Rifle scope

Russ from MN · Nov 8, 2014

I used my sons rifle today, a 300 WSM, because I had a chance for some 300 yd shots, and sitting in the stand I noticed something. It seems the scope has moved foreword almost an inch since mounted. I shot 2 shots at a target last week and it was right on, but it must be moving because of recoil. He took it back once before and they replaced the scope and assured him it was OK. I think I can do better, being a retired millwright! I was wondering about putting a spot of Locktite in the bottom saddle of the mount and them setting the tube in it and tightening it down. Just tightening the clamps is not doing it. Any ideas?

Goose · Nov 8, 2014

I've never had that problem, but a spot of Loctite is worth trying. Or even a cloth shim to tighten it a bit more.

Jack345 · Nov 8, 2014

Sounds like defective mounts.Get your mic out & check scope/mounts.The clamp part of mount should not be interchanged front to rear or reversed.They were machined as a unit.some material could be taken off clamps for tighter fit to scope if all else fails.

old · Nov 8, 2014

I have had more then one scope move over the years. I use a spot of silicone gasket sealer on all my scope mounts and since never had one move

Robert Major · Nov 8, 2014

Hi I was looking for something gun related on you tube the other day. There was some video's of professionals from scope manufacturers, showing proper installation of their products.

These guys had tools to set the scope mounts and check alignment of the eyes. if they were out they would then use another tool and grinding compound to lap the mounts. Kind of a similar idea to lapping a valve in a motor.

I kinda wonder if the mounts are a fraction off and not clamping properly to the scope, causing the creep.
Might be worth trying a gunsmith and getting this procedure done if thats whats wrong.
Regards Robert

MarkB_MI · Nov 9, 2014

The only real solution is buy a better mount. My dad had a Herters 7mm Rem Mag that had that problem. Those rifles used a BSA action that was grooved for a mount you could only buy from Herters, and the mount wasn't up to the task. A previous owner had botched the job of drilling and tapping the receiver for a different mount, so that wasn't an option. Adding Loctite between the scope and mount had no effect. In the end we never solved that problem.

Dusty MI · Nov 9, 2014

(quoted from post at 19:36:27 11/08/14) I was wondering about putting a spot of Locktite in the bottom saddle of the mount and them setting the tube in it and tightening it down. Just tightening the clamps is not doing it. Any ideas?

I think it would be easier to get apart later if the locktite was put in the top, clamping part.

Dusty

Kansas Cockshutt · Nov 9, 2014

A gunsmith a long time ago asked me, you use gaskets on your tractor engines, right? I told him yes, between the machined surfaces. He told me to add a piece of electrical tape as a gasket between the scope and the rings and torque properly. Never had any trouble following this advise.

Bret4207 · Nov 9, 2014

Start with the simple stuff, degrease the tube and interior of the rings. Tighten the ring screws and see what happens. In the gun shop that would solve 95% of these problems. A little powered rosin took care of the other 5%. Make sure the mount is screwed down tight if it's not integral too. That's where you use the lock tite.

The bigger the scope, the heavier the recoil, the more likely it is problems will crop up.

thdrduck · Nov 9, 2014

If the scope tube is sliding in the rings...I think you need a better set of rings. A person can usually get by with so so mounts and rings, even scope with a low recoil gun, but magnum rounds on light guns have issues sometimes. That's why it isn't hard to spend $1000 or more a respectable set of optics. Good luck.

teddy52food · Nov 9, 2014

When the screws are tight, there should be a gap in the top & bottom of the clamp.

AlanA · Nov 9, 2014

and torque the screws to spec. over-tighten "farmer tight" and you can crush the scope tube and cause the looseness that you were trying to prevent.

Russ from MN · Nov 9, 2014

I like the tape idea, I had thought of doing something like that. I have used electrical tape in similar situations before, Thanks!

GordoSD · Nov 9, 2014

What brand of rings are they? Get Buhler rings! That's what Roy Weaterby used at first and on every other gun assembled complete in Germany.
The "gap" should not be more than .001.
Reinstall the scope tighten the rings and then see if, using one hand on each end of the scope you can torn it at all Twist HARD. If you can't move it it won't move on its own.

Dean Olson · Nov 9, 2014

Rings are wrong size or it wasn't torqued down correctly.

I use Leupold or Redfield rings and bases. Never had that issue. I do lap the rings in with a lapping tool to make sure I have better than 80% contact between rings and bases.

kansas45 · Nov 10, 2014

I torque the rings to the rail or reciver at 26 in/lb and the scope rings to 16 in/lb. To help things pull down tight and straight, I use the cross torque system, like torquing down a cylinder head. Only tighten a few inch pounds at a time untill the desired torque is reached.

GordoSD · Nov 12, 2014

After mounting a scope I put a TINY dot of fingernail polish at 6 o'clock on the back ring and scope junction.I use a toothpick for a "brush".
Easy to tell if it has been dropped or moved forward, back, or rotated.
Rings to bases get Loctite.

Rifle scope

Russ from MN

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Goose

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Jack345

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old

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Robert Major

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MarkB_MI

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Dusty MI

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Kansas Cockshutt

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Bret4207

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thdrduck

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teddy52food

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AlanA

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Russ from MN

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GordoSD

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Dean Olson

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kansas45

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GordoSD

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