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proper reamer use

B

bfullmer

Member
Looking for the proper way to use a hand reamer, 1" diameter hole in steel an inch thick-using about a ten inch long reamer with a 3/4 square on the end , straight flutes
 
Not sure about a hand reamer. but when using a reamer in a machine, you predrill 1/64 under the reamer size, run slow and use cutting oil.

Trying to do that by hand would be an impossibility for me... But a steady hand and young eyes might get it done. But if there is any way to at least get it in a drill press or use a mag base drill, things will be much better!
 
Hand reaming is tricky. Do you have a solid or expansion type. The expansion will have an undersize pilot and some kind of screw in the end to expand it to the size you need. If it's a straight hand reamer be sure to get it started straight. Keep turning while pushing and don't force it. Never turn it CCW. Use a tap wrench, not a crescent, or make some kind of T-handle. It will only shave a small amount from the hole as it turns.
 
If the reamer does not have a pilot, I would chuck it in some sort of a machine or maybe hold it with an arbor press to make sure it goes in absolutely straight. Then hand turn with plenty of cutting oil while keeping it square to the piece.
 
No clue what your reamer is used for. I had an early VW, 50-60's not sure anymore. I had to replace the king pins and bushings. I had to buy a special reamer for the job. It was long, but only about 1/2-5/8 diameter.

I'm guessing your reamer is for a special use. I have a full set of adjustable reamers. They come in handy for many things. Last time I used them I helped a neighbor replace the U joints in pto. The holes were all beat up, out of shape.
 
Sounds like he's got the normal reamer you'll see in most standard hand-reamer sets, George. I've got a full set up to 1" just like them I got from an old machinist's widow many years ago, in addition to a good number picked up individually. As has been mentioned, use a tap handle, start it straight, go slowly with plenty of lube and don't back it up like you would a tap--only go forward. They're usually slightly tapered on the front and you just use light downward pressure while turning to let the reamer cut its way at its own speed.
 
George, what you got was a line reamer. It's made to pilot through both bushings so the finished holes will be in line for the king pin. Same type reamers are made for engine camshaft bearings and lots of other things.
 
Reamers { I am not expert but read my Goodson catalog ] are not made to remove more than a few thousands of an inch. So if you are trying to make it into a drill bit then you need a larger hole. Steve at Advance gave good advice.
 
I'd agree if you pre-drill in a drill press, leave
the part locked in place and use the press for
reaming too.

Otherwise, if it's a hand reamer and the hole's
already drilled to the proper size, I wouldn't use
the drill press- too hard to get the part lined up
with the reamer accurately. Better to let the
reamer self-align turning it by hand.
 
I had 2 bushings go bad on a 50 year old cement mixer. They were the bushings where on one side is a pulley the other side was the worm like gear that drives the cement barrel.

Each bushing was about 1 inch wide. The ID of bushing about 1/2 inch, the OD about 1 1/2. No pushing was available, so I made one out of two. I held the bushing in place with reamer to use the lathe on them so I could reduce the size of the smaller bushing to press in to the larger bushing. Then do the same to make the proper OD on the larger bushing. I used 2 inch long bushings. After I the set of bushing the size I needed, I split it in to 2 one inch long bushings. Used bushing puller to install in mixer. Then I had to line bore them again to line the hole to put shaft in. It took the better part of a day to do.

Less time with the old VW king pins. After they got pressed in place, I had to ream them to line up.
 
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