Welding rods

Murray2

Member
Hi, For ordinary projects, any difference between 6011 and 6013. There were no 6011 on the shelf, so purchased 6013. Thanks, Murray
 
Those rods are about as different as two rods can get. Everyone who welds needs an AWS chart. This question is a perfect example. Before you make a welded joint you need to know what you are dealing with. Example Hobart Chart 6013 described as mild penetration. 6011 described as deep penetration.
 
A dude came to my shop a while back and wanted to buy a couple of pounds of all purpose welding rod. I said I'm sorry sir, but there's no such thing. If there was they wouldn't make but one kind.He said I'm just looking for something to run on a buzz box.I said, I'm sorry sir but I don't have any AC rods. All I have are DC welders. He said well what kind of a Dam- welding shop is this, you don't have any rod. I said,well a pretty good one I guess, considering, I been here over 35 Years. He went out the door cursing and I have never seen him since. I don't think there has ever been a stick of 6013 in my shop and never will be.
 
The only things I have ever found 6011 was good for were welding through rust, which I never, ever do, and making a root pass, which I never do.

I like 6013 for general use. It's ac or dc, so you can use whatever machine is available, and it lays down nice enough that even I look like I know what I'm doing.

The only other rod the average guy needs is 7014.

JMHO
 

I use 6014 for pretty much all my welding except for cast. No problems, never had anything fall apart yet. Multiple passes and grinding between on the thick stuff. Just various sizes of 6013 and my old ac tombstone.
 
Apparently you don't weld any truck frames ,T-1
steel--AR plate-Chrome Moly tubing, Stainless
Steel,High carbon or tool steels either. A lot of my
work requires preheat, post heat and some stress
relieving. I really don't think your 6013 would cut
it for most of my projects. I don't guess I've
struck and arc with and old tombstone since I was a
teenager and that been over 50 years.
 
Where I used to work we called the 6011 a farmer rod, you can weld right through cow $hit and make it hold. I don't use much 6013 anymore, I like to tack and do root pass wit 6011 and put some 7018 on for strength. I found out at my house I don't have quite enough voltage for 7018, but at the cabin it runs OK, 1/4 mile from substation, 250V!
 
The closest relative to 6011 is 6010. 6010 is a DC reverse polarity-only rod, while 6011 can be used with either AC or DCRP.

One need only make a single pass each with 6011 and 6013 to see they are totally different animals. Anybody can make a "bubble-gum" weld with 6013, but 6011 is fairly tricky to use. 6011 gives very deep penetration, while 6013 gives almost no penetration at all.

For a nice compromise, try 7014. It can be used AC, DCSP or DCRP. It has respectable penetration yet is as easy to use as 6013.
 
6013 works pretty good on clean work in the flat position. Almost impossible to use overhead. In my shop we bought 6011 by the pallet load but usually had some 6013 for building up worn parts but never used for anything that had to be water tight. When I taught welding I used 6013 for the first attempt at welding. Get proficient with 6011 and you are on the road to becoming a welder. One boy took 8 years to become a good welder starting in 1980 and is still in the same shop by another owner and is the top welder. 34 years experience. Took patience.
 
6013's are great to provide you with the illusion that you welded something together.... 6011 has enough penetration to actually get the job done. I use 6011 for dirty steel, burning through mill scale when I don't feel like grinding it all off... and getting deep penetration on nasty old steel that you can't grind all the rust out of. For everything else I use 7018's... Sometimes 7014 if I run out of 7018. There's no need for anyone calling themselves a welder to ever own 6013 for anything.

Rod
 
Basic rod I was taught to use was 6011 for general use and 7014 for flat top beads with better looking finish and bit of build up on cleaned, relieved/angle ground work. And on the farm stuff with lots of dirt the 6011 got used mostly for strength but ugly welds. The 7014 made decent box's, pickup bed framing, corn wagon framing with angle iron and flat stock- let cool and tap off the slag coat and usually a low, flattened bead in the angles, minimal grinding needed and usually just couple coats of paint- but if a vertical bead needed get the 6011 out and upside down tacking was 6011 and extra face cloth for spatter- but trailer springs and half rusted frame good for couple more years with the angle iron patching. I'm getting some practice now with a wire feed, makes nice small beads and easier to get into a few small places- body shop guy is teaching me some techniques, the wirefeed/inert gas rigs are now the 'hot glue guns' of metal working. Is easier than a 1/8" 6011 at 60 amps for light stock, fills some gaps easier too. RN
 
I've used 6013 on straight polarity for sheet metal, oil pans, thin stuff.
I prefer 6010/5p but 6011 is all anyone has in stock anymore.
 
6013 is what I learned on back in 57 and still the only rod I use. Don't do much but it has been able to do anything I want.
 

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