cutting metal roofing

Mal(Pa)

Member
Hi guys, I haven't posted here in a while but I was cutting metal sheets for my carport sides. The problem is when I use mt 4 1/2 inch grinder with metal cutting blade, the blade wears down to nothing in about 24 inches or less. Is there something not real expensive I can use that cut well? I tried tin snips and that fights me once I get my hand into the sharp tin. Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks, Mal
 
A lotta fellas use a standard "rip saw". The blade is installed backwards which cuts right thru the metal.

John,PA
 
Don't forget your hearing protection. cutting with a skilsaw with a blade in backwards is the way to go, but its a screamer. gobble
 
Thanks for the quick replies,guys.I used the rip saw method like John said. Loud like one of you said but it worked out really well. My wife doesn't walk well so no help there in holding it up while using the snips.I cut 60 feet length wise in no time. Thanks all. Mal
 
There is a blade special for use in a skil type saw. Looks like a plywood blade but it is specific for cutting metal roofing. Make sure a use plenty of oil. Also as others have said use hearing protection.

jt
 
What brand blades are you using? What thickness? Some brands are better than others, and as always, you get what you pay for.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
I built a 24 x 36 and cut all the metal with my circular saw. Bought a Steel blade from Harber Freight.. WOrked rather well.. Just wear eye, head, arm protection..
 
Guys, I just used an old skill saw blade.Looks like half rip and half crosscut from back in the early 70's from when I built my house. Didn't even look like I hurt it. Better steel? Mal
 
Those angle grinder blades are not made for cutting with the edge. That is why they do not last when you tried it that way. But I do it too.
SDE
 
For snips, put sheet on the ground, start cut then put one foot on sheet beside cut, grab sheet other side of the cut with spare hand and pull up firmly as you you cut. This keeps the cut edges away from both your hands. Otherwise skillsaw and use good earmuffs. Both ways work.
 
If I still remembered how to build it I would tell you. Many many years ago I was told how to build a metal cutting jig that used a piece of wire to cut the metal but been to many decades ago to remember how to build it
 
What I can tell you is that it had 2 pieces of wood or iron and you laid the sheet metal on them and the wire then was pulled down between them. That where put together so that there was a very small gap between then and the wire cut it and it did it pretty easy
 
On my roofing job I used a table saw. An old plywood blade turned so that it ran backwards worked great. Have eye protection on everyone within 5-10 yards.
 
That works great but you need quality snips. Buy from an industrial supply house. A pair of Wiss inlaid snips will be as good as you can get.

To cut to width use a straight edge and score deeply with an utility knife. Then fold over and when you think it not going to break it will snap apart.

Once an apprentice sheet metal worker
 
I've found that the direction that you cut in makes a huge difference to how long the wheel lasts on a grinder . Pulling backwards on the grinder is much harder on the wheel and wears it down quickly . I follow the line moving forwards up to the line , less pressure on the wheel this way and longer life . Try to use a good quality thin kerf wheel , as said by others you get what you pay for .
 
Just buy a metal cutting blade for youe 7-1/4" circle saw and lay your steel panals with the ribs down, and cut them. That blade will cut more sheets than you will ever need to cut. Be sure you use full eye protection, as hot chips will fly in every direction.
Loren
 
I have a pair of air shears, they work great cutting the flats, they do work cutting across the ribs as well, but it is a little harder. The air shears are much, much quieter, and I have cut allot of steel with them, they still work good.
 
Circ saw is a noisy pain. If we are talking about todays common metal roofing, when cutting long ways, use a utility knife and straight edge if you need it to score the metal a few times. Then fold on the score carefully and it should break. No heat or flying chips. if cutting at an angle or crossways on the tin just use big tin snips or "bulldog" style snips.
 
Thanks to all for all the helpful replies. This is a great forum and a lot of info from all you knowledgeable people out there is priceless. Mal
 
Old, 40 years ago we cut tin for a barn roof - -used 4 pieces of 2x4, used 2 clamps to clamp 2-2x4s on top and bottom of tin roof sheet , then clamped the other 2-2x4s a 1/4 inch over from the first clamp.
Then lay the roof sheet on ground. Used a good clean piece of baling wire (or high tensile mechanics wire), run wire under the roof sheet between the 2-clamped 2x4s, anchor the "back side" to a cross piece between the 2 clamped 2x4 sets. On the near side, tie the end of the wire to a piece of broom handle or round dowell rod for a handle. Stand on the 2x4s clamp, pull up on the Tee-handle of the wire, and watch it zip-cut the roof sheet. It worked on pretty heavy gage roofing.
Sorry for no photos of sketches - - Best Wishes!
John
 
I installed six steel roofs in the past two years. Tried many ways to cut. Hands down -best way is a circular-saw blade made for metal cutting. I've done the last two roofs with a Diablo 48 tooth, 7 1/4" metal-cutting blade from Home Depot. Hasn't gotten dull, and doesn't scorch or melt the paint at the cuts. I tried stone blades and they were a waste of time and money. Made a mess and wore down fast.
 
Get a quailty set of tin snips. Midwest IIRC get the ones where your hand stays above the work. A lh pair and a rh pair will do it all. I cut all the liner panels for the inside of my 36x48 building by hand.
 
That's what I have also done, too. We've used a 30d ring shank pole barn nail to score the metal with rather than the utility knife, though. Leather gloves a must . . .

Cross cut we would either use a big pair a Malco snips or a metal blade having flipped the metal upside down as the metal sparks burn the paint and also leave rust spots. Eventually bought a shear made to fit the Granite City strong panel metal we always used.
 
I have two Diablo metal blades. One thin curf for roofing, and a HD that I use to cut up the 3/16" sheet metal stock with my rt-angle framing saw. They don't heat up and warp like a common blades do.
Loren
 
Get a NIBBLER. Several brands available. Mine is Makita. Best dang thing ever. No loud noise, flying metal or the like. They are about $100.00. YOU WILL NOT REGRET IT!
 
I use a circular saw with a metal cutting corborundom blade. I've cut 34 sheets or R-Panel this week this way. It's loud but I wear ear muffs when I cut it.
 
Yeah, but if you can put up with a little noise for a few minutes, the backwards skil saw blade technique is a quick easy solution for a one-time use, and costs $0.
 
I suggest you talk to your metal supplier as to what is recommended to cut your steel. When I built my 30' x 72' shed a shearing action was recommended. I don't really understand it but the shearing action helps coat the cut end and minimize cut end rusting. Any saw method leaves a lot of exposed metal to oxidize. I used the right and left had hand shears mentioned below a lot and a Milwaukee electric shear. The electric shear worked great going lengthwise on the panel. I struggled going across the ribs with the electric shear so used my hand shears. Oh, when the hand shears get dull just get a new set, but they last a long time.

Of course if you are using aluminum panels then everything I said doesn't matter, use a saw if you want.

Paul
 

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