Metal Cutting Circular Saw

Stan in Oly, WA

Well-known Member
I just finished watching Lanse's YouTube video about the corded Milwaukee 8" metal cutting circular saw. His demonstration of it was typically thorough, and the saw looks great. Cutting metal at home is probably the biggest problem I have in any metal fabrication I want to do here. I've got the use of the local Community College welding shop every Saturday morning, but it's rarely convenient to go there at other times during the week---particularly for a small amount of cutting. I only have metal cutting equipment at home (chop saw, cutting wheel on angle grinder, oxy/acetylene torch, Sawzall, etc.) that can be set up and put away the same day. I don't have a place to keep or use a large band saw.

What experience does anyone have with cheaper brands/versions of the Milwaukee saw? I read the reviews on Amazon for one that sold for under $100, and the people who hated it were the ones who sounded the most knowledgeable.

How about a 7-1/4" metal cutting blade on a regular circular saw? Anyone tried that? Lanse's video showed that the Milwaukee had an effective method for catching most of the metal chips that the cutting produced. That would be a very desirable feature, but the best price I have seen on that saw is $260 on eBay. I'd probably be satisfied having to do some sweeping or using a floor magnet if it would save me over $100, if the tool was otherwise high quality. I'm also slightly less inclined to buy a size that's not the industry standard (8" rather than 7-1/4"), even if it's reasonably common because replacement blades can be more expensive and/or more scarce.

Thanks,

Stan
 
I use a steel cutting blade in my circular saw a couple of times a year. As little as I use it, it works great. The down side to it is you need to cover up really well cause the shards are hot and sharp coming off the blade. I will wear welding jacket, tig welding gloves, safety glasses and face sheild with a welding beanie on my head.

Maybe someday I will upgrade to one of the HF versions of the metal cutting saw just to control the shards of steel.
 
A regular wood cutting circular saw isn't really built to withstand cutting metal, at least that has been my experience.
 
AFAIK, the Milwaukee saw is geared to turn slower than a regular circular saw.

The toothed carbide blades don't work well in the high speed saws like common "Skilsaws" and benchtop chop saws. The speed eats them up quickly. Even the ones rated for the higher RPM. I had one of the "Heleta" blades that was supposedly designed for regular chop saws. Two cuts through steel burned it up. Heleta discontinued the blades not long after I bought mine.
 
I use a chop saw blade in a regular Craftsman saw, works for cutting angle iron, some exhaust piping, odd metal plate. Noisy and sparky, wear safety goggles and gloves. For couple small projects a year it works fine, don't have to get torch out and sometimes torch would be a bit difficult to use next to wood. RN
 
When you say regular Craftsman saw, do you mean circular saw or table saw? I'm guessing table saw since chop saw abrasive blades are usually 14" which would come closer to fitting a 10" table saw than a 7-1/4" circular saw. I have a Craftsman circular saw which I use only with a masonry cutting abrasive blade, but 7-1/4" abrasive metal cutting blades are available, too, and I'd use it for that if nothing else was available. I'd go with a cutoff disk on an angle grinder for the things you listed, except maybe not for plate. I've cut 1/4" plate with an angle grinder set up with a cutoff disk, but it's slow and a bit dicey. You only have to turn the disk the slightest amount in the cut to make it shatter and fly apart with considerable force.

Stan
 
For little stuff, I like using a 4 1/2 cutoff blade in right angle grinder. Hardened steel, I use 14 inch chop saw. Softer steel I use a 120 inch x 1 inch metal band saw. It's like a chop saw, clamp metal in place and blade comes down to cut metal. Band saw does the majority of my work.
 
I bought a $100.00 or so metal cutting circular saw at Tractor Supply Co. 5 or 6 years ago not expecting too much. The biggest cut I made so far was a 22' cut splitting an I beam with a 1/2" thick center lengthwise with one blade. I haven't used the supplied spare set of brushes yet or had any other trouble with it. I am sure it will not last as long as a Milwaukee, but I have certainly been pleased with its performance and service so far. Mel
 
A Metabo will cut most anything the average joe will need cut. It works on material from the thinnest sheet metal to cutting an I-beam. A Metabo may take a bit longer, but its versatility and cost to operate pays for itself.
 
I have two hand held circular saws. The older, half worn out one gets all the composition and backward wood blade work.
 
The problem with using a regular wood saw for a trial version of the real deal is the tip speed is too fast for steel and you don have the needed torque. Chips are what takes the heat away from the teeth and when you dont have the torque to keep the saw moving forward the cutting points overheat and the blade goes away fast. Ya, it will work on thin metal but so will a carbide wood blade. For anything over about 1/8" it just does not work. I like my Milwaukee but it is a pretty big $$ hit for occasional usage. The HF 7 1/4" version of the Milwaukee cold saw seems to have dissapeared? but Northern tool has one that last I looked and was less than $150 or if you snoop around Ebay look there.
 
hand held 7 1/4 circular saw. Not the safest but it worked for the angle iron on small trailers and some flat stock, recent propane tank stove project. Harbor Freight abrasive blade- also not the safest. I still have all my fingers and toes, have some holes chewed in gloves though. If worst happens, coffin is ready, home made and in brothers garage for whoever might need it first. RN
 
Speaking of if the worst happens, the worst way I can think of for me to go would be to be killed using a cheap tool, or doing something in an unconventional way to try to save money. Everybody who knows me would think, "It was bound to happen sooner or later." What I'd like would be do succumb to the cold after saving the thirteenth and last child from a capsized boat in an icy river. Then people would say, "I didn't even think he liked kids."

Stan
 
No matter what you try use really good eye protection. Shards will go every which way.

You can put a metal cutting blade in an average circular saw but most likely burn it up if you don't let it cool off frequently.

I purchased a metal cutting circular saw from Harbor Freight about 8 years ago and online threads then indicated it was an item that seemed to come and go there so don't know if it is available now. I have used it to cut 3/16" plate.

They aren't for everything. You have to have room to make your cuts with clearance for the saw to get by. But when new the blade makes a very clean cut...mirror smooth.

Also use a 14" metal circular saw blade in my cut-off saw instead of the abrasive wheel it came with.

None of it lasts forever and I haven't shopped for blades in years since my stuff has set idle. May not be cost effective.

For aluminum only use they just might last forever.
 

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