30# Propane Tanks

Bonnan

Member
Have two old tanks from the '70s. They are, of course, non-refillable. I hear the scrapyards don't take them so what do you guys do with them? Can they be reconditioned and recertified? I'm tired of looking at them.
 
Have you checked with your local distributor? Local dealer will refill basically anything. Could make a portable air tank or fish cooker..............
 
My fil just dumped some on me. He said the waste transfer station would shoot holes in them and then they would go to the recycler. I took the valves out of these and threw them in the brush pile and lit it. No BANG!!!!!! Then I burn a small hole inthem with the sparkle stick
 
Usually it is the valve that is the issue here. From a good LP supplier you should be able to pick up a new OPD valve. Just take out the old POL valve screw in the new one and you are set.

jt
 
"Just take out the old POL valve screw in the new one and you are set."

Just curious, have you ever actually DONE that?
I have done two, the the old valves were %&%$# stuck in the tanks I had them (and the protective cage) MANGLED by the time I got the valves to come loose.

I later talked to the B-I-L (who had worked for a gas supplier for a while) and he said one of the guys there had welded up a custom open square socket that would attach around the square part of the old valve and allow the use of an impact wrench to break it loose.

There must be some sort of commercially-available wrench?
 
Bob;

I've got a couple of full propane tanks which are more than 10 years old but have never been used. If I ever do get around to using them, the issue of refilling might come up (unless I start being more rational and decide to get rid of things that take up space but are never used). Tell me about the protective cage. I wasn't aware that such a thing was necessary, so I'm glad you mentioned it.

Stan
 
they make a special wrench to replace the valves. I think anyone can refill them as long as they are to be used on a cutting torch.
 
<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/Stuff/tank_zps9eb5c71c.jpg">

I bent the protective cage around the valve by trying to hold the tank against the force needed to loosen the valve by sticking a cheater bar through holes in the cage.

That's how tight the valves were stuck in the tanks.

As I said, when I mentioned it to the B-I_L who had worked for a gas supplier, he said that was not unusual, in his experience.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. The word "cage" made me picture the kind of enclosure that's used to work on split rim truck tires. I'm glad to find out it isn't that.

Stan
 
Well said Bob.
I have a pair of 30 lb Aluminum tanks on my camper. When I got it I had to change to the new valve to get them filled. So I went to the big propane outfit and bought a pair of new valves. Seller said "Don't you want me to replace them for you? It's only $8 apiece."
I said, Naw, I can do it."
He said, "Ok, suit yourself."
Went home and fought with them for an hour and brought them back to have it done.
He said, "That was quick." wink wink
He strapped them to a rubber covered I beam that was planted in the concrete. Then took a shop built tool with about a 4' handle on it and had to reef on them to get them loose.
Then put the new ones in.
It was money well spent.
 

Are these similar to the barbecue tanks that Home Depot swap you for?
If so why not swap them out for a new tank. The outfit that supplies HomeDepot will proof the tank and upgrade the valves if needed.
 
one and a half times the size, used with campers, My campers had 40# tanks. And the old style valve on them is what is needed for to replace the acetelene tank on a torch.
 
Retest and new valves and you are about $10.00 away from the price of a new tank.(you price may vary) FWY, 30# tanks need an OPD,33# tanks do not.
 
No but I have it on my mind. Figured it would be tough but if somebody put it in it outta come out.
Thanks for comments.
 
(quoted from post at 14:26:17 12/09/14) My fil just dumped some on me. He said the waste transfer station would shoot holes in them and then they would go to the recycler. I took the valves out of these and threw them in the brush pile and lit it. No BANG!!!!!! Then I burn a small hole inthem with the sparkle stick

There are only two ways to get a propane tank to explode. To get a combustion explosion you need to get air into the tank along with some fuel. It needs to be in the correct proportion fuel to air and you have to have an ignition source. Without an oxidizing agent present there will be no explosion.

The other way is a BLEVE, boiling liquid expanding vapor explosion. That happens when there is liquid fuel in the tank and it is heated faster than the relief valve can exhaust the pressure. The vapor pressure can then build up until the metal ruptures. Even then there is no fire inside the tank. The liquid propane will expand to 270 times the volume of the liquid state so there can be a lot of thrust when it goes and once outside the tank it will mix with air, burn, and expand even more.

I suppose there is an other way. You can watch the movies to see it happen. :lol: :lol:
 
I shoot holes in the tanks with a .22. Then take them to the scrap yard.
Scrap inspector before you unload has looked at them and said that was ok.
 
Just have a welding shop get them refilled. My neighbor that has a welding shop told me they can get them refilled for that purpose. So I send them in with them. I have not converted a tank yet. I also have some 100's for my torch.
 
probably not the smartest way to change valve, BUT, I laid 30# tank on ground, put 6' bridge plank on top of it, drove pickup on bridge plank to hold it from turning, used wrench with cheater pipe, and screwed old valve out.
 
I made a little wood stove from a Propane tank couple months back to use in small shed or as camp cooker. Tank had a rusted base ring so not supposed to be used in retail/refill. Shop had a large tube socket cut to fit and hole for pry bar, valve unscrewed with a little effort. Cut a door opening about 7.5 X7.5 inches, drill holes for hinge mount, cut a hole in top back for a foot long piece of exhaust pip with a bend, a 2.3x2.3 hole at base for a air intake made from 8 inch section of receiver hitch scrap, put a pentagon shaped 6 inch wide piece of plate (more scrap found on shelf) on top valve hole and welded it from inside. Couple pieces flat 1.5 inch x 8 inch stock to seal door better, make a latch and have done a couple bacon and eggs tests, couple burgers so it works. Got to practice wire feed welding, have another tank with valve removed setting as needed next to the little trailer/shed project that needs final roof screws and stove pipe fitting- then off to ice fishing shore maybe. RN
 
I used a ratching tie down strap, and a 4x4, and a large adjustable end wrench.
Got the old valve loose, but have not bought a new valve.

Dusty
 
Bonnan, can't November for sure, most likely a 15" crescent with 4' cheater pipe. doubt there was enough room for a pipe wrench.
 
Here you go for the tool to remove the valve on propane tanks. I my self have used just an 1 1/8" open end wrench and a long bar in the cage to keep it from turning.
Ypop
poke here
 

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