Question for the welder guys

I have to replace a tooth shank on a back hoe bucket. I have a AC/DC buzz box. Are 7018's okay for this and should I pre-heat the steel before I commence to welding?

Thanks for your input.
 
7018 should work just fine, make sure to clean and bevel the edges and don't be scared to weld it hot and really burn it in there. should take a few good passes to get it on
 
That's how I've always done them. There should be no need to preheat if you have enough power to burn the rod properly.
 
When I was first learning to weld, but thought I already knew a thing or two, I welded a splitting wedge onto the end of 6' length of 1-1/4" square stock to make a root chopper for removing the stumps of shrubs I took out when landscaping. The wedge was in line with the length of square stock so that I could chop by dropping it. I only tapered the end of the square stock slightly before welding it to the blunt end of the wedge. I put a lot of weld on it, but it was fundamentally unsound because there was an unwelded core. It broke while I was trying to pry out a cedar stump with it. I repaired it by grinding the square stock almost to a point and welding it with many passes of 7018. I've used it for many years now with no sign that the weld is any weaker than any other part of the tool. So that's how I'd advise you to do it. And yes, preheat the steel to at least 250 to 300 degrees.

Stan
 
Yes 7018 would be the perfect rod for that , thats a low hydrogen rod with high stencil strength. Thats what we use when building a bucket up and or welding on shanks
 
If you know that the tooth shank he needs to weld is similar in composition to X-80 pipe, and that it will require vertical down welding, then 10018 would be the right choice. I'm not suggesting that you don't know those things---but I didn't. If you recommended the use of 10018 because of its higher tensile strength (which is what many people believe to be the only difference between 7018, 8018, 9018, 10018, 11018, etc.), then I have to tell you that it's not that simple. Each of those rods is designed to weld a specific composition of steel, or a steel which will be used for a specific purpose (i.e. transporting liquid ammonia). If the part in question is plain mild steel, he can't really do any better than to weld it correctly with 7018.

Stan
 
I have had good luck welding broken grader blades on the township grader. I am thinking his steel may be similar. But you are right, they all have their place.
 

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