Chainsaw bar oil

Donno, but talking with my sil's brother who is a tree service employee, he says the base is filtered oil discarded from oil change places, oil, transmission fluid, hydraulic fluid, anything they drain from machinery. Says you can smell it. May be no additives. I have a couple gallons from TSC that is so honey like that is unusable below about 35 degrees.
 
I use Stihl bar oil and have used both summer and winter oil. I have had trouble with the winter oil.The saws will run out of bar oil before fuel. I have found by mixing 50-50 winter and summer bar oil that the saws will run out bar oil at same time they run out fuel. I mix my winter bar oil in summer to get the two to mix.On my saws I can use summer oil down into teens before I switch to the winter mix.
 
I don't know what the bar oil has in it but I do make my own and I use Lucas 10002 Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. I put 1 qt. to 3 qts. of used oil so 1 gallon of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer makes 4 gallons.

The oil I use 10W30 was run in LP gas engines and looks like new. I also use 15w40 diesel marine oil synthetic. I found after an oil change I can let that oil set for several months and the black in the oil settles to the bottom with the synthetic oil.

I get the lucas from amazon prime so after I mix I get 4 gallons of bar and chain oil for $26.24 and get rid of my used engine oil too.

Been doing this for several years. Oil does as good or better than store bought.

I have 2 Dolmar 7900's and set oil screw at max. and use a tank of oil to a tank of gas. So it's tacky but flows well also.
 
You say your putting 1 quart of Lucas to 3 quarts of used oil. One quart of Lucas in bulk cost around $7.87 a quart + what ever your used oil is worth. One gallon Stihl bar oil is only $12.00 and it is clean oil.
 
I buy Lucas stabilizer in 1 gallon jugs for $26.24 per gallon. I use one quart to make one gallon. That makes it $6.56 per gallon for bar and chain oil.

The oil is used engine oil. I don't have to dispose of it now. Cheapest bar and chain oil I can find in this area is $11.00 + - a few cents.

The oil from LP gas engine looks as clean as it did when it was put in. The used synthetic oil set for months and the dark part goes to the bottom and that oil looks clean also. I use what's on top and looks clean.

The original question asked was "Does anyone know what additives are put in the oil to make it tacky?" I stated what I use to make it tacky. That doesn't mean anyone has to try it or use that. That's just what I use and I'm happy with it. If you like the Stihl oil then continue to use it.

As much cutting as I do if this oil was to dirty I'd have had problems with oil pumps or clogging up. I haven't though. The oil I make looks like a lot of what I've used in the past that was store bought.
 
YA but you said you opened your oilers up I have not had to open oilers up to get what I need on bars.I have a Husky,Echo and 4 Stihls rangeing from a MS 170 to a MS 461 and good Stihl bars are not cheap. If this working for you great and not every body can get a hold of used oil out of a LP gas engine.
 
Don't know what they use now a day's but a long time ago it was reprocessed oil with a little molasses or honey put in to make it tacky.
 
I didn't say when I opened oilers up to max. in that post. I opened oilers up to max on both saws the first time I used them new before I started making the bar and chain oil. So both new and used oil comes out the same. I had also owned a Sachs Dolmar 120 super for 27 years before buying the 7900's.I knew what to expect. I ran the oiler on that one the same. Tank of gas to tank of oil.

I use Cannon bars on both saws. A 20 in. H1 Cannon bar runs about $120 ea. when I bought them. They are good quality bars and are rebuild-able if and when they wear down. Have to send them back to factory to rebuild. I saw no difference with the used oil and bought oil on these bars. Both these saws turn 13,500 rpms by the tach. So it takes a good bar to hold up.
I tried some common name bars in the $50 range and they were junk. Cannon will take the rpms and power that these saws have with no problems.
 
Never have seen a Cannon bar around here I will have to look them up. There are a lot of differant brands of bars around here. I use the Stihl bars on the Stihl saws and Oregon on other saws. Oregon is a very common bar around here.
 
Oregon bars have been more wear prone in my experience, but Cannon is new to me too. I once made the mistake of using Stihl winter bar oil with a 44" Oregon bar (oiler at both ends). Major wear, in a hurry.

The saw owner read somewhere that winter oil was better. Apparently not in Virginia. Seems the place he got the winter oil never sold any, except to him. After my experience, no more to him. The bar required a lot of tuning, but now works OK, with standard bar oil. This is with Stihl's largest power head.
 
I ran Sugihara bars for many years. Would still use them but can't find them online or local the last time I looked.

I'm just as pleased with Cannon bars though. Knowing I can send them back for rebuild is worth something too. They are expensive but in the long run they may be cheaper.
http://www.cannonbar.com/
 
I like the bars that the nose wheel can be greased ( not found on the new Stihl bars) I grease them every time I refueled saw and get a lot of life out of those bars. Most companies are getting away from them because most guys never greased them.
 
Completely agree, which is why with a new Stihl bar I drill a hole in the nose to grease it. Works great.

If you can't buy what you want, another choice is to modify it to your needs. My Stihl dealer told me nobody ever greased noses, why Stihl went to "greased for life". Grrrrrrr... Guys like you and me were the losers.

I'm still running an old 039, worn out several bars and a pile of chains (better than Oregons). Refuses to die. Air filters got pricey, I glued felt on instead. My Stihl dealer didn't appreciate it, but works fine. He stocks an aftermarket cheapie. I prefer my felt. He doesn't argue against success.
 
Thanks for the link, I'll in good shape for short bars, will take a look for a 44". Not a saw that's often used, but when you need large...
 
Forgot to ask about "rebuild-able if and when they wear down. Have to send them back to factory to rebuild". What are they doing?

I'm accustomed to filing and adjusting the gap. When the groove's too shallow, the bar is worn out. Something I'm missing?

That 44" Oregon bar developed wire edges so fast I couldn't believe it, but got much better after the first gallon of winter bar oil was gone.

Don't suppose you're expert on rip chains? Every one I've tried didn't cut worth a damn until I changed the filing. Mystery to me, I got my first inkling using my 039 with a cross-cut chain to straight-edge oak rafters. Chips really flew.
 
I noodle some big stuff but that's as close as I get to ripping. LOL I tried one ripping chain for that and found my regular chains cut a bit faster.

The rebuild of those bars will be of course a new nose if needed and the groove the chain runs in will be removed and a new one will replace it. These are hardened too. So it should be a while before replacement is needed. These bars are hand built. I have no idea how they remove the groove but would guess it's ground off. Then built back up and regrooved and then hardened. That's just a guess. I may be totally wrong. What I do know is they are darn good bars.
 
Thanks. My refiling of a rip chain approaches a cross-cut, and increases production easily 3 times. Huge difference, important if ripping 24" wide planks. Much more convenient if I can make a full cut before running out of gas. Trigger gets a spring clamp, I adjust rpm with tension from the boat winch that pulls that big saw to me. Less noise and away from the exhaust fumes.

The guy who owns the saw was shocked I could mill solo. He doesn't have enough shoulder for more than one rope pull. Saw lives here now, along with the assortment of rip chains he bought for it. Eventually I'll run out and buy a good cross-cut chain to see how it works.

Large trees here, I don't sell logs, only lumber and timbers. Someone who "needs" a 40-50' beam is generally prepared to pay. Here's a 500 bd ft bole (Doyle).


mvphoto14782.jpg


I've never needed to replace a bar nose. Groove was always gone before the nose failed. Apparently greasing it worked. As does milling clean logs.
 
What do you use to snake those logs out of the
woods? 50 ft. is a lot of weight. Gotta be one
heck of a saw to handle ripping wood that long.
That's a nice straight one too.
 
(quoted from post at 15:56:44 01/09/15) What do you use to snake those logs out of the
woods? 50 ft. is a lot of weight. Gotta be one
heck of a saw to handle ripping wood that long.
That's a nice straight one too.

My Stihl dealer says the MS 880 only goes with large bars. Need a straight tree to get a long beam. You're right, moving them is interesting.

Meet Bertha, my dream tractor:
mvphoto14819.jpg


Logs too large for her gullet get dragged, never very far. That log I saved for the saw owner. Another long one yielded some nice oak rafters, also interesting to move (and set):



mvphoto14825.jpg
 
RM, $241.55 for a 44" bar? Learned something real interesting when I searched for a WoodlandPro bar, like I've been buying from Bailey's. They're made by Cannon.

I've been using WoodlandPro bar and chains for a few years now, very happy with them. Especially compared to Oregon. Teeth are hard enough that you get serious about what brand file to use.
 
I have used woodland pro chains but never tried the bars. I like the chain too. I started using skiptooth chain and went with Husqvarna chain from Baileys. That was a good move for me. Higher priced though. At that time I didn't see any woodland pro skiptooth. When I need chains again I'll check on that. I hope it'll be a long long time before I need a new bar. That 44 in. bar is a hefty price. But it's a long bar too.

The last 2 Oregon bars I had were junk. Cut maybe 3 cords of fire wood and they had gotten hot and turned dark. The rail wasn't hardened like these Cannon bars. I changed nothing and put the cannon bars on and been running since. Been through about 25 cords since then. Other than wearing a little paint off them they still look like new.

I like that loader you use to move those logs. I figured you had that or a log skidder. I bet you just grin when you get one of those big oaks in the jaws and just lift it up and drive off with it. I made some changes in equipment over the years to help gather and split wood. Glad I did because at my age I wouldn't be able to keep burning wood without it.

Let me know if you try one of those woodland pro bars.
 

Using used motor oil, full of carbon and acids, is NOT a good way to make a bar and chain last very long.
 
Pretty sure I've got a WoodlandPro bar on my saw now, from a Bailey's special for bar and loops a year or few ago. I was so happy with the switch from Oregon to WoodlandPro chain I figured the bars would probably be superior also.

My saw is always serviced and ready to go before I put it away, but I don't do much cutting unless I'm log milling. Which will happen when it warms up a little.

I'm moving a vintage Frick mill here, need a roof over it. Then I'll be hauling around more logs. I prefer low overhead, if I don't use machinery for a month or few, no problem. There's another Cat 944 available in the Valley, cheap. Not sure I need it, but it's tempting.

Like you, no spring chicken, Medicare qualified. Without hydraulics I couldn't manage much. Minimal firewood need though (passive solar house), cold stove at present. I like my PTO screw splitter. Friends are thrilled when they get the call to come haul off the top of a nice tree. Often 2-3 cords.

That big saw's seen its last Oregon bar. A very long time ago in Utah I watched the magic of Will Malloff using 2 powerheads on 1 bar, milling a huge walnut bole. He was using a winch, unlike the photo on the cover of his book.
 
"Without hydraulics I couldn't manage much." I like that, and the same here. I cut all trees in to what ever size logs the loader and grapple will lift, mostly 12 on the large stuff. When I block it up I saw the blocks on the grapple almost in to. Then standing on the ground close the grapple, tilt it down so the small uncut area will be on top once I open the jaws and roll it out a little. Then grab the saw and finish each cut. I stage it in rows to be split. No cutting in the dirt and stand up cutting too. Chains stay sharp much longer and my body holds up much longer too.

I put the spliter on the loader upside down and sit in the seat and split the wood and put it in a pile also( cab,heat and air). From the pile I either go to a 28x56 shed to store or to the car port shed where the wood boiler is and make a pile(with grapple). No stacking wood ever again. Only time I lift the wood with my arms and hands is when it goes in the wood boiler. I call it my handicap old fatman wood spliter. LOL Was splitting this morning before sun up and 19 deg. warm as toast and listening to the radio.
 
RM, you're way beyond me with machinery. Where are the photos? 1500 + sq ft to store firewood? WOW

I don't mind stacking, and never bothered with more than recycled metal roofing to cover. But I'm nowhere near the volume you're dealing with.

Also enjoy getting out in the cold a bit. Much warmer this morning, only went down to 19º last night. My greens survived 2º, under glass. Will harvest some today.
 
Was 8 when I got up this morning. Weatherman missed it by 10 deg. LOL

I've never filled that shed. The shed was for hay storage when I had cattle. I keep the tractor under it too. It's been very handy for firewood and grapple.

I do need to learn to post pictures. Weather gets bad enough that I have to stay inside I may sit down and try to get that done.
 
I dislike "modern view", but that allows you to post photos directly from your computer. So I switch back and forth. I prefer a reply to be directly under the previous post, like with old-fashioned view.

Photo websites work for old-fashioned, but when photobucket announced they owned my photos I wasn't happy. Then I discovered there was no way to delete them from their server. All I could do was shrink them so small as to be pointless. Then use modern view for posting photos.

If you haven't, take a look. It's obvious, just click the appropriate (modern view) box to look for the photo in your computer you want to post.
 
Forget to mention it's polite to use a small file size photo for those of us with crappy internet speeds. My photos are well under 200 kb.
 

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