Flaring tools tubing benders

J. Schwiebert

Well-known Member
O. K. For the last 40+ years my employers have had the flaring tools. Now I need a set. They need to make double flares and in a way be "kid friendly" as I help out with the local ag program and I will be having students use them as well. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance. J.
 
I own and recommend the Ridgid model 345-DL, which runs about 90 bucks. It has one big advantage over the cheaper imported double flare tools: it actually works.
 
(quoted from post at 20:35:05 11/19/14) I own and recommend the Ridgid model 345-DL, which runs about 90 bucks. It has one big advantage over the cheaper imported double flare tools: it actually works.

Imperial Eastman is good also
 
(quoted from post at 03:36:32 11/20/14) O. K. For the last 40+ years my employers have had the flaring tools. Now I need a set. They need to make double flares and in a way be "kid friendly" as I help out with the local ag program and I will be having students use them as well. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance. J.

I have had a Snap-on set for 40 years Its a hit and miss deal and has a learning curve to it... I brought this one its the cats meow..
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=MAS71475&source=froogle&kw=MAS71475

I like the looks of the one one Bob posted it looks like a good set I would like to get my hands on one and try it... I respect his opinion enuff to trust it, for the money and I were look'n I would jump on it....
 
I have a snap on set for standard steel lines and our metric set is from mac tools. Also have a mac bubble flare kit. The blue point bender from snap on is real nice too.
 
I have the Mastercool set that Hobo,NC linked to. It's great. The next best is the Ridgid set. Like MarkB_MI said, it actually works, unlike the KD, MAC, and Snap-On sets. They just push the tubing through the flaring bar when you try to double flare.

On a side note, the Nickel Copper brake line is really easy to work with and doesn't rust out like the steel lines. Little more money than steel, but well worth it.
Ridgid Flaring Tool
 
That set looks identical to the set that is sold by Cornwell Tools. I was going to buy one, their price is $90.00, but the tool truck guy told me that he keeps two on board for warranty replacement since the teeth in the jaws slip. He would not recommend it, guess you got a good set.
 

That Ridgid tool will not do what he is looking to do,,,, the one Bob posted will,,,, ATD Tools 5483 - Master In-Line Flaring Tool Kit... It looks to be kid safe and I have no doubt it will do a nice double flare...


Sorry but I am not gonna let a kid play with my Mastercool tool....
 
heres a pic of or mac sets. standard and metric double flare and the center is the metric bubble flare

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank">
IMG_05821_zpse834669c.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_05821_zpse834669c.jpg"
</a>
 
He wants to make double flares. The ridgid tool
makes double flares. It comes with the adapters,
just doesn't show them in the pictures.
 
(quoted from post at 17:49:33 11/20/14) heres a pic of or mac sets. standard and metric double flare and the center is the metric bubble flare

They will work till you can do better... Replacing brake lines is a time consuming job mostly spent fidding farting around with the flaring tools... I got tired of hit and missing with those like you posted... The ability to flare on the car the first time every time is one ell of a advantage time is money....
 
I agree Hobo, the hydraulic Mastercool set is the way to go. I have the same set with a Mac label. Really saves time and the fingers.
 
Forgot to add, the Mastercool set also makes push connect fuel line ends and the O-ring seal line ends. If you have a need for that, it is great. I replace almost as much fuel line as I do brake line.
 

I have issues using this tool for fuel line (push lock are o-ring)... What type of tubing do you use for fuel line... I believe it has to do with the tubing I have tried to use (brake line)...
 
I have used it on steel. My suppliers don't carry the Cunifer tubing in fuel line sizes. I don't make the O-ring flares often, I usually convert to push connect because I have a slick set from SUR&R that makes nylon fuel line. I have made push connect flares on stainless with this tool. Really have to bear down on the clamp, though.
 
I did not intend my post to cause conflict, I do not express my thoughts well. The Cornwell tool looks the same, same description, that is all I know about the tool, except when I called the tool man two weeks ago he directed me away from it. I bought a $30.00 version from the parts store that I have only managed to scar the outside of the brake line and make unuseable flares with so far. I am trying to repair the brake line end where it meets the rubber hose that goes to the right front wheel without taking it off the truck. The nut was rusted to the line and I broke it before I knew about the rust, no rust anywhere else. I read this post because I am looking for a better tool or idea, I'm working under the truck without proper light, can't remove the line without removing the steering box etc. Enough of my present sorrow, I am sorry for causing you to be upset, it wasn't my intention.
 
I use WeatherHead myself... Most of the cheap ones will do a half arsed single flare but I've yet to see any of them do a double flare on steel. They just push the line through. The WeatherHead I have has a side clamp on the die to clamp the line tight. I'm sure several of the others mentioned already are also good... just stay away from the cheap china stuff.

Rod
 
we do occassional brake line work, so the sets
work fine for us. for production work, no doubt
the mastercool set is the better choice. as he is
teaching his ag students to flare, it may be
better to teach them the simpler style flare tool,
as they will probably be exposed to that one more
often.
 
(quoted from post at 01:43:17 11/21/14) we do occassional brake line work, so the sets
work fine for us. for production work, no doubt
the mastercool set is the better choice. as he is
teaching his ag students to flare, it may be
better to teach them the simpler style flare tool,
as they will probably be exposed to that one more
often.

Same here... I ran into a late model chebby that's loaded with metric bubble flares. It needed all the brakes lines replaced so I went for the kill.. Once I got into it I found out metric and standard brake line is the same size. I could have got away with the old standby snapper set but once I used the mastercool tool the snapper set has not seen the light of day...

On older cars (classics) I just order up the lines pre-made if I have the time... Folks don't realize how long it takes to make/replace all the brake lines on a car it can kill a day...
 
Just so you know, you can get prebent lines for GM trucks
99-2006 for less than $100 from the dealer. I don't even
mess with bending on those trucks anymore, just put on
the GM set. The set includes all but the rear axle lines.
 

I had a right new Toyota last year they ran over something in the road and crushed the brake line that goes from the upper firewall to a junction in front of the left rear tire. The original has more crooks and turns than the law allows&gt; Its about as long as the car and came to me rolled up I would have better off just to make it up myself... Every line for a Cheeby I have called for has been ridiculously priced I will keep your tip in mind maybe that have got cheaper...

I have a Dorman plastic line kit it will get'er done BUT does take some chiffering to set up...
 
If I understand correctly, you would do the job differently? The vehicle is my 1967 F-100 Ford, 37,00 miles, still almost new, just replacing the rubber hoses to the wheels. I am not a mechanic, however I haven't found anyone willing and able to fix my stuff, so that leaves me. I have been practicing on some new tubing on the bench, none of my flares even come close to store bought brake line. So the next plan is to use a new end with a union(?) to attach it to the original line, I'm including a picture of the new line and union, if that is what is called. Not trying to hijack this subject, I'm in enough trouble now for a thoughtless comment.
a174685.jpg
 
Edit,

The post above was supposed to follow the last post from Hobo,NC down at the bottom, can't seem to do anything right today.
 
DO NOT USE THE BRASS COMPRESSION UNION! Brass compression unions are for low pressure and are not legal repair in most states. There are fittings known commercially as Ermeto fittings. They are pressure rated beyond brake pressures and are OK with the DOT. They are commonly called steel compression fittings by counter men. They usually run about $10 for 3/16 here.
 
Thank you!!

I don't want to put dents in the front of my truck by stopping a foot past the stationary object!

I will get the proper parts now that I know what to buy.
 
File and debur the end of the line,,, insert the line set the die up by the instruction. With that type of toll I use nuts instead of the wing nuts supplies and tighten the ell out of it... I go as far as to clamp the holder in a vice to get a better grip on the line,,, Add a drop of "OIL" on the end of the line insert the die and have at it...

Google it , its doable and yes with that tool you will fudge one up every now and again (BTDT)... Its a learning curve when all the stars in the universe line up you can make a flare... That's the issue with those converted to do a double its a hit and miss deal... The one Bob posted for the price looked to be made for the job and dummy prof...

Dump the union... Worst case you can reroute the line But you did not hear that from me...
 
Thank you for your response.

I liked the tool that Bob posted also, it looked
good in the Cornwell catalog, supposed to work in
tight places on the vehicle, until the tool truck
guy cautioned against it.

I would not be able to duplicate all the bends
and routing of the original line and since it is
in perfect condition, except for the end where the
nut rusted solid, I thought I would straighten it
enough to reclaim that half inch and do a new
flare and be done. Of course that was when I
believed I had the ability to accomplish that
simple job.

My best flare has been accomplished using vice
grips next to the 3/16 hole to augment the
clamping force on the brake line, still can't get
things lined up right to get a straight double
flare, it is off center.

Since the truck only has 37,000 miles (I missed a
zero before) and is all original, I hesitate to
change stuff if it is not necessary. I drove the
last 34,000 miles in the 15 years I've had it.
 
Your problem is the Chinese flaring tool in the background of your picture. Those things are a waste of time and money. Give it to somebody you really don't like and go buy a decent tool. Yes, it will cost you a C-note to make one flare, but that's how it goes.

The problem with your current tool is the two bars are clamped at either end with wing nuts. That, combined with cheap metal and too-light construction means the tool has no chance of holding the tubing when you make the second flare. Tools like the Ridgid 345-DL are much heavier and clamp the bars right at the flare. They work.

Or you may want to talk to these guys. A complete set of brake lines for your pickup will run $155; $185 if you want stainless steel.
Inline Tube
 
Couldn't agree more.

Stay away from harbor frieght on this one.

Pay the money for a good one - avoiding the aggravation a cheap one causes is WELL worth the added cost.
 
MarkB
Thanks, I linked to the Ridgid 345-=DL, looks good, I copied the idea with vise grips clamped next to the 3/16 hole, that stopped the sliding. The cheap tool I bought is a high quality, life-time warranty China tool with real nuts instead of wing nuts. ;-) The current problem with the tool is accurate alignment of the yoke with the pipe end. I may try engineering some alignment blocks to cure that problem this afternoon, something to do anyway.

I called the Inline Tube people this morning, they ship them rolled up and according to them they will unroll easily without kinks. Seems like a good back-up plan. I'm hoping to keep this a simple, effective repair for now and do more extensive repair if needed when it warms up again.
 
(quoted from post at 02:22:09 11/22/14) MarkB
Thanks, I linked to the Ridgid 345-=DL, looks good, I copied the idea with vise grips clamped next to the 3/16 hole, that stopped the sliding. The cheap tool I bought is a high quality, life-time warranty China tool with real nuts instead of wing nuts. ;-) The current problem with the tool is accurate alignment of the yoke with the pipe end. I may try engineering some alignment blocks to cure that problem this afternoon, something to do anyway.

I called the Inline Tube people this morning, they ship them rolled up and according to them they will unroll easily without kinks. Seems like a good back-up plan. I'm hoping to keep this a simple, effective repair for now and do more extensive repair if needed when it warms up again.

Yo stop the tube from sliding apply some valve lapping compound
on the tube...
 

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