Portable Table Saws?

Fawteen

Well-known Member
Location
Downeast Maine
I've been doing a part time handyman gig lately and there have been a couple times an on-site table saw was needed.

I was able to borrow one, but I'm thinking I should have my own.

Surfing indicates prices ranging from $150 to $1000.

I'd like to keep it at or under $300. It won't get used hard or even too often, but it does need to be reasonably accurate and powerful.

Suggestions?
 
I needed something to use at the rental properties, and couldn't justify spending much since I have a big saw at home. Lowe's was discontinuing the Skil 3410, I think I paid $190 for it. It's turned out to be a pretty good saw, once I put a decent blade on it and adjusted it. The Skil currently sold by Lowe's lacks the folding stand of the 3410; don't buy it. HD sells the 3410-02 online for $219.
Skil 3410 02
 
If your getting into that business you will probably soon want a double bevel compound sliding cut off saw with a stand to go with the new table saw with stand. Delta, Makita, Dewalt, Portercable Ryobi, Rigid all make fine tools. I wouldn't go with any cheap noname stuff. Chraftsman was good at one time don't know about now.
 
(quoted from post at 06:59:03 09/26/14) If your getting into that business you will probably soon want a double bevel compound sliding cut off saw with a stand to go with the new table saw with stand. Delta, Makita, Dewalt, Portercable Ryobi, Rigid all make fine tools. I wouldn't go with any cheap noname stuff. Chraftsman was good at one time don't know about now.

I've got an ancient Craftsman bench top table saw. The motor sort of hangs off the back, and is belt drive. I've also got a much newer saw that came from Menards. Can't even remember the name on it right now, but is a cheap saw. Both saws work good, and will get the job done, but that old Craftsman is my "go to" saw. It is much heavier and because of the belt drive, it just runs a whole lot smoother. It is old enough that the name plate says "Craftsman, Sears and Roebuck" I refuse to buy anything made by Craftsman today.
 
Hi Fawteen;

I've gone through three or four of the cheap, no name ones over the decades I've been remodeling houses. Twenty years Makita made a very solid, accurate portable table saw for not very much money. If I'd bought one of those, I'd probably still be using it, but that ship sailed a long time ago. There was a substantial price bump before I could get off the dime and buy one.

The cheap saws have direct drive motors so they make a horrible amount of noise. I'm not sure whether that arrangement allows the blade to wobble a bit, too, but they're not great for precision. The worst thing about any cheap saw, in my opinion, will be the unreliable rip fence. A great rip fence would be adjustable from the near end only (no two hand setting required), precise in relation to the ruler on the front rail, and stay parallel to the blade when it locks. Fences on cheap saws do none of those things. I've gotten used to running the blade up as high as it will go, then adjusting the fence to the furthest front and furthest back teeth. Like any workaround, it's tedious and annoying, but it's doable. It's makes it possible to get by with a cheap saw, particularly if you don't use it a lot. Last summer I made a heavy (about 60 lbs.) stand for it with a steel plate top with a cutout for the sawdust to fall through. I fasten the saw to the stand with c-clamps, and the whole rig is then stable enough that I can rip long boards without pushing the saw over.

Stan
 
Years ago I picked up a 10 inch ryobi 3000. It has a place to attach a router on the right side, left side has a feature to slide wood at an angle past blade. There are adjustable arms to side for side to side, so you can cut wide materials.

I liked the saw so much and couldn't buy a new one, I posted on craigslist to buy another used one for my other property. I found one. I love it. You can easily knock them down and light enough to put in back of turck. My newer one was a ryobi 3100. The top of saw if aluminum and it never rusts like cast iron. It's a well built saw. For a while, sears sold the same saw and called it a crapsman.
 
I've got a Dewalt DW744, say '07 or '08 vintage. I needed one, as I was doing contracting work at the time, and it was warranted by on job alone, no real complaints about it at all, was fine for anything I've had to do with it since. It's got enough power, obviously a sharp blade is key to that, its actually got the original still in it. Portability is good with it.

My only concern is putting a dado stack on it. I believe the blade throat can be changed, but there may be a minor issue with the arbor and or the orientation of the motor to consider, I think I read something about that while researching this sometime back.

I would say its usage matches what you are doing, some of my work was of the same type, repair, small jobs, some new work as well. I've ripped actual 2" pine with it, as well as 1" D4S or finish lumber. I have not tried other blades and any significant hardwood material, it was fine for the floating or what is it, the composite flooring, did one large room with it for a customer whose installer bailed on her.

Locally you do see a lot of various kinds of table saws on CL, older stationary, contractor/portable, and for woodworking equipment, its not a bad place to check, however as common sense, one is wise to look these things over carefully. You'll see one listed, one job or one time use, no longer needed, discounted, if it checks out, price is right, "potentially" a good buy, some list them close to new retail, and in that case I'd just go new. I'm a firm believer in buying new when it comes to these kinds of tools/equipment, because if you are going to spend a significant amount, it just makes sense, but that does not mean there are not good deals used, its wise to check them out, make sure it will cut true, no motor problems or safety issues, its complete that kind of thing, in my very humble opinion LOL !
 
(quoted from post at 09:32:07 09/26/14) Hi Fawteen;

I've gone through three or four of the cheap, no name ones over the decades I've been remodeling houses. Twenty years Makita made a very solid, accurate portable table saw for not very much money. If I'd bought one of those, I'd probably still be using it, but that ship sailed a long time ago. There was a substantial price bump before I could get off the dime and buy one.

The cheap saws have direct drive motors so they make a horrible amount of noise. I'm not sure whether that arrangement allows the blade to wobble a bit, too, but they're not great for precision. The worst thing about any cheap saw, in my opinion, will be the unreliable rip fence. A great rip fence would be adjustable from the near end only (no two hand setting required), precise in relation to the ruler on the front rail, and stay parallel to the blade when it locks. Fences on cheap saws do none of those things. I've gotten used to running the blade up as high as it will go, then adjusting the fence to the furthest front and furthest back teeth. Like any workaround, it's tedious and annoying, but it's doable. It's makes it possible to get by with a cheap saw, particularly if you don't use it a lot. Last summer I made a heavy (about 60 lbs.) stand for it with a steel plate top with a cutout for the sawdust to fall through. I fasten the saw to the stand with c-clamps, and the whole rig is then stable enough that I can rip long boards without pushing the saw over.

Stan

Stan, the fence on my old Craftsman is simply worn out. It WILL stay in place once it is locked down, but adjusting it for the proper width desired takes a bit fiddling with a tape measure. It is still my favorite saw.
 
I've worn out 4 or 5 portable saws in the last 25 years. Like battery operated drills they're an expendable tool.
I currently have a Ridgid. Probably a little more dough than you were looking to spend but it has served me pretty well.
The one thing I would suggest is to buy one without the stand.
Those stands are stupid, cheap, clunky things that just add to the cost, size and weight of the saw.
I never even assembled the last couple of stands.
Just threw them in the scrap pile.
A lot of the time I can do my sawing on the tailgate of my pu. Right height and you're not lifting it in and out so much.
If I have to set it up I set it on sawhorses.
I used mine this morning. Had to slice up a whole sheet of 1/4" plywood into 1 1/2" furring strips.
 
Fawteen;

Billy NY's tips about buying from craigslist made me think about something I found interesting, even if it has no particular relevance to your situation. Radial arm saws can be had for next to nothing on craigslist. They were great saws, and real workhorses on many jobsites years ago, but they were rendered virtually obsolete by cheap portable miter saws and compound miter saws. A radial arm saw isn't a table saw, but it will do many of the things a table saw will do, as well as a few that a table saw can't do. The real challenge would be to figure out a way to make one portable enough for one person to manage---the tend to run from heavy to very heavy.

Stan
 
Thanks for all the input, folks!

I'd about decided I couldn't really justify one, but the reminder to check on Craigslist netted me a lead on a decent-looking Ryobi for $100 and relatively nearby.

Swapping emails now.

I have a sliding compound miter saw, and I set it up on a piece of plywood screwed to a couple folding sawhorses. I'll likely do the same with the table saw if I wind up getting it.
 
How's it going, Fawteen -

I got a Rigid 10" table saw to use several years ago. My shop saw was just too heavy to drag around to handyman jobs. It's built several large sets of kitchen and family room cabinets, a couple of dozen decks and anything I need in the shop. I'm well satisfied with it and it's light enough to move easily.

Watch the stand - I picked up a Hitachi 10" saw that wants to tip over when you cut - gotta build a decent stand for it rather than the one they built for it.

YEARS ago when Craftsman tools were good they were built by Emerson Electric. Emerson Electric now builds Rigid brand tools. I still have an old Craftsman router and a couple of Craftsman belt sanders over 30 years old that still work good.
Naw - I'm not impressed with their new junk!
 
I've got an ancient Craftsman bench top table saw. The motor sort of hangs off the back, and is belt drive. I've also got a much newer saw that came from Menards. Can't even remember the name on it right now, but is a cheap saw. Both saws work good, and will get the job done, but that old Craftsman is my "go to" saw. It is much heavier and because of the belt drive, it just runs a whole lot smoother. It is old enough that the name plate says "Craftsman, Sears and Roebuck" I refuse to buy anything made by Craftsman today.

I have a Delta saw that was made in 1938. Place I worked cleaned out a storage building and we found the saw. The motor was burnt out and the fence was missing. I had a perfect motor for the saw (It was belt drive saw) and I called Delta and ordered a manual, a parts list, and a new fence. This thing is so old that to cut a bevel you tilt the table.

My first table saw was an Ohio Forge brand from Home Depot back in 1986. It was a re-branded Sears-Craftsman. Very similar to a Ryobi or Rigid saw. I still have it and my brother uses it and the Delta saw all the time.
The Delta saw is NOT portable at all.

I have an old Dewalt radial arm saw. That thing is dangerous. I much prefer a sliding compound miter saw. Wish I had bought one much sooner.

Pooh Bear
 
(quoted from post at 18:33:19 09/26/14)
I've got an ancient Craftsman bench top table saw. The motor sort of hangs off the back, and is belt drive. I've also got a much newer saw that came from Menards. Can't even remember the name on it right now, but is a cheap saw. Both saws work good, and will get the job done, but that old Craftsman is my "go to" saw. It is much heavier and because of the belt drive, it just runs a whole lot smoother. It is old enough that the name plate says "Craftsman, Sears and Roebuck" I refuse to buy anything made by Craftsman today.

I have a Delta saw that was made in 1938. Place I worked cleaned out a storage building and we found the saw. The motor was burnt out and the fence was missing. I had a perfect motor for the saw (It was belt drive saw) and I called Delta and ordered a manual, a parts list, and a new fence. This thing is so old that to cut a bevel you tilt the table.

My first table saw was an Ohio Forge brand from Home Depot back in 1986. It was a re-branded Sears-Craftsman. Very similar to a Ryobi or Rigid saw. I still have it and my brother uses it and the Delta saw all the time.
The Delta saw is NOT portable at all.

I have an old Dewalt radial arm saw. That thing is dangerous. I much prefer a sliding compound miter saw. Wish I had bought one much sooner.

Pooh Bear

My old Craftsman is of the size that puts it in the "bench top" category. Previous owner built a stand out of smaller angle iron, and put a pair of caster wheels on to make it "portable". The saw itself is made of steel and cast iron, coupled with the old, one horsepower electric motor that hangs off the back, makes the whole thing quite heavy and awkward. I can roll it into the storage area up against the shop wall, and roll it back out for use, but it just doesn't ever get moved much further than that. It would be a serious effort to load it up and take it to a job site.
 
Before they started making the portable saws I bought a lightweight Jet for about $300, had it for about 20 years still works great, outcuts other saws larger or similar that I have used. Not really a portable but I can load it by myself.
 
I bought a skill saw 15 years ago at Menards that is the best saw I have. I use it to rip 2X6 into 1 inch lumber and also used it to put in all new windows in my house it has its on stand and weighs maybe 50lbs. It's just handy as heck I don't know what I would do with out it.
 

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