains and a new bar and decided to just go to sears and buy another saw. Then I bought another generator with electric start. Now I have a saw and generator for my two different locations. I smile every time I use the saw and generator. I have one generator on a lawn cart behind the kaw mule. I can move it any place I need it. The other one has wheels on it and I pull it behind a lawn mower.

The heck with all 2 cycles. I'm staying with electric. I love the fact I don't hurt pulling on the starter rope, I don't smell like 2 cycle exhaust and I don't have to wear ear protection. The only thing that hurts is my face from smiling too much while using the electric saw.
 
You must be mistaken. Nobody here has EVER had a problem with ANY piece of power equipment, just as long as they didn't use the dreaded gasohol in it. One drop of ethanol and it's a goner, though.
 
Having trouble with both saws sounds more like fuel problem. Are the plugs wet or dry that will tell you if your getting fuel or not. Besides fuel filter in tank some saws have small screen in carb.Another thing is how old is the fuel. I had only one small Poulan and bought it new and nothing but problems with it. I ended up buying A Stihl MS-170 and only gave about $35.00 more for it and it is 8 years old and has never failed to start.
 
Rich, I bought a Stihl 036AV at a farm auction where the guy had been cutting firewood and selling it...so well used. Tuned it up when I got it home. I have not done a single thing to it since other than sharpen chains. Starts every time. Had it for 15-20 years now.
 
I keep reading how many people have trouble with ethanol. I have used it for over 20 years and haven't had one problem with it in 2 or 4 cycle engines. I even ran E-85 in my 8-n Ford one summer and a few tanks through a B&S lawnmower. E-10 was all my Arctic Cat snowmobile, Stihl chain saw and Stihl weed eater ever saw for years. Lawnmowers start right up after sitting all winter without draining or stabilizer. Raced 600+ hp small block Chevy for 8 years on E-98 troublefree as many as 50 nights a summer. Dirt Late Model
 
Transmission fluid in the gas,,transmission fluid in the bar oiler and transmission fluid on the chain.
 
I have one Sthil that a neighbor gave to me for fixing on his other one. It is the hardest starting saw I ever had. Most times I can't get it going. My son can pull the rope faster than me & some times it starts & sometimes not. Once it is running it will start on the 1st pull but not on a cold start if it sets overnight. I think that is why the neighbor gave it away. He said the dealer couldn't fix it either.
 
Have on old XL12 Homelite that is now junk due to a bad cylinder. Cut lots of fire wood with it over the years but cut one to many
 
My problem is I have a mile long driveway that I need to clean up now that the courts have tied my hands. I have 30 foot right away so I need to make it 30 foot but no way to get power that far out
 
have a poulan here that don't work
wife bought for me as a present
it worked great for about a yr and a half
was cutting up a tree one day filled it up with gas first time it ran great shut it off after about 30 mins cutting not empty yet refilled it (from the same gas can) and it hasn't run since
even the repair centre hasn't been able to fix it
bought a husky 3 yrs ago and it always runs
I'll never buy a poulan anything
 
sorry but poulans are about the biggest POS there is.friend bought one brand new burnt it up 3x and gave up on the 4th.my stihl's will start in any weather,even when poulans run they are gutless.I do hear ya on the price but they are just darn near useless.
 
(quoted from post at 09:19:36 01/10/15) Poulan, Husky and Jonsered are made by the same company!

Very true. I'm seeing a lot of "Huskys" these days that are Poulans I run some older Poulans and they are good saws, but they are also 25 years old or older. The trick to keeping a consumer grade saw running is to treat it like it's gold. Don't abuse it at all. Use fresh, non-ethanol gas (I don't care what anyone says, 6 out of 10 saws WILL have ethanol issues eventually) use decent oil, CLEAN THE DARN THING OFTEN. Clean that air filter, keep it sharp as can be,, clean the bar groove and oil holes. They simply don't have the design life of a better quality saw, but they can be made to last a good long time.

When the saw won't start, change the plug, check the fuel filter and lines and if it still doesn't start check the intake boot. I don't know who came up with the idea of an intake boot, but I don't think too highly of them.
 
I would dump out the fuel, add new and replace the plug first. If that won't work, then dig further. My go to saw is my Mac 1010 from the early 70's, It's heavy, loud and by today's standards slow but man has that thing cut a bunch of wood.
 
My champion RV generator sells around $300 on sale at TSC. $460 at Home depot for the upgraded model with battery, remote electric start, volt meter, frequency meter, and hour meter.

So you could spend $400 on generator and electric chain saw or $400 on a good chainsaw that will some day cause you a problem.

Personally, for $160 more, I really like the upgraded generator.
 
I've got half-a-dozen of those el-cheapo Poulan Pros. They are my "beater" saws that I won't lose sleep over if someone steals them. I've had similar issues but was always able to get them working pretty quick.

One is they come from the factory with the carb set very lean. And if you use a heavy oil mix like the 20 to 1 I use, they run even leaner. You just need to open up the screws. If you do not have that special splined-end wrench - a red crimp-on type wire-connected usually fits over snug enough to grip and turn the screws.

Two - if you've been cutting a lot with a dull chain and making saw "dust" instead of saw "chips" - the fuel screen inside the carb might be plugged. Very common.

In regard to the posted who says Poulan Pro, Husky and Jonsereds are all made by the same company? Yes, but the saws are still totally different. Just like RAM trucks are made by FIAT of Italy yet they are not the same as tiny little Fiats in Italy.
 
I had a Poulan saw and threw it away because because it worked like that. Then I bought a Stilh saw and it works almost as bad however if you just let it sit for a couple of minutes after starting it, it will continue to run.
 
,,I can agree, I run e-85 in CASE gassers in summer,but have learnt a lot I am sure you have too .....how about sharing with us the magic additives you use to keep them runnin
 
denny,
I have a 2004 20 hp kohlor command, 1600 hrs on my terramite. In the summer it would diesel when turned off. It also was producing a little carbon on pistons, which I could see through spark plug hole. It had no carb adjustments. So I experimented using a blend of E85 and E10. Made an E20. That was just enough to lean engine out for summer time use. Now it winter, the engine wants more fuel, so I'm back to E10. So, I adjust carbs using E85 with, knock on wood, no issues. Engine has original diafram like fuel pump. I did replace the 10 year old gas hoses just to play it same. One was getting a little soft, but 10 years is a long time for a gas hose don't you think?
If my jubilee diesels in summer, I give it a little E85 to cool off the engine a little. I think the ethanol haters need something to blame for their problems. I too had a polan pro. It only lasted 3 months, returned it and got my money back. Don't really think that was a fuel issue. If mixed gas can't last 3 months, there is a real problem with the engine carb design.
 
had similar problem with Stihl took it to repair shop down the road, since we didn't have time. Broken fuel line and clogged filter. Said the filter was from the starches (that are dissolved) in ethanol we ran at some point crystalized on the filter. The line could of been from that to had other rubber lines (lawn mower, weed trimmer, tractors) wear though from ethanol. Then later had another problem with it (no start) took it back since they just fixed it, broken spark plug.
 
Both of my Stihls take 12 pulls, full choke, for a cold start, then they'll start the first pull all day long. They did that from day one.
 
My PTO generator (on wheels) works great for portable power almost anywhere. Not that I'd give up my gas Stihl for my electric chainsaw, that I bought to use indoors. The PTO generator allowed me to stay with a plug in welder, and cost considerably less than a portable welder.

I've never used a hydraulic chainsaw, but they look interesting. Assuming you have good hydraulic flow on a tractor.

Lots of ways to avoid small gas engines. I have none but chainsaws, and they're only Stihls.
 
My Dolmar is about 10 years old. As far as I am concerned, that's one of the best saws around. Like you say, they don't have a cheapie primer bulb, so starting has to be learned. Mine started on the first pull last weekend and only quit once - when I ran the first tank through it. I won't rely on any other saw. I have an old Homelite XL, a Craftsman 3.7, and a newer Craftsman. I still go to the Dolmar. Those old metal case saws are so loud!
 
I have worked on small engines for over 50 years.
Don't know about your situation, but people will use a chainsaw or any small engine like it was an electric tool. They use it and store it for several months and expect it to start and run like new.
If you have a $400.00 stihl, Husqvarna, echo, Makita--any of the higher priced saws or you have the lower priced Poulan, Craftsman, Homelite-------none of them will run on BAD FUEL.
Also, a person has to consider that these small engines have tiny carburetors that have passageways that are sometimes small as a single wire from a wire brush.
I have had customers bring in a chainsaw that wouldn't start to the point that they broke the starter rope.
I would remove the carburetor and discover old smelly gas and all kind of crud inside the carburetor and fuel tank.
Clean all this up and the saw would start on the second pull!
Try this next time you use your chainsaw---run the saw dry after emptying the fuel tank and store it. Next time you need it, fill with fresh non ethanol gas and correct oil. Always shake your saw vigorously to build a small amount of pressure and crank. If you plan on using the tool in a few days, weeks, not months, store with fuel tank completely full.
 
OH you didn't know that you can keep gas up to three years. Briggs & Stratton has a additive called Briggs & Stratton Advanced Formula Treatment & Stabilizer which can be used in 2 & 4 cycle engines. The problem is not the design of carb. but the material that the carb is made of. If carb. was made of stainless steel & plastics that will with stand ethanol there would be no big problem..
 
Just curious, how do you combine 10% ethanol gas with 15% ethanol gas and come up with 20% ethanol gas?
 
Hi, I have an orchard so I have had lots o saws. Must say the best are stihl. However the pioneer p42 was exceptional one time a small saw would start easy and idle but not rev upand quit it had a pin hole in fuel line near carb on back side. Hard to find. Good luck! Ed will 0* c this am
 
I had trouble too. In both my saws the fuel hose to pick-up'filter was broken. pick-up lying in the tank. Brittle hose, due to sitting in ethanol ? ?
 
(quoted from post at 16:23:26 01/10/15) OH you didn't know that you can keep gas up to three years. Briggs & Stratton has a additive called Briggs & Stratton Advanced Formula Treatment & Stabilizer which can be used in 2 & 4 cycle engines. The problem is not the design of carb. but the material that the carb is made of. If carb. was made of stainless steel & plastics that will with stand ethanol there would be no big problem..

Yes, I have tried that stabilizer, works no better then StaBil just cost more.
[b:ba51066373]"material that the carb is made of"[/b:ba51066373] You are correct if you are referring to a Communist made Zama carburetor.
Number one selling chainsaw in the world, Stihl, uses China made carburetors and that is 80% of the problems with Stihl
Only carburetor that I have found with deterating aluminum.
Ethanol in gas causes many problems, more so with older fuel components that were not designed for ethanol. If you can't find ethanol free gasoline, StaBil makes a fuel treatment for that.
 
I have two saws now , One is and old Homealite 150 that refuses to die and the new to me husky 455 Rancher that is real close to new that someone threw into my big evergreen in the ft. yard a couple years ago . Found it on the way back to the house while walking the dog. At first at a distance i thought that some kid lost his basket ball . as the dog and i got closes then i could see it was no basket ball . So now the dilemma is what should i do < pull it out from under my tree and just stuff it in my truck and say nothing to nobody or call the cops and tell them ?? Well somebody paid good money for that saw and somebody is probably really upset . So i called the cops , they came out and looked at where is was layen and he aske me if it was Mine ?(now come on if it was mine why would i have called you and why would i leave it out under a tree in the ft. yard next to a state highway )HE then asked ME well how did it get here ?? Like i know, I had looked to see if there were any signs of it maybe falling off the back of a truck and bouncing UP the hill and into the tree , not a mark to be seen . So he takes it and i asked him what IF NOBODY CLAIMS It and no report comes up that it was stolen or lost?? He told me that IF nobody laid clam to it or it was not part of a theft case then if i wanted it it was mine . Well nobody reported it stolen and nobody reported it missing so now it is MINE .
 
I have a couple old mac's also but they have not run in years. I have not messed with them in years due to the fact they are so heavy
 
I have a welder generator but it is pull start also and when it is this cold I'll not try to start it. I also have a Koler Gen set that is a 6500KW but have not tried to start it since 2007 due to how big it is. Been wanting to build a trailer to put them both on and have it set up so the one will start both
 
Thanks for the tips - these saws get used at least twice a week. The local dealer that I bought them from grouses when I mention how they cold start - he wants me to let him tinker with them. Well, he tinkers with them and is real proud that they start on the first pull, but by then he's got the cold start behind him. Tomorrow morning it will still take 12 cranks for a cold start and one crank for subsequent starts. And yes - one of the ropes was showing stress, so I changed it before it failed. Both saws are reliable, but it takes (count 'em) 12 cranks cold. I could win a bet with them, ha.
 
George, have you ever tried opening the throttle wide open immediately after you shut off the ignition (while it's still spinning)? I think I read that suggestion in my Grasshopper/Kohler manual. My Grasshopper engine will diesel if I fail to open the throttle at shut-off. I also use that strategy on one of my tractors that threatens to diesel occasionally. Doesn't work on my old Ford truck because of the accelerator pump, I guess.
 
(quoted from post at 19:09:37 01/10/15) Thanks for the tips - these saws get used at least twice a week. The local dealer that I bought them from grouses when I mention how they cold start - he wants me to let him tinker with them. Well, he tinkers with them and is real proud that they start on the first pull, but by then he's got the cold start behind him. Tomorrow morning it will still take 12 cranks for a cold start and one crank for subsequent starts. And yes - one of the ropes was showing stress, so I changed it before it failed. Both saws are reliable, but it takes (count 'em) 12 cranks cold. I could win a bet with them, ha.

I have advised several people, with similar problem, to shake the saw vigorously before trying to start. Nearly every one said that it worked.
This does two things, it guarantees a thorough mix of fuel and oil, and it builds a small amount of fuel tank pressure to help the tiny carburetor diaphragm to pull fuel from tank.
See for yourself---shake and then observe the pressure buildup when loosening the fuel cap. If it doesn't, you have other problems.
If it has a "primer bulb", it's purpose is to pull fuel to the carburetor and this shaking is probably unnecessary.
 
I've noticed that pressure build-up after shaking my fuel can Jiles. I'm gonna try that - Thanks!
 
I have two Poulan's and two McCullochs. I have found the carburetor diaphragms harden with age and will not respond to the crankcase pressure to pump fuel/meter the gas.

Carburetor kits are available on EBAY for a very reasonable amount, in fact, I keep spare kits on hand.
 
I've run them all, I built a cordwood house and that happens a lot. It sounds like you have a drop of water in your carb it don't take much. Water in chain saw gas is a common occurrence. If it is bad enough drain the gas a put in fresh gas. Also you will need to pull your carb off and clean the water out of the needle jet and vacuum diaphragms. Check the filter and lines for blockage. Water can also block a filter; tapping it on a paper towel may remove water from filter fibers.
 
I am using the same high test gas in 2 other saws & have no trouble starting. I have an old 1965 Pioneer at the deer shack that sets for months at a time with a full tank of E10 mix with no problems. I don't know what kind of fuel lines it has as I never replaced them. Been using E10 in that one since it came out cause I didn't know any better back then. As long as it is working, I will keep using it as the saw owes me nothing. That Sthil starts hard even if you use it every day. Once it is running it starts on one pull & cuts good. If you flip the choke on when running it 4 cycles & runs rich so I know the choke works.
 
I have used Stabil for years but gas always smelt old if left in tanks over 9 months but have one of my older garden tractor thats only used once a year and gas never smells old using The briggs & stratton stabilizer. The Briggs stabilizer has a conditioner in it to stop corrosion.
 
(quoted from post at 00:11:12 01/11/15) I have used Stabil for years but gas always smelt old if left in tanks over 9 months but have one of my older garden tractor thats only used once a year and gas never smells old using The briggs &amp; stratton stabilizer. The Briggs stabilizer has a conditioner in it to stop corrosion.

I guess it depend on where you live and how it is stored. With me, I change the treated fuel out once a year in my generator and then run the old gas in my riding mowers. Never had a bad fuel problem but all my tools are stored inside heated and cooled area.
Seafoam works as good for me as StaBil.
 
These saws are stored in the same room as the computer I use is in so yes climate control room. they both have a little bit of older gas in them topped off with fresh gas that is only maybe 3 week since it was mixed up and is the high $$ stuff
 
All the Stihl saws I have owned have been hard starting when cold. The newer ones are much better at starting than the old ones. After you got the older ones hot they were a bugger to get restarted until they cooled.
Yes I pull gas out of a single can too and I still get water in the gas anyway.. Like I said it takes less than a drop to mess up your day.
Good luck
 
Spent half the day cutting up a large oak with a Husky Rancher 55 18-inch. Best saw I ever had. Put a new Stihl chain on it last week and it starts easy and cuts wood like it's butter. I used to have a McCullough Timber Bear and it cut great too, but was the hardest thing to get started. Needed about 200 pulls.
 
I store these saws in a climate control house so they never get cold unless we loose power
 
IO have a timber bear too---it only runs when it wants to---then won't start--the next day starts right up----but when it's running it cuts anything!
 
I bought this Craftsman 3.7 in the late 70s. Never a problem in all these years. I only use it now on big stuff which isn't very often. It has went through at least two bars and countless chain.
I used it a week or so ago and it had been stored for over seven years dry. Took 12 pulls to crank. Next day two pulls cold.
Ran same as it always has.
Carburetor has never been worked on, as you can see, I take good care of my tools


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Well if I went out and piled all the ones I have up I bet there is 7 plus. I think I have 3 or 4 macs a pioneer a homelite and the polans and also a pair of David Bradley saws. Plus maybe one or 2 more.
 
I have a Poulan that I bought in 1971 that looks
similar, I think they used to make saws for Sears.
I had to put a kit in the carburetor about 20 years
ago. Mine still runs great!
 
(quoted from post at 04:31:59 01/11/15) I have a Poulan that I bought in 1971 that looks
similar, I think they used to make saws for Sears.
I had to put a kit in the carburetor about 20 years
ago. Mine still runs great!

My Craftsman 3.7 was one of the models made by Roper.
 
The old McCulloughs were good saws. Dad bought a new Mccullough Super 55 in 1957. That saw had a 27 inch chipper bar and weighed 27 lbs. and put out 7 HP. and was a gear driven saw. When that saw hooked into a log all you saw was chips flying. About every two years he took it in for a full tune up. I wish I known my dad was going to sell it I would have bought from him.
 
(quoted from post at 11:32:48 01/10/15) Just curious, how do you combine 10% ethanol gas with 15% ethanol gas and come up with 20% ethanol gas?

E85 is 85% ethanol....

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
No matter what brand, chain saws are just like us in one way. Sooner or later they just ain't gonna go. That happened to my old Stihl 028 a few weeks ago. After 30 years of alway's cranking up it didn't. Don't know how the condenser in it lasted that long but it did.
 
That adds up to 12, Why would you have 12 non running saws in your shop? Why not take them to a flea market, sell them "as is" for $20 apiece, and buy one good Stihl?
 
(quoted from post at 10:42:23 01/10/15)

In regard to the posted who says Poulan Pro, Husky and Jonsereds are all made by the same company? Yes, but the saws are still totally different. Just like RAM trucks are made by FIAT of Italy yet they are not the same as tiny little Fiats in Italy.

More like GM/Chevy/Olds/Buick/Pontiac. These days a lot of the consumer grade Huskys and Jreds are Poulan designs, or mostly Poulan. But even 30 years ago a lot of Huskys and Jreds had interchangeable parts. It's not a bad thing necessarily. The problem is someone buying what they think is a "Husky" that will perform and last like a real Husky and they get a Poulan cheapie that doesn't. IMO it does Husky no good to sell them.
 
(quoted from post at 15:33:54 01/10/15)
(quoted from post at 19:09:37 01/10/15) Thanks for the tips - these saws get used at least twice a week. The local dealer that I bought them from grouses when I mention how they cold start - he wants me to let him tinker with them. Well, he tinkers with them and is real proud that they start on the first pull, but by then he's got the cold start behind him. Tomorrow morning it will still take 12 cranks for a cold start and one crank for subsequent starts. And yes - one of the ropes was showing stress, so I changed it before it failed. Both saws are reliable, but it takes (count 'em) 12 cranks cold. I could win a bet with them, ha.

I have advised several people, with similar problem, to shake the saw vigorously before trying to start. Nearly every one said that it worked.
This does two things, it guarantees a thorough mix of fuel and oil, and it builds a small amount of fuel tank pressure to help the tiny carburetor diaphragm to pull fuel from tank.
See for yourself---shake and then observe the pressure buildup when loosening the fuel cap. If it doesn't, you have other problems.
If it has a "primer bulb", it's purpose is to pull fuel to the carburetor and this shaking is probably unnecessary.

Interesting idea.
 
(quoted from post at 03:30:30 01/10/15) sorry but poulans are about the biggest POS there is.friend bought one brand new burnt it up 3x and gave up on the 4th.my stihl's will start in any weather,even when poulans run they are gutless.I do hear ya on the price but they are just darn near useless.

I'm another guy who bought a Poulan years ago at a big box store. Ran ok for a year or 2. Now, can't get it to start for anything. It's sitting in the case in the basement for 5 years now while the Stihl 361 starts every time in winter/summer. Worst issue with it is the coil gave out right after the warranty did and I had to buy another one for $50. Otherwise, it's a "real" saw, not a toy like the Poulan in every sense.
 

Chances are the Poulan either needs a carb kit or fuel lines. Other common issue is the carb boot leaking. None of them are hard fixes or expensive. If you get an older Poulan that's not all plastic, one that is metal like a 3400 or 3700, that's a shole 'nuther animal and is a real saw. Took me a while to figure out not everythign labeled Poulan was like the Walmart Wild Things.
 

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