Grumpy Tecumseh engine on 32 ton wood splitter

Have a 9hp Tecumseh engine on my splitter, that just will not start if temperature is below 50F. Yeh, I know, I should have split logs back in the hot summer, but would like to understand why it won't start. I have put a new carb on it, and air filter is clean, gas is new, plug is new, and I have a spark. In cold weather, is it that the oil is too thick to spin the engine fast enough, or is it that gas will not vaporize when it is cold?? All my antique tractors start in the cold, even my 6v 8N and 6v 860. Your help and smarts are appreciated, thank you!
 
Was it a snowblower engine and if so - does it
have a real choke? By "real" I mean is it a full
choke plate? Some of those Snow King engines did
not and used a primer in addition when mounted on
the snowblower.
 
Try giving it a squirt of gasoline down the carb throat and see if
it will start. You may have a vacuum leak between the carb
and engine block.
 
David, I don't know how cold it gets where you are, but original Tecumseh and many others recommended straight 30wt. detergent oil for summer use, but for winter use, below 32 degrees use multi-grade oil 10W-30 or 10W-40 as these oils flow better when cold. For extreme cold, below 0F use 5W20. This is from a technical service manual issued by Sears in 1974. Most engines have similar recommendations today. It depends somewhat on how fast you can spin a cold engine over while cranking. If it has electric start generally it will start, but if it has a pull starter, it is hard to spin it fast enough when the oil is the consistency of molasses on a cold, frosty morning.
 
I feel your pain, I've had an 8hp Tecumseh on a log splitter for quite a few years. It's just plain cold blooded. If its cold I use a propane torch to heat the intake manifold and the intake valve area. There's just no way it'll start without some heat.
 
Is this electric start? If so, how are the starter bushings, cables, solenoid, cables, ground connections?

One way to tell if it's a fuel or spark problem would be to give it a shot of ether. If that starts it, there is a fuel problem. If not, it's weak spark.

How does the coil look? Any age cracks in the epoxy?
 
will it start and run fine if you disconnect the
hydraulic pump?
try pouring hot water on the pump and see if it
will start.
 
My two cents is your fuel adjustment. I know the Tecumseh engines I have need the main jet turned out a little in cold weather. I also use only Hi-Test fuel anymore. Only thing that will work. Also need to keep them at almost full choke for 15 or 20 seconds and wean them off a little at a time. They are COLD running engines as you have said. Try the 5w20 synthetic blend oil. Works for me and the inside of the engine is SPOTLESS if you pull the valve cover. My dad has a good size snow blower with the last ones they built. OHV engine with electric start. You SURE need the starter even with the prime bulb. Once it is started...away you go.
 
I'm wondering if the pump is loading the engine enough when it's cold, to keep it from starting.
I'd try a magnetic heater on the pump, or heat lamp. Or try separating pump from motor, and see how it starts then.
 
David: It is a Tecumseh. They are just about all cold blooded other than the snow blower motors. I do not know what they did different on the snow blowers motors to make them start but the regular Tecumseh motors are notorious for hard starting when cold.

Check the compression. I have found a few that the compression relies would not work correctly when cold.

Then valve clearance. Some of the ones I have found wore the valve seats real fast so the valve just barely closed. Mainly the intake valve.

IF all that checks out then squirt of starting fluid in the carb for cold starting.

IF your not in love with the Tecumseh motor replace it with a good Honda and have way fewer issues.
 
I always prime with mixed gas, ( 40-1 chainsaw) the oil
helps seal the rings and they start better. If you
can't get it inside I would put synthetic oil in it.
You don't want to be spitting wood when it's hot out!
 
Dave,
I find in the winter, I have to richen the fuel
mix on my Jubilee and IH C by two full turns on
main jet.

I would first try opening main jet. First mark
where jet is. Try a puff of starter fluid. Find
what works for your engine. Sometimes full choke
and idle position works. Some of my engines full
choke and half speed works. Every engine has an
ideal cold starting position.

I recently replaced Techumseh engines with a
briggs because it was too hard to start. I refuse
to buy anything with a Techumseh because of carb
issues.
 
The drag from the pump will keep my Honda from starting good below 20F or so. I let it sit in front of the reddy heater for 10 minutes of so and it will start good then. Of course you ahve to be able to get it to a reddy heater to do that! :lol:
 
If my tiller doesn't start in a couple pulls, I have to take the plug out & put a little gas in it, leave the choke on half way. Then it starts & keeps running on the 1st pull.
 

Assuming the engine is an electric start with electronic ignition the following may be helpful:

I had a motorcycle years back that refused to start when the battery was weak - I could push start it and it would fire the first time through. The solution was always replace the battery. I rode that bike for 100,000 miles and went through five batteries. I attributed it to the electronic ignition failing to fire when the voltage was low. My current lawn tractor displays the same chacteristic - in cold weather it will not fire - in the summer it always fires the first or second time through. This fall I went to start it and it cranked fine but would not fire. I put the charger on the battery (one year old) and went in for lunch. After lunch it fired the first time through,same as a summer day.
 
Hello davidl1632,

The engine needs to be cranking at 250 R.P.M's before it will start. If voltage is at least 9.6v at the starter, then oil and valves would be the next thing to look at. Put the engine in direct sun an our or 2 before staring it. You'll be surprised how worm will get. It may be all you need to do
,

Guido..
 
And this would be why I won't let a Tecumseh on the place. I
have a couple - they are in the shed setting on a shelf from
when I replaced them with a Briggs or Kohler. They don't run
for anything when they are cold and my patience and
shoulders won't put up with a small engine that's a mess to
start. Ether will be your friend.
 
I would install a primer like they use on snowblowers. My snow blower starts easily as that primer squirts atomized fuel directly in the
cylinder. It also has a choke. My wood splitter has no primer and it's rope start both have Tecumseh engines. Hal
 
the press motors we used only used Tecumseh motors and would start fairly easy IF the choke worked right,or one of those suppose to be good spark plugs hadn't gone south sense it was run yesterday, ie new sparkplug on the outside of the engine would have a perfect spark screw it back in would fire, change plug fire right up,check the valve clearance a lot of small engines have a compression release if valves are out of adjustment it makes for hard starting ie pulling till you get tired or recoil rope handle getting jerked out of your hand,as suggested remove the pump then try it could be the pump or hyd oil that is to heavy wt
 
THANKS GUYS! A load of good ideas here, and I'll
start with magnetic heater on the pump.
If after all your ideas, this engine is still
grumpy, I'll go get a Honda, or Kohler. And for
this I'll need to match up the drive shaft to the
existing pump and get the same HP - right guys??
Am I missing anything here before I drop a few
hundred$$$??
 

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