What Happens When...

Steve@Advance · Dec 27, 2014

Bubba wires up a 120v RV to 220V? Well, so far I've found the microwave is dead, the 12v converter is dead, the AC/heat wont work, the propane/electric water heater does nothing, the propane/electric refrigerator does nothing.

I opened up the microwave, it's not the fuse. That can be fixed with a trip to Walmart.

The 12v converter, I drilled out the rivets, took a quick look inside. Didn't see any fuses, didn't see or smell anything burned. It's a Parallax 55a, 7300 series. I can get a replacement Parallax for $218 on Ebay, or sub a Power Max 55a for $110. I'm leaning toward the Power Max.

I'm hoping the ac/heat unit and the water heater will come to life once I get the 12v working. Not holding much hope for the refrigerator though, but didn't check it, just no sign of any life. Probably end up replacing it with a small home unit.

All I need to get working is the electric. They don't use the propane system. This will never be used for camping, a struggling young couple is trying to live in it, so every penny counts.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Matt from Blaine Ill · Dec 27, 2014

Wire Bubba to the 220??! Won't help....but maybe make you feel a little better... JK

Sid_GA · Dec 27, 2014

The refrigerator probably requires 12v as well for the control board. Do you have 120v to the converter input? The one in my rv has all the breakers attached. The input cable might have a broken/burned wire as well. Good luck! Sid

farmboy48 · Dec 27, 2014

Steve, I think you have your work cut out for you, you are going to need a good volt/ohm meter. First question is how did he get the 120v plug into the 240v receptacle? Did he change plugs on the cord? If so that has to be corrected. Next question, are the 110v breakers/fuses part of the converter or on a separate panel? If on converter, the new converter may power the 110v circuits ok, with respect to AC/heat, and water heater, if their respective thermostats were not calling for heat when he plugged RV in they may not have taken full 240v thru the elements, but the control circuits to them could be fried. Have you tried the microwave on a good circuit somewhere else? If yes, and no go, then good chance everything else that runs on 120v is probably toast. You could also have some of the wiring in the unit melted as well, do as much visual inspection as you can, and ohm out everything for shorts and opens. I am sure there will be others on here with more ideas, just what I would look for to start.

Dick ND

bobs old iron · Dec 27, 2014

bubba shouldn't be r-ving

Handyman · Dec 27, 2014

On the fridge if you open the outside service panel you can follow the 110 volt cord to a control box, take the cover off and remove the circuit board, you will probably find that it is fried. A replacement will run about $80 to $100, if that doesnt do it then the ammonia heating coil will probably be burnt. everything else usually runs on 12 volt. you may also find a small fuse or circuit breaker on the circuit board.

hoof print · Dec 27, 2014

In my younger (and dumber) days I did the same. Luckily the only damage done was to the power inverter.

howdy1960 · Dec 27, 2014

Guy down the road moved and gave me one them RV 120V to 12V converters. Too bad your not close you could have it. I'm in Oswego county NY.

Billy J Shafer · Dec 28, 2014

I hope the generator was not in line. If it has one.

ypop · Dec 28, 2014

The inverter should have a fuse inside but it may be a soldered in one. fridge should have an automotive type fuse mounted in front at the bottom(bayonet fuse holder)
Like others have said check out all the wiring to make sure no shorts or burnt wires.
Ypop

WGM · Dec 28, 2014

I don't know of anything that can be fixed "with a trip to Walmart".

John,PA · Dec 28, 2014

Steve......the microwave will have a 2 amp "quick blow" fuse in the area of the transformer. Usually the fuse is inline with the power cord.

The clock will start working if the fuse is changed.

Sometimes you will need a tamper proof "torx" screwdriver to remove some of the screws of the metal case.

Walmarts will not have the fuses, though.

Most OEM camper-type refrigerators operate on gas and electric. There is only a small electricat heating element that makes the gas system work, anyhow. Depending on the age of the refrigerator, it may use ammonia solution instead of Freon. Newer stuff has a small compressor instead of the ammonia systems.

John,PA Former factory repair station for DOMETIC(tm) DUOTHERM(tm) and other brands of camping trailer equipment. Got outta the business long ago when tourists staying at local campgrounds would never pay me for repairs.

Service was always a "courtesy" of the camp ground owners.

John,PA · Dec 28, 2014

Hey.....

If you ever come across one of the old SERVEL ammonia household refrigerators that quit working, the usual way for scrapping out is as follows:
REFERENCE: Info. from distributors to dealers. Take the ammonia (sealed steel pipeing)
out of the cabinet.Keep system intact.
Take the system beyond the 12 mile limits and throw in the ocean. TRUE STUFF.

I had the opportunity to be a guest of a local dealer at one of their distributor's seminars.

So, I quit working on ammonia ref. systems a few days after the seminar.

John,PA

Ted in NE-OH · Dec 28, 2014

Have you checked the circuit breakers in the main panel?

smitty38-55 · Jan 1, 2015

Hi, how old is the rv? There are converter/chargers that are built into the fuse/breaker panel and some that are separate units. Modern conv/chargers have 2 12v fuses on one end that will blow, if its all together it should have 2 40 amp fuses in the panel. RV refers have used ammonia ,water and hydrogen gas for eons, the unit needs 12 volts to run gas and 110v for the circuit board. You can check the fuses on the board, it depends on make and model and year. Let me know what year the RV is and the make and model of the refer, Norcold, Dometic. thanks, Tim

What Happens When...

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