Chainsaws and Cutting Stumps

thynes

Member
Hi, I need some help dealing with stumps after a tree is cut down. What do you all do about the stumps?

My friend/neighbor next door and I are clearing a trail between the two of us for walking and snowmobiles. Most of the trees are small; the biggest are only about 8".

After felling the trees, I have been trying to cut the stumps as level with the ground as possible, so we won't trip on them or wreck our snowmobiles.

As we all know chainsaws near the ground is never a good combination. Add to that the endless supply of rocks in Mass, and I have dulled a few chains already today. I have the attitude that the chains are cheap, in relative terms, but wonder if there is a better way.

What do you guys use when confronted with a similar situation? The area that I am talking about is very hilly and we don't dare try to bring the bobcat or his backhoe for fear of wrecking the machines or us...

Regards,
Tim in Mass
 
For the amount of you are looking at....go rent a small stump grinder. Simple job and all of them will be at ground level. Stop busting up your saw.
 
I have rented a stump grinder and they work OK but I had a smaller one once and a 20 inch oak stump, it took forever. That's when you need a big one with a 4 foot cutter wheel and a V4 Wisconsin engine! What I have done recently on smaller 8 inch trees is hook a come-a-long on about 10 feet up and to something solid, and put a good strain on it. Then I go to the other side and start digging around the roots and chopping them. With the strain from the come-a-long they chop very easily. I keep pulling and chopping until I have most of the roots on that side, then I pull it in the opposite direction and do the other side. I know you have a lot of rocks in Mass, that will make it harder, and different trees have different root systems.
 
thynes,

I politely disagree with prevailing thoughts of a grinder.

Add up the cost of a few chains, sharpening, time, and you may see why sharpening a few extra chains may be time and money ahead.

If you sharpen your own, prior to professionally done, then you are even further ahead of the game.

D.
 
I have removed many stumps. Stumps and chainsaws don't get along! I have tried stihl carbide tipped chains, and yes they will cut well until you rip the welded carbide tips from the teeth and it will happen.
Just do as some suggested and grind the stumps.
I have even used my Makita Concrete cutting saw equipped with a demolition carbide tipped blade. This worked better then a chain but it is far more dangerous.
 
Not sure of your surroundings, but I've heard of burning them out.

Stand an open ended barrel over the stump, build a fire...
 
I was in the logging business for many years and making roads was one of my jobs.
When making roads for winter use I didn't want to take the stumps out as some times the ground was frozen and if you could get the stump out then there was a hole left.
I had an old axe and a chain saw with me. I even went to auctions and garage sales to look for a usable axe. I used the axe to clean around the stump just a little below the dirt level. Then when you sawed the stump it was cleaner and you could cut quite a few stumps before sharpening. Worked great for roads and trails used in the winter. If you did this in the summer, after you drove on the road the dirt would go down and soon the stump would be sticking out. I'm in NE Minnesota and winter is always prime time for logging.
DWF
 
Either I dig them out with backhoe, or I cut them as close to the ground as possible, them cover with dirt. Termites take about 10 years to get rid of stump. I used to use landscaping timbers and make raised flower beds. The termites eat the junk landscaping timbers faster than the stump. Use lots of dirt and cover them.
 
Depending on where the tree is:

some will get cut about 4' off the ground and just let Mother Nature do her thing.

I'll use a pick axe and clean around the base and cut as low to the ground as I can.

If that's still too high I have cut the bottom out of a 55 gallon drum, set it over the stump and burn the rest. This works on a dead tree. Not so much on a live stump.
 
I use my old chains that are on their last sharpening and cut them as close to the ground as possible. Live trees, I treat with Tordon RTU or glyphosate, depending on species.

Larry
 
What I've done on several trees is cut the stump off about 4" above the ground level, then using the blade tip, segment the stump by making plunge cuts. You want to cut down into the heart of the stump so it will dry out. Then, after it's dried out, I do as others have suggested and put an old oil drum (with the ends removed) over it and burn it out.

:>)
 
(quoted from post at 17:07:32 11/22/14) Hi, I need some help dealing with stumps after a tree is cut down. What do you all do about the stumps?

My friend/neighbor next door and I are clearing a trail between the two of us for walking and snowmobiles. Most of the trees are small; the biggest are only about 8".

After felling the trees, I have been trying to cut the stumps as level with the ground as possible, so we won't trip on them or wreck our snowmobiles.

As we all know chainsaws near the ground is never a good combination. Add to that the endless supply of rocks in Mass, and I have dulled a few chains already today. I have the attitude that the chains are cheap, in relative terms, but wonder if there is a better way.

What do you guys use when confronted with a similar situation? The area that I am talking about is very hilly and we don't dare try to bring the bobcat or his backhoe for fear of wrecking the machines or us...

Regards,
Tim in Mass

Sometimes, your way is the only choice.
Cut them off as close as you can, flat is more important than flush.
A 4-wheeler won't care at all, and snowmobiles need.....snow, so they won't care then either.

At my very steep camp, cutting trails for my 4-wheeler took years. (even a 4-wheeler takes a very brave/crazy rider there.)
On my hands and knees with loppers and my chainsaw...
Better than walking or dragging a deer though...it was worth the work.

ps do what the ancient trail makers did. Meander the trail around the big stuff. My trails look like a drunk snake track, but I get from point A to B
 
Guys, thanks for all the replies. Since I have a chainsaw sharpener, the dull chains are not such a big deal, more of a nuisance, I will continue with what I have been doing.

Burning out the stumps is not practical for me, as I have tried that in the past. It takes wayyyyyy too long, and I have too many stumps.

I do like the idea of cleaning out the ground so I may be able to get the cut a little lower, maybe below grade. I will give that a try.

It is gonna be 52 today! Time to sharpen the chains on the saws and start digging, er I mean cutting...

Regards,
Tim in Mass
 
I've always used a mattock or shovel to get the dirt out of the way and cut as close to ground as I could. On the bigger stumps I then score the visible stump several times so water can lay in there and rot it. A stump grinder would be very hard to get into the places I go.

Little stuff under 2-3" I cut with heavy duty loppers or a sharp mattock. You can get right down below ground level. Lots easier on Mr. Bad Ankles here when I do that. :D
 
I have removed many dozens of stumps up to 20" or so in the last couple of years.

Before felling, I use a hoe to remove the ground, debris, etc. around the tree so that my first (and only) cut will be flush with ground level so that I cannot hit the stump with any of my mowers, all of which are set as close to the ground as possible.

I then work my way around the tree with one of my saws before dragging the tree away to a brush pile.

Yes, doing this is hard on chains and bars but I sharpen my own and keep a couple of old chains for such use.

I usually cut on the back side of the bar in order to angle the cut downward resulting in a stump that is often below ground level. Cutting on the back side of the bar does cause the bar to wear on the end but I use an old bar for such use.

Works great.

Dean
 
Burning stumps does not work well, it chars the wood and takes much longer to rot. you want the wood to be porous so it soaks up moisture.
 
Harbor Freight electric chain saw. Work it to death and then return it. They will take it back, no questions asked.

With coupons and sales, it should be around $40.00.
 
Yesterday, I went past a stump that I had covered with a foot of dirt about 12 years ago. I had planted flowers over it. After a good rain, I now have a sink hole. Termites did there job. Get a load of dirt and cover them up.
 
(quoted from post at 01:46:42 11/24/14) Harbor Freight electric chain saw. Work it to death and then return it. They will take it back, no questions asked.

With coupons and sales, it should be around $40.00.


That's just the wrong thing to do an a lot of levels.
 
What makes you think a snow mobile trail has to be
level? I have miles of go-cart/ 4010 mule trails,
none of which are level. Many stumps and tree roots
are covered. Better have a FIL or bobcat to handle
the dirt you will need. Snow will cover them too. I
have a few hills that are so steep, you can't go up
them in the snow and 4 wheel.
 

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