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Torquing helicoil

C

CNKS

Well-known Member
I need to put a helicoil in a stripped block hole for my tractor engine head. Torque for the Farmall Super M head is 113 ft lbs. Is there going to be a problem here such as the helicoil turning while torqueing? I'm guessing that for only one stud I could get by with 80 lbs?
 
If the helicoil is in good metal it will be stronger than the original thread.

I have never had a problem with them moving while I tightened the bolt or stud, occasional they will unscrew when REMOVING a bolt or stud.
 
If you have the depth, fill the hole with one Heli-Coil all the way to the bottom and add all or part of a second one, leaving a thread and a half below the top of the block. You could lightly coat it with Blue (#248) LocTite before you put it in, cleaning the excess out with a rag with a bit of Brake Cleaner or alcohol/starting fluid on it. A second option is using a KeenSert, a different style of thread insert that has locking pins you drive flush with the surface when done. Never used them myself, but my father-in-law used them at the Union Camp paper mill in equipment that was submerged in water while running and never had problems with them coming out like the Heli-Coils do sometimes. Sorry for the long post, but I'd like to have the money/time/parts value in items I've put the Heli-Coil brand inserts in since I was a teenager with stripped out spark plug holes on motorcycle engines!!
 
Phil,

I had done exactly that in a transmission, aluminum housing.

I did not get both helicoils to align perfectly and the bolt would thread into the first one, but not the second.

Be aware of the perils of doubling the helicoils.

D.
 
gab,

I try to let others know of my "mistakes". I'd rather them learn from what I've done.

Glad to hear your thinking is along those lines.

I will not double a helicoil again, my lesson was learned. First hand.

D.
 
On a M you have the studs in the block and the head slides down over them, so I would use the helicoil and when I put the stud in put some locktite on it and let it set up and when you tork the head down it should never move.

Bob
 
Are you sure the problem is because of doubling, or did the tang not break off cleanly, or possibly screw the second one in a little too far and push the threads of one coil or the other out? Since the Helicoil tap is the same pitch as the bolt threads, just a larger diameter, A bolt should screw right in, even if you leave a gap. I have doubled them 3 or 4 times with no problem.
 
On the other hand, Helicoils are made in different widths, maybe there's one available that's "wide" enough to use up all the threads without stacking a couple of 'em.
 
Sometimes red loctite on the bolt will unscrew the Heli-Coil with the bolt. Placing red or green loctite on the Heli-coil also takes up space in the thread and pushes the heli-coil inward causing friction on the bolt . However if it is a stud you are setting then green loctite everything into and set the stud right away as you will never remove the stud just the nut and cyl head. A good set Heli-Coil should take the same torque as before the repair.
 
Thanks for the information. I stacked a second helicoil over the first, the stud went through both of them. Will finish it when I get the head gasket tomorrow. NAPA only stocks 0.5 or so lengths of helicoils. In fact the container said they are one inch long--they aren't.
 
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