I can't seem to make the safety valve stop leaking on my water heater. I've tried three now!!! When the WH gets close to shutting of it starts to drip (maybe 1/2 to 1 cup) I'm on a well and pressure gauge is 60 psi off. I've adjusted the temp until I can hold my hand under the full stream of hot water and not get scalded. I really don't believe it's going over temp or over pressure. The last valve was purchased at a plumbing supply house to avoid Chicom product.
- Thread starter atlarge54
- Start date
Tom from Buckeye Lake
Member
Mine does same thing. Also I've replaced valves with no
change. I have pcv pipe to a bucket I dump when needed.
Plumber guy said I need to install a one gallon bladder tank in
the hot water line above the heater.
My question to him "the last tank didn't do it?" It was a vented
thru the roof type natural gas unit. This one is power vented
via pcv thru the basement block wall.
I don't understand pressure is pressure and temp is temp, so
what's the difference?
Hope you get a good answer, me too
change. I have pcv pipe to a bucket I dump when needed.
Plumber guy said I need to install a one gallon bladder tank in
the hot water line above the heater.
My question to him "the last tank didn't do it?" It was a vented
thru the roof type natural gas unit. This one is power vented
via pcv thru the basement block wall.
I don't understand pressure is pressure and temp is temp, so
what's the difference?
Hope you get a good answer, me too
john in la
Well-known Member
Most likely cause is thermal expansion.
On my system the water backs up into the well bladder tank because my check valve is between the tank and well.
If your check valve is between your well tank and the heater OR your bladder is bad in your well tank the water expansion has no where to go.
For those on a city water system a small bladder tank is almost a must now with new city water rules of check valves between house and city system.
On my system the water backs up into the well bladder tank because my check valve is between the tank and well.
If your check valve is between your well tank and the heater OR your bladder is bad in your well tank the water expansion has no where to go.
For those on a city water system a small bladder tank is almost a must now with new city water rules of check valves between house and city system.
Tom from Buckeye Lake
Member
John, you may have nailed my problem. I was on a well system and then public water came available. There IS a check valve where the public water comes into the basement. That could be around the same time I changed tanks.
Phil in MI
Member
Install a good pressure test gauge and thermometer
at the heater. when you install the T&P relief valve
DO NOT WRENCH on the valve body, use a smooth jaw
wrench on the nipple boss only. The test insterments
will indicate if you are getting good valves. DO NOT
EVER attempt to adjust a T&P relief valve.
Phil
Plumber/Pipefitter retired
at the heater. when you install the T&P relief valve
DO NOT WRENCH on the valve body, use a smooth jaw
wrench on the nipple boss only. The test insterments
will indicate if you are getting good valves. DO NOT
EVER attempt to adjust a T&P relief valve.
Phil
Plumber/Pipefitter retired
Phil in MI
Member
Well imagine that, I just looked at the T/P valve on my water heater and the wrench bosses are on the body of the valve. Still be sure not to damage valve body when installing.
Phil
Phil
I just replaced mine last weekend. $20, I also drained the tank and let the sediment run out. You may want to check the system pressure. maybe have a faucet near the WH running to see if the valve closes while system pressure is reduced. Or maybe you can buy an adjustable relief valve, all brass.
john in la
Well-known Member
At 30 years old and not happy with well pump cycling; I am gona guess and say your hot water heater problem is a broken bladder in your well tank.
Alright... the TP valve relieves when it's rated temperature or it's rated pressure is exceeded.
I don't believe you've had THREE bad ones in a row (even IF from the "land of almost right").
Typically, discharge occurs at 150 PSI, or 210º.
You state it is fed from a well, with no check valve ahead of it, so even with thermal expansion, a bit of water should be able to backlow into the cold water pressure tank so pressure doesn't build up in the WH.
But that only works if your conventional pressure tank isn't waterlogged, or, if a bladder tank, it hasn't failed, or needs to be recharged.
Is that a possible issue?
On the other hand, WH thermostats have been known to stick, or an element failed to ground somewhere near the middle will result in uncontrolled heating over times of not much hot water use, since the typical older units use "single line break" thermostats on a 240-Volt circuit.
One of two things is happening... either the pressure is exceeding 150 PSI or the temp is exceeding 210º, you just need to figure out which it is.
Help from WATTS
I don't believe you've had THREE bad ones in a row (even IF from the "land of almost right").
Typically, discharge occurs at 150 PSI, or 210º.
You state it is fed from a well, with no check valve ahead of it, so even with thermal expansion, a bit of water should be able to backlow into the cold water pressure tank so pressure doesn't build up in the WH.
But that only works if your conventional pressure tank isn't waterlogged, or, if a bladder tank, it hasn't failed, or needs to be recharged.
Is that a possible issue?
On the other hand, WH thermostats have been known to stick, or an element failed to ground somewhere near the middle will result in uncontrolled heating over times of not much hot water use, since the typical older units use "single line break" thermostats on a 240-Volt circuit.
One of two things is happening... either the pressure is exceeding 150 PSI or the temp is exceeding 210º, you just need to figure out which it is.
Help from WATTS
Here's 3 things that are prob are wayyy out there; or are they?
Is your pressure gage and pressure switch working?
Frinstance is the nipple corroded full under the switch or is the gage stuck on 60. Have seen both.
Is your pressure switch & gage 2 or 3 stories up stairs? Will have more pressure down there.
A good way to really tell the temp of the HWH, is just after it shuts off, put a thermometer in a cup, and let it run on it for a minute.
Is the tank plumbed properly? Cold in/hot out?
Is there a hidden leak under the insulation that is cooling the thermostat(s) and keeping it on to a higher temp than it's apposed ta?
All these in addition to the check valve scenarios mentioned below.
Is your pressure gage and pressure switch working?
Frinstance is the nipple corroded full under the switch or is the gage stuck on 60. Have seen both.
Is your pressure switch & gage 2 or 3 stories up stairs? Will have more pressure down there.
A good way to really tell the temp of the HWH, is just after it shuts off, put a thermometer in a cup, and let it run on it for a minute.
Is the tank plumbed properly? Cold in/hot out?
Is there a hidden leak under the insulation that is cooling the thermostat(s) and keeping it on to a higher temp than it's apposed ta?
All these in addition to the check valve scenarios mentioned below.
It is probably thermal expansion. I saw a video many years ago shown by an apprentice instructor of a water heater blowing up. It went up through the top of a shed taking off like a rocket and went at least 100 feet into the air. I have seen where someone put a pipe plug into the outlet of a relief valve and luckily the tank did not blow. NEVER do that. You're probably going to have to plumb a small expansion tank into a tee somewhere near the heater, In many places, it is code to do that now. John, Pipefitter
Ben there done that. Replaced thermal valve installed an expansion
tank and everything. Had a bucket under the thermal valve exhaust
pipe and had to empty it every couple of days. Couple months later
had to replace water heater. Leaking tank. Heater was 10 or 11
years old. Good luck.
tank and everything. Had a bucket under the thermal valve exhaust
pipe and had to empty it every couple of days. Couple months later
had to replace water heater. Leaking tank. Heater was 10 or 11
years old. Good luck.
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