Another question about my fireplace insert

Stan in Oly, WA

Well-known Member
We haven't quite gotten into the heating season here yet, but I'll ask this now because I need to starting working on the problem soon. I may decide to go to the trouble of running a duct to supply outside air for my wood burning fireplace insert. Will a register in the floor in front of the hearth supply adequate air if it is 10" below and 18" horizontally from the face of the stove? The concrete, tiled hearth is that high and that wide (front to back). There is no reasonable possibility of ducting through the hearth considering that the alternative to ductwork is to leave a door or window open a little bit. Ducting through the crawl space is daunting enough to possibly discourage me even if I can terminate at a register in the carpeted floor in front of the hearth.

Stan
 
I believe that most outside air supply's have to deliver the air in the firebox--thats the energy code in many states
 
Thanks. I'm going to go with that unless I get some very persuasive information that it's otherwise locally. That makes it easier for me because it is, for practical purposes, impossible in this situation.

Not only that, but some online research revealed that there is a major difference of opinion about whether outside air which is available---as opposed to delivered (i.e. fan forced)---to the general area of a stove is of any value, anyway.

Stan
 
If you haven't used a fireplace insert in a stone fireplace before I think the major issue is the chimney. Need a pipe within the masonry chimney (otherwise creosote builds up on the masonry because it doesn't get hot enough) and a place for soot to fall without plugging the stove chimney outlet. just my opinion
 
I have had my insert in my masonry fireplace for over 15 years and yes you do get an accumulation of creosote--but i burn the insert real hot with the top damper open about once a week and it burns out the creosote.
 
Code required a chimney liner, so it had that since the day it was installed. It has never performed as well as other wood stoves I've owned. The problem seems to have to do with chimney height, air supply, or something else entirely. On online stove information sites people seem to like this stove, and not mention having the problems with it that I do, so I don't think it's just a case of bad design.

Stan
 
(quoted from post at 07:22:28 10/21/14) Code required a chimney liner, so it had that since the day it was installed. It has never performed as well as other wood stoves I've owned. The problem seems to have to do with chimney height, air supply, or something else entirely. On online stove information sites people seem to like this stove, and not mention having the problems with it that I do, so I don't think it's just a case of bad design.

Stan

Before cutting holes have you done any testing to determine if greater availability of air is going to make a difference? Such as trying it with a window open?
 
Hello Stan in Oly, WA,

I see you now considering mission impossible?
Outside air is what I suggested on your previous post. You are already doing so by opening/cracking the door. Also you need to realize that chimney height will add, not only at how long you can get a good draft going, but will probably REQUIRED more AIR to do so! This is worth what you paid for it! I'm done..............

Guido.
 

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