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Cast iron repair (pics)

B

Brad Buchanan

Member
Hey folks.

I am rebuilding a Ford 4500 TLB and am finishing the rebuild on the 3 cylinder Diesel engine.

This unit has a structural cast iron oil pan and when I got it it had some damage to the cast hard nose and as it turns out to the oil pan where it attaches to the hard nose.

One of the flats where the pan attaches had broken out leaving a jagged surface and I began by grinding the surface flat.

I then cut a piece of mild steel to fit the gap and beveled the replacement part and the pan.

I used the procedure explained by Ecnerwal on the crawlwers......backhoes forum and brought the pan up to a warm temp and welded short beads, peening each as it cooled. When I could hold my hand on the piece I did another bead.

I used 99% nickel rod (most expensive rod I ever burned) and it welded nicely.

I ground the welds and found virtually no porosity.

This is a first for me using this procedure and I hope it holds up.

Comments, opinions?

Brad
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Looks like a good repair. I have had good luck welding case iron with nickel rod. It sounds like you understand the need to preheat and then cool as your welding. You should have no issues with your repair.
 
Brad;

I used exactly the same procedure repairing the cast iron arm that swung the heavy lid into place on a large crucible a few years ago. I didn't use nickel rod, but I would have if I'd had it. What I used was rod that was supposedly made specifically for cast iron repair, but it was suspiciously inexpensive. The repair must have been totally successful, or I'd have heard from the owner for sure. I felt that strict adherence to the procedure of welding a small amount, peening while it cooled, and not welding more until I could put my hand on the previous weld, was what accounted for the successful outcome. I got that procedure from the 1954 book Metals and How to Weld Them by a welding engineer and a metallurgist working for the Lincoln Electric Company. That repair took a long time.

Stan
 
I agree with J

I agree with JD Seller it looks like a great job.
You can tell you did not rush the job.
A lot of people try using the 55% nickel. But you can not beat 99% and good preheating and peening.
Years ago I bought an oven and we heated casting then brazed or welded them up. Put back in the oven and let them cool. Long story short old shop burned.
Always wanted to buy another one. If the good man
enough time I probably will. Still debating whether I want to weld large castings. For your purposes I do not see where you would need an oven
 
I think if it got cracks they would have appeared right after you finished . Since you left each section to cool you have no immediate cracks then it is good to go.Looks like a nice solid repair to me.
 

Brad, looks like a super job of welding. Did you shim the surfaces where the bolster bolts to the pan? It is very important that the stress be even all across the surface or damage such as yours had can occur.
 
Thanks.

I will have to take care when I install the engine
and hard nose.

It looks like the wrong length bolt was used when
the engine was last removed as the casting was
broken out just a few threads in.

Brad
 
Thanks, Doc.

An interesting technique.

Kind of a shame to ruin those beautiful shiny beads by beating them up but the result seems good.

Brad
 
Hey Cas.

I have to make a larger repair on the hard nose and I was thinking that I might use the 99% on the root passes and the 55% over that.

Does that make sense?

Brad
 
Hey Stan.

It took me about 3 hours to run about 5 inches of bead.

Must have taken weeks to repair something that large.

Brad
 
Thanks JD.

I actually learned of this technique here on YT.

Ecnerwal described it on the crawler forum and it seems to have worked out well for me.

Brad
 
I would be a nickel a little leary of doing that Brand.
The 55% seems to shrink pretty fast unless you can keep it hot and let it cool slowly. Like maybe an hour. I know it is significantly cheaper, but I have had not too much success with it.
 
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