water well & water line

Dusty MI

Well-known Member
We have a 5" well with a submersible pump in the well, pressure switch & tank in the basement.
Will there be any problem with putting a T in the line between the well and basement, to feed an out building?

Thanks,
Dusty
 
No- that"s how ours is set up since we got rid of the pit and put in a submersible. The T feeds the shop hydrant, dairy barn, calf barn, multiple outside waterers. Pressure tank is in the basement.
 
depends how it is set up. if check valve is located at pressure tank the only time water can be obtained from pump line is when the pump is running. I prefer to see a second line run from basement to other uses and valved so that in event of a leak or problem with hydrant, automatic waterers, ect. it can be isolated and water available in house, also if house is valved seperatly you can shut it off when on vacation ect. and not worry about a broken pipe flooding house.
 
Yes. I had to deal with that issue when I put a frost-proof yard-hydrant in back of my barn last month. Deep-well pump-line hooks to a check-valve at the pressure-tank in the house. No way would a tee work anywhere in that line between the pump and tank. I had to tap into the line beyond that check valve and run it back out to the barn.

I guess I could of removed the check-valve and used a T-tap but I prefer to have that redundancy of the check-valve inside the house.
The pump also has a check-valve but I've had a few leak and the system is more reliable with a 2nd valve at the pressure-tank.
 
Yes, I already stated that. And often, as added
insurance - installers add a second check-valve in
the house at the pressure-storage-tank. I would
not install one without the extra check valve if
that pump is way down deep. I've had a few with no
extra check-valve that would drain-back if not
used for awhile.
 
Dusty I had home water pump systems on several properties for over 40 years, only a few years back did I finally hook to city water.

Id agree it depends on if and where you have any check valves in the system. Of course, you don't want it so that T could serve a location ONLY when the pump is running. If there's a check right at the pump (NOT up at tank) looks like a T in the line from pump to tank will work.

Im sure you can figure that out no problem.

Hope to see you sometime this winter

John T
 

I would feed the outbuilding from the basement, with an isolation valve. I like isolation valves, installed another one this morning in our cabin while winterizing. We have our check valve in the basement, with a bypass line around it for winterizing, it allows me to blow all the water back to the well, leaving that line full of air too.
 

There's no check valve in sight in the basement.
I was told many years ago that one should not have 2 check valves in 1 line.
I would rather have the new line come into the basement, but the basement wall is a poured wall, which would have to be bored and then be resealed after the line was installed. It's not leaking now and I want to keep it that way.
If I do add this line it will be only for 1 hydrant at my new shop. I have a hydrant there now but it's a fair weather one, I miss having water there this late fall.

John T. We are leaving for Florida in a couple of weaks.


Dusty
 
Good, if no check valve you ought to be good to go. I like to head south as soon as the last kid exits lol
 
Whoever told you the story about never having
more then one check valve was wrong. At least
as a general statement about well pump
installations.

Subermsible pumps already come with a built-in
check-valve - so there's one.

Just about any pump company will tell you to
install one added check valve for every 200
feet of well depth. The house where I am
right now in northern Michigan has an 800 feet
deep well and four check valves. One in the
pump, and three in the line. According the pump
install manual, it is supposed to have four
added check-valves. So including the one built
into the pump, that would make 5 if done by the
book.
a175285.jpg
 
The well driller didn't put a check valve at tank. The pump is in well. My well driller has put in 2 other wells for me. Fourth generation driller. I trust he knows what he is doing. The hydrant at well produces 12 gallons per minute with a 1/2 hp pump, 29 ft lift.
 
JD,
The answer of 2 check valves is correct, however if one is at the well and fails to open, that means pulling the well. #2 if one is at the pump inside the house fails to hold there's no problem to replace. In other words,what I'm trying to tell you, the more check valves you have spaced in the system, it becomes a monumental problem determining which ones failed and would require pulling the line to determine which one to replace. We have 2 in our line, one at the valve body in the well, and one at the pump inside the house, that keeps the water in the tank from returning to the well, if the other check valve fails in the open position. If the one in the well is stuck open, you lose all the water in the lines from the pump backwards. Like I say more check valves, the greater the problem of isolating the bad one that has failed. My opinion and I'm stuck with it.
Regards,
LOU
 
My well is about 100 feet from the house with the pressure tank under the house. My rental is on a separate line from the well, a tee in the line at the well. There is also a hydrant at the well. It's been working over fifteen years.
 
No problems. Well with a submersible pump with basement or crawl space switch and tank. Both places had hydrant at well teed of line to house, also lines to barn to water livestalk. The first water drawn will flow back from pressure tank untill pressure is low enough to start pump, then if line to hydrant or cattle water is big enough all water from pump will go there before replennishing tank, is not taking all the water it will devide to both places till the tank is full again and switch cuts off pump then water from tank will again reverse to start whole prosses over again. Only check valve is built in as part of pump.
 

Put plenty of valves in ... so you can cut off the farm and still have water in the house.. good for emergency pipe failures.. and also the reverse,, so you can cut off the house for repair and still have farm water for fires and livestock. Lots of livestock problems and I am out of town, s o I put a valve in the ground at every trough so the wife just cuts off the offending area till I return. A happy wife makes a very very happy house. Nothing breaks till I am gone or fixing to leave.
 

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